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Posted

Hi:

I'm interested in making footwear with durable outsoles (Vibram, plantation crepe, old tires, et al), and I have some questions.

Right now, I'm making a pair of moccasins for my daughter, and I'd like to attach a crepe sole to the bottom so she can wear them out of the house. I also have a commission for some medieval turnshoes, again with a crepe sole. I haven't found much about working with crepe; I get the sense that it's just a sheet of latex that you cut to shape and slap on with barge cement. I've found sources selling sheets of crepe, but no precut soles. Any ideas about where to find precut soles, or should I just get busy with the scissors? And is it really that easy; just cut 'em out and slap 'em on? Or is there a trick to achieving a finished look?

Same idea for lugged soles like Vibram or old tire: just glue in place, or get fancy with a turned welt and some saddle-stitching to make it look clean?

Should I just throw up my hands, let a professional handle it, and endure the pitying looks?:wacko:

Thanks in advance,

Vince

  • Moderator
Posted

For leather, rubber and crepe (usually called EVA), use Master All purpose cement. I don't know about Barge anymore since they changed formula. Master both sides, wait till tacky, put them together, press or hammer.

For Polyurethane (PU) you need a primer (PUR, Green Bottle). Ditto for Thermal Plastic Rubber (TR), but the primer is Regahol (Yellow Bottle). Applications are different for PU and TR. PUR and Regahol are Renia products.

Once the EVA is on, the sander is good for shaping.

Vibram soles are a PIA, you need multiple coats of glue, but you need to clean both surfaces with thinner before application, it is way too complicated, don't use Vibram.

Art

Hi:

I'm interested in making footwear with durable outsoles (Vibram, plantation crepe, old tires, et al), and I have some questions.

Right now, I'm making a pair of moccasins for my daughter, and I'd like to attach a crepe sole to the bottom so she can wear them out of the house. I also have a commission for some medieval turnshoes, again with a crepe sole. I haven't found much about working with crepe; I get the sense that it's just a sheet of latex that you cut to shape and slap on with barge cement. I've found sources selling sheets of crepe, but no precut soles. Any ideas about where to find precut soles, or should I just get busy with the scissors? And is it really that easy; just cut 'em out and slap 'em on? Or is there a trick to achieving a finished look?

Same idea for lugged soles like Vibram or old tire: just glue in place, or get fancy with a turned welt and some saddle-stitching to make it look clean?

Should I just throw up my hands, let a professional handle it, and endure the pitying looks?:wacko:

Thanks in advance,

Vince

  • Members
Posted

For leather, rubber and crepe (usually called EVA), use Master All purpose cement. I don't know about Barge anymore since they changed formula. Master both sides, wait till tacky, put them together, press or hammer.

For Polyurethane (PU) you need a primer (PUR, Green Bottle). Ditto for Thermal Plastic Rubber (TR), but the primer is Regahol (Yellow Bottle). Applications are different for PU and TR. PUR and Regahol are Renia products.

Once the EVA is on, the sander is good for shaping.

Vibram soles are a PIA, you need multiple coats of glue, but you need to clean both surfaces with thinner before application, it is way too complicated, don't use Vibram.

Art

http://www.ahh.biz/catagories/fabric.htm

I have used the rhinotech for moc soles and it is awesome. Using a rotary cutter helps with the cutting. sanding gives a good final touch. most precuts are done with a die and press. If you are not just using a foot tracing for a pattern and are just doing a generic size, cheap flip flops work great. Old navy has them for 2.50 a pair if you buy 2 right now. Another sole choice for thicker soles is using conveyor belts. I know a company that will sell used belts pretty cheap ( 2.00 a square foot.) They have a rough rubber outside with a canvas inner that is the cat's meow. Another alternative to the tire sole is the Harbor freight antifatique mats. They aren't too thick are good anti slip and come in a pack of 24 inch squares x 4 pieces for 10 bucks. Barge cement will hold them fine with a little roughing.

  • Members
Posted

Thanks for the tips. Moxgrove, can you give me a lead on that company that sells the used conveyor belts? And I hadn't even considered nonslip mats. Sodhoppers Custom Moccasins sells what they call a Goop Sole (barge cement mixed with ground-up rubber tires); has anybody used that?

In any case, it looks like a durable sole is pretty easy stuff. Thanks again!

  • Members
Posted

Kevin@atlasbelt.com He is really helpful. I have heard the Goop soles are good as long as you don't use them on pavement or shale. It wears through, but is easy to fix. I pewrsonally haven't used it but a bowhunting buddy does.

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted

http://www.ahh.biz/c...ries/fabric.htm

I have used the rhinotech for moc soles and it is awesome. Using a rotary cutter helps with the cutting. sanding gives a good final touch. most precuts are done with a die and press. If you are not just using a foot tracing for a pattern and are just doing a generic size, cheap flip flops work great. Old navy has them for 2.50 a pair if you buy 2 right now. Another sole choice for thicker soles is using conveyor belts. I know a company that will sell used belts pretty cheap ( 2.00 a square foot.) They have a rough rubber outside with a canvas inner that is the cat's meow. Another alternative to the tire sole is the Harbor freight antifatique mats. They aren't too thick are good anti slip and come in a pack of 24 inch squares x 4 pieces for 10 bucks. Barge cement will hold them fine with a little roughing.

Would love to see the final product ... have any pictures?

..... also, would love to see pictures from anybody else that has been able to make any of these ideas in this post work.

Thanks for the topic!!

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