What tools should I get to start off with?

[AndersHeintz]

Hola one and all!

Im new to these forums as well as leatherwork! I have made some bridles etc in the past, but was mainly experiemental. Now I have decided to make a few more leather items, namely a breast collar and a new headstall, an old buckaroo style bridle, and I would like to make them 'right' so to speak, as I will use these items everyday and they need to be functional and safe.

I have purchased a decent side of veg. tanned tooling leather but have yet to get the tools of the trade. Working as a cowboy, money is not always plentiful and I need to spend as little as possible for the basic tools. I guess Im not really cheap, just don't want or need to spend a ton of money on all the top of the line tools etc.

So basically, my question is what tools do I need to get to get the job done? I really dont need a lot of stamps etc, but I would like to play with some basketweave (to match my saddle) and some Carlos borders.

I am a member of other craft type forums as I am a sculptor of historical miniatures as well, and I understand that my question is pretty broad, so if I need to try to narrow it down more please let me know!

Thanks in advance!

Edited May 21, 2008 by AndersHeintz

[Rawhide]

Welcome to the forum.

My suggestion would be to cater your purchase to what you're going to make. Since you're making collars, you'll probably need a strap cutter (if you're making just a couple, you can get by with a razor knife). Probably a rotary punch for your holes. Stitching awl, thread and maybe rivets and rivet setter.

That's a start, I'm sure you'll get some chimes on this from more experience makers. I haven't made any collars.

Good luck.

Marlon

[Randy Cornelius]

I think that a good round knife would be high on my list. Learn how to use one and sharpen one and it will be the best investment you will make. Marlon hit it with the rest of the list, sewing tools and materials and rivits & setters and hole punches. I personally hate the rotary type and prefer the drive punches. Also oblong hole punches for the buckle holes.

Good luck

Randy

[AndersHeintz]

Thanks for the replies guys!

That was pretty much what I was thinking too, get the stuff needed for these projects, and then expand as other projects come up.

I have rivets (copper) and a setter allready, also have a strap cutter which is very handy around the barn! I also have various knifes that will work great for cutting leather, as well as some poly board and some marble (from one of Saddam's palaces no less!) to use for stamping.

As for a round knife, I know what it is, but really that is about it! What is it used for? Skiving leather? Cutting patterns?

The only place where I know to get tools is from Tandy Leather Factory, and I have their latest catalog. Unfortunately the closest location is in El Paso, which is about 3 hours from here, so mail order is the only option at this time.

Here is a list of a few things I been thinking about getting, please let me know what is needed and what is not.

Waxed Nylon Thread

Needles

Craftool 4 in 1 Awl Set

Craftool Spacer Set

Craftool Saddle Makers Groover

Craftool Scratch Awl

Mini Punch Set

Craftool Oblong Punch 1/2"

Craftool Keen Edge Beveler or Craftool Edge Beveler Size 2, not sure which? Whats the difference?

Craftool Nylon Edge Slicker

Swivel Knife, not sure which

Poly Medium Mallet

Some stamps for Carlos + Basket Weave

Basically, I want a groove for the stiching, evenly spaced stitches, maybe a simple line border, slick burnished edges and a nice oily finish! Sounds so simple

Im also not quite sure what to use for finishing the leather. I would prefer not to stain or dye them as I ride a lot of light palamino's, and don't want them covered in dye. But I'd like a nice rich oiled finish on the end product. Basically I know how I want it to look, but don't know how to do it!

Thanks again guys! Im anxious to get everything ordered and get my feet wet!

Edited May 21, 2008 by AndersHeintz

[ferret]

As for a round knife, I know what it is, but really that is about it! What is it used for? Skiving leather? Cutting patterns?

A simpler question would be "what isn't it used for?". If you use the search facility and look for "round/head knife" you'll find a wealth of information has been posted about them, including who makes the best, how to sharpen and even how to make your own.

[Duke]

sounds like you know what youre doing. im glad to hear you will be recessing your stitches as it gives it a more professional look and really saves your bacon. I hate having to re-sew something.I will post a pic with this to give you an idea of something I did for a breast collar. its still in the making, and wont be finished for a while as I am waiting on my tippman boss to come back from being repaired.

Edited May 23, 2008 by Duke

[Hilly]

Welcome! I don't know anything about making collars, so I'll just stick to things in my short experience working with leather.

Don't buy a rotary punch, they're a waste of money. You can get drive punches in the sizes you'll be needing, and not have to pay for the punch sizes you won't use. I bought one of those rotary punches, and it found a home in my trash can soon afterward.

If you are only going to make one collar or one bridle, etc., you can get by with a utility knife. If you do any more than that, you'll be happy with a head knife - though I hope you have better luck sharpening than me !

Good luck, have fun, and please post photos of your projects!

Hilly

[esantoro]

We had an excellent thread on this prior to Black Thursday (or whatever black day that was).

I think wing dividers, a stitching wheel, calipers (maybe even two; I like having both digital and analog) are a must.

Ed

[Hilly]

Don't forget a thread groover and overstitch wheels if you're hand stitching, and a C.S. Osborn diamond awl. Makes your stitching much neater looking.

A honing system if you will need to sharpen any blades...

[Rawhide]

Don't buy a rotary punch, they're a waste of money.

Hilly,

Did you buy a good one or a cheap one? There's a vast difference. Also, you must sharpen the tubes. I sharpen everything I buy simply because it isn't sharp enough.

I even sharpen my scalpel blades. (O.C.D.?-mmm, Maybe)

The reason for the rotary punch is to punch the holes in the field. He said that he was a working cowboy, so I figured a rotary would fit the bill a little better. I actually don't own a rotary, because I also prefer the single punches. (Which I sharpen the heck out of).

Marlon

Edited May 23, 2008 by Rawhide

[Hilly]

Hilly,

Did you buy a good one or a cheap one? There's a vast difference. Also, you must sharpen the tubes. I sharpen everything I buy simply because it isn't sharp enough.

I even sharpen my scalpel blades. (O.C.D.?-mmm, Maybe)

The reason for the rotary punch is to punch the holes in the field. He said that he was a working cowboy, so I figured a rotary would fit the bill a little better. I actually don't own a rotary, because I also prefer the single punches. (Which I sharpen the heck out of).

Marlon

I just bought one from Tandy, which I hated from day one. I found I still needed drive punches to make holes more than an inch from the edge of my project anyway, and pitched the rotary. Most people will still need the drive punches, so why bother with a rotary? Also, I have tendon problems and have lost much strength in my hands from tendon surgery, and repetitive use of the rotary caused me problems.

And you with your sharpening ! I wish you lived next door so you could show me the right way to sharpen! I'm so envious of your ability to do that! I'll have my head knife ground to a stub by the time I get the hang of that ! I'm getting a little better, but still not where I want to be... Thanks for reminding me though - I'm going camping this weekend, and I think I'll take my knife and skiving knife along and work on them.

[AndersHeintz]

Thanks for all the replies guys!!

I am planning on showing the stuff I make, even though I am not and probably will never be a professional leather worker I would love feed back as to what can be made better, more functional and even nicer looking. The stuff will be made to use, but would be neat to make something that is nice as well. My brand new Nikon D40 got stolen not too long ago (along with my ipod!! ) so it will be a bit before I can get a new one, as soon as I do I will show progress pictures!

Thanks for all the tips. I wasnt going to get a rotary punch, I think we have some in the tack room, but I never had good luck with them, although I am sure they were all pretty cheap ones.

Duke,

Thats a very nice breast collar you got going! Id like to make one with basket stamp just like yours, but a bit different style of collar, I will make a pulling collar, just one piece with no ring in the middle but a small D ring for a tie down which may be useful. I may also add a strap that goes over the neck to hold the collar up in place, we have a lot of mesas and rough up and down country where we pasture steers, which makes it really hard to keep the saddle and tack in place for any length of time. Especially now when it is starting to get a bit hotter (90ºF -100ºF) and we ride 8-10 hours a day, the horses sweat a lot which makes the tack slide around everywhere!

Anyways, I can only hope to get half as good a result as you are having and I will be tickled!

We had an excellent thread on this prior to Black Thursday (or whatever black day that was).

I think wing dividers, a stitching wheel, calipers (maybe even two; I like having both digital and analog) are a must.

Ed

I have some calipers allready that I use in my sculpting, but I will also get some wing deviders from Tandy as well, need them for some half circle patterns to replace the lower reinforcement leather on my working chaps.

Now, what is a stitching wheel? Is that the same as the spacer set from Tandy that marks the stitching holes as well as pressing the stitches or is it something else?

That thread sounds just like something I need to read! Do you happen to know what the title of the thread was so I can search for it, or do you have a link? Im trying to read up as much as I can before jumping into it!

Now, another question, can I use a dye to make the leather a bit darker (natural veg tanned leather now), to like a dark red-brown, or maybe a warm brown is probably a better description as Id like it to match my saddle. The problem is that I ride a lot of light colored horses, and dont want to stain the horses! Any suggestions, or can I just oil it real good, use it a lot etc and it will naturally darken?

Thanks again guys, I will make the order of the tools in the next few days, can't wait to get started!

[TwinOaks]

There's a variety of dyes available, and my opinion is that the Fiebing's spirit (alchohol based), and oil dyes are the best. For any dye, you'll need to seal the leather after staining. Fiebing's Aussie Leather Conditioner is good, and contains no animal fats (which according to some can promote mold), and there's a whole shelf full of oils (neatsfoot, mink, etc.) that work well too. For some stirrup straps I did on a repair job, I saturated and rubbed in thouroughly plain old carnuba wax. That has yet to bleed out any color. For the colors, you might like to check out 'British Tan', 'med. brown', and I think 'chestnut'.

[esantoro]

I think the Tandy spacer is the same as what I'm calling a stitching wheel.

Ed

Thanks for all the replies guys!!

I am planning on showing the stuff I make, even though I am not and probably will never be a professional leather worker I would love feed back as to what can be made better, more functional and even nicer looking. The stuff will be made to use, but would be neat to make something that is nice as well. My brand new Nikon D40 got stolen not too long ago (along with my ipod!! ) so it will be a bit before I can get a new one, as soon as I do I will show progress pictures!

Thanks for all the tips. I wasnt going to get a rotary punch, I think we have some in the tack room, but I never had good luck with them, although I am sure they were all pretty cheap ones.

Duke,

Thats a very nice breast collar you got going! Id like to make one with basket stamp just like yours, but a bit different style of collar, I will make a pulling collar, just one piece with no ring in the middle but a small D ring for a tie down which may be useful. I may also add a strap that goes over the neck to hold the collar up in place, we have a lot of mesas and rough up and down country where we pasture steers, which makes it really hard to keep the saddle and tack in place for any length of time. Especially now when it is starting to get a bit hotter (90ºF -100ºF) and we ride 8-10 hours a day, the horses sweat a lot which makes the tack slide around everywhere!

Anyways, I can only hope to get half as good a result as you are having and I will be tickled!

I have some calipers allready that I use in my sculpting, but I will also get some wing deviders from Tandy as well, need them for some half circle patterns to replace the lower reinforcement leather on my working chaps.

Now, what is a stitching wheel? Is that the same as the spacer set from Tandy that marks the stitching holes as well as pressing the stitches or is it something else?

That thread sounds just like something I need to read! Do you happen to know what the title of the thread was so I can search for it, or do you have a link? Im trying to read up as much as I can before jumping into it!

Now, another question, can I use a dye to make the leather a bit darker (natural veg tanned leather now), to like a dark red-brown, or maybe a warm brown is probably a better description as Id like it to match my saddle. The problem is that I ride a lot of light colored horses, and dont want to stain the horses! Any suggestions, or can I just oil it real good, use it a lot etc and it will naturally darken?

Thanks again guys, I will make the order of the tools in the next few days, can't wait to get started!

[bruce johnson]

Anders,

Sounds like you are going to be hand sewing. For any kind of decent results you are going to need something to hold it. I started off with a small vise with the clamp on base. I covered the jaws with leather pads, and screwed it onto a slideout bread board in the kitchen. Sat there in the kitchen and handsewed (6 spi) one headstall a night for a couple years. I had two stamps - a #500 basket and a small cam for the border that I hit with a fiberglass autobody hammer. I sold them off my saddlehorn on the weekends for entry fees.

The list so far is pretty good. I would add decent edgers to the list. What kind will trigger debate, so just find something that you like and can sharpen in a medium size. For chemicals I like the spirit dyes too, and mix then directly with my NF oil. As far as other conditioners, if you are in Alpine, Big Bend has most of my favorites listed on their website. I like the Williams about as well as anything. The Holes products are good, and the Black Rock is too. Talk to them and see what they are liking for your climate.

[AndersHeintz]

Thanks for the replies!

TwinOaks,

Thanks! The oil based dyes is exactly what I was looking at as well, thinking it would also add a bit more "softness" or just that, oiled, feel to the leather. I didnt realize you had to seal it afterwards though, thanks a ton for pointing that out!

Ed,

Cool, Thanks!

Bruce,

Exactly right, I'll be hand stiching, although I did talk to Gary over at Big Bend and they would machine sow anything Id like, as long as the piece was glued together and ready to go, but I feel that would be kind of 'lame' as part of the whole point is to make it yourself and enjoy the process.

I was part of a PBS show called Texas Ranch House (lived like cowboys on a 1867 style cattle ranch), which was filmed here in Alpine, and which is how I ended up here, and as part of the prep for the show, we had a session of basic leather work with Gary at Big Bend Saddelry. It was very informative, although very basic and general, and I wish I would have taken more notes! They really produce some nice leather goods at Big Bend, Id buy the stuff from them, but then again, the fun is in making it yourself, and then enjoying to use it more.

I thought the keen edge beveler was an edging tool? Am I assuming wrong? The way I thought it worked was to use the tool to round of the edges. If this is wrong, what is it used for?

Also, I read elsewhere on this forum that the plastic burnishing wheel was no good, so I will skip that. I remember Gary showing us how he burninshed the sides of a piece of leather with a small piece of wood. Dont remember more then that, maybe he put something on it or wetted it or something like that. The end result was a nice, darker smooth edge.

I will get a small vice of some sorts and make leather pads for it, sounds like a great idea! As for the tooling maullet/hammer. Does it make that much difference if you use a larger type maullet rather then a hammer of sorts? Are there any substitues for a plastic or rawhide one that is as good or almost equivilant?

Another question (yeah I know...a lot of them!! sorry!) is it best to use glue when sewing two pieces together (like the collar, it will have 2 pieces) before sewing it? If so, what glue should one use?

Thanks again everyone for putting up with my newbie questions and youthful ignorance !

[esantoro]

I like having three of the granite slabs from Tandy. I can move them easily to different locations. If you have the space, then one larger slab might be better.

Also a good anvil. Knowing what I know now, nothing smaller than a 15 lbs anvil. Though, who knows, maybe it's good to have the Tandy 2 pounder on hand.

Harbor Freight now has a 15 pounder for $15.

ed

[AndersHeintz]

Hola Ed,

Thanks for the heads up on the mini anvil. I used to work as a farrier during my college years and have a nice small 50 lbs anvil, may be a bit large though! What are the anvils used for?

Luckily, I will have plenty of space for a workshop, our house has a 2 car garage that was converted into a room so I will be able to set up a desk, probably a 4 x 8 home made table, but we will see what it ends up being.

[esantoro]

Hola Ed,

Thanks for the heads up on the mini anvil. I used to work as a farrier during my college years and have a nice small 50 lbs anvil, may be a bit large though! What are the anvils used for?

Luckily, I will have plenty of space for a workshop, our house has a 2 car garage that was converted into a room so I will be able to set up a desk, probably a 4 x 8 home made table, but we will see what it ends up being.

I use the anvil for setting rivets. the rivets set much better when the anvil is of the right size, especially when peening or rolling or setting caps on semi-tubular steel rivets.

Edited May 25, 2008 by esantoro

[esantoro]

I think it's good to have both contact cement and tanner's bond white glue on hand.

I also like having a light/medium duty vise that can clamp to a table top with a C-clamp.

ed

Thanks for the replies!

TwinOaks,

Thanks! The oil based dyes is exactly what I was looking at as well, thinking it would also add a bit more "softness" or just that, oiled, feel to the leather. I didnt realize you had to seal it afterwards though, thanks a ton for pointing that out!

Ed,

Cool, Thanks!

Bruce,

Exactly right, I'll be hand stiching, although I did talk to Gary over at Big Bend and they would machine sow anything Id like, as long as the piece was glued together and ready to go, but I feel that would be kind of 'lame' as part of the whole point is to make it yourself and enjoy the process.

I was part of a PBS show called Texas Ranch House (lived like cowboys on a 1867 style cattle ranch), which was filmed here in Alpine, and which is how I ended up here, and as part of the prep for the show, we had a session of basic leather work with Gary at Big Bend Saddelry. It was very informative, although very basic and general, and I wish I would have taken more notes! They really produce some nice leather goods at Big Bend, Id buy the stuff from them, but then again, the fun is in making it yourself, and then enjoying to use it more.

I thought the keen edge beveler was an edging tool? Am I assuming wrong? The way I thought it worked was to use the tool to round of the edges. If this is wrong, what is it used for?

Also, I read elsewhere on this forum that the plastic burnishing wheel was no good, so I will skip that. I remember Gary showing us how he burninshed the sides of a piece of leather with a small piece of wood. Dont remember more then that, maybe he put something on it or wetted it or something like that. The end result was a nice, darker smooth edge.

I will get a small vice of some sorts and make leather pads for it, sounds like a great idea! As for the tooling maullet/hammer. Does it make that much difference if you use a larger type maullet rather then a hammer of sorts? Are there any substitues for a plastic or rawhide one that is as good or almost equivilant?

Another question (yeah I know...a lot of them!! sorry!) is it best to use glue when sewing two pieces together (like the collar, it will have 2 pieces) before sewing it? If so, what glue should one use?

Thanks again everyone for putting up with my newbie questions and youthful ignorance !

[sodapop]

hey anders...heres a thought for a chunk of granite...i went to a place that makes/sells headstones...and they had a graveyard of misfits in the back...and they were more than happy to let me have whatever i wanted for FREE...since they have to pay to have them disposed of...is what they told me...hense why they had soooo much to choose from =0)

darryl

Edited May 25, 2008 by sodapop

[hivemind]

I'm far from a pro, but I use my German leather shears a TON. I also have never bought a rawhide mallet. For driving hole punches and stuff, I use a rubber mallet with a piece of thick hide glued on the face of it. Everyone talks about a head knife, but I have an Osborne one that I've never used. I can see the utility of it and all, it just seems like I already have a purpose made tool to do everything that other people say they use their head knives for. I also don't relish the idea of what looks like a steep learning curve to master that particular tool, nor the constant sharpening and stropping that goes with it. I'm probably wrong though...

[TwinOaks]

The oil dyes aren't the thing that imparts a particular feel to the leather. Oil dyes are used for their better than average penetration and colorfastness. The final top coat finish will really determine the feel, and the softness of the leather is going to be greatly affected by the type of tanning (we'll presume veg. tan), and the conditioners applied to the leather. As an example- I made a belt for my dad, using a Tandy belt blank. The grain side was tooled, dyed (spirit dye) and sealed with neat-lac. From the flesh side, we hand rubbed in A LOT of carnuba cream. The carnuba is a conditioner, and since it has waxes in it, helps protect the leather as well. Before the CC, I could hold the belt about 6 inches from the end, and it wouldn't flop over. The leather was stiff. Afterwards, with the finished belt, is was so supple that a 2 inch hold still leaned pretty far. We also used the CC to recondition a belt that my dad made for his dad nearly 35 years ago. It's supple again too, but isn't in use because of it's keepsake value.

I'm not sure anyone else touched on this, but don't skimp on leather quality for something you want to last. Buy the cheap stuff for practice, but spend money on final products, and don't neglect to charge for it accordingly. The above mentioned 'grandpa's belt' was made from top quality leather, and I wouldn't be surprised if it outlasted the blank I bought.

[AndersHeintz]

Thanks guys!!

Darryl,

I have a small piece of marble allready, but I may been a bigger one, especially after looking at some peoples workbenches on these forums! There is a funeral home right down the road and can call them and see if their supplier of head stones is close by.

Hivemind,

Thanks for the post! Im no sure so sure what German Leather Shearers are? What they do?

TwinOaks,

Interesting! It sounds like thats the stuff I need! Where can I get some carnuba cream? Do you always just use it on the flesh side?

As for the oil based dyes it makes sense that they don't make the leather softer. Coming from a painting background I have used oil colors in the past, and they are cut with white spirit or mineral spirits, neither which is 'soft' and tends to dry out thigns rather then make them more 'oily'. The sound just makes it seem like they would help the leather.

How do you determine if the quality of a hide is good? I got a nice side of leather, feels good, looks good, but was not top dollar. It is indeed Veg Tanned as well. Any way to see the quality or some signs to look for?

Thanks again guys for all your replies, they have all been of tremendous help in the quest of starting some leatherwork!

[hivemind]

"German leather shears" refers to a set of heavy-duty, spring-loaded, high-quality scissors. Mine happen to be German-made. Mine are also kind of serrated on one edge, which helps it grip the leather when cutting.