Members luvthegun Posted April 3, 2011 Members Report Posted April 3, 2011 Greatings to everyone. I have been crawling around here reading just about everything. I have been making holsters for about 3 months. Out of cowhide. Seen an ad here for horse butts. And started thinking. Is horse better than cow. Is it harder to work with? Does it accept dye the same? And should I give it a try? Going to see if I can post some pics of a couple holsters I made. Quote
Members Shooter McGavin Posted April 3, 2011 Members Report Posted April 3, 2011 Horsehide.... just read an interesting article regarding horse vs cow on Friday while I was looking for pre-cut horsehide belt liners ( no joy, BTW ). The article I read was written by a man who says he has 30 years experience working with both cow and horse, and he feels that the cow will outperform the horse in all aspects of gunleather. If youre interested in reading it, I'll scour through my browser history and see what I can dig up. The PF9 holster looks great, I like the concept of the clip on with the built in cant. Most clip types ride straight up. The Bersa holster I'm going to nitpick a couple of things. The first being the trigger guard coverage. Theres a lot of trigger and trigger guard exposed. Dont know if its a real safety concern, but most prefer a bit more coverage, builders and end users alike. Second, You might find it better to move you belt slots away from the gun a bit. Unless you plan for that to be between the pant and belt, you might find some difficulty with the slots that close. The slots themselves look nice though. What did you use to cut them out with? _dan Quote Zlogonje Gunleathers
Members marine mp Posted April 3, 2011 Members Report Posted April 3, 2011 Andy Arratoonian from Horseshoe Leather Products has been making leather product for 35 years. He has a good article on cow vs. horse for leather holsters on his horseshoe leather site. The holsters look great. I agree with Dan to some extent on the trigger-guard area. Not so much about the coverage, as it looks o.k., but that the trigger itself is molded into the leather. For me, thats a bad concept. As you are holstering the weapon, it could accidently go "boom". Also, the belt slots look to be at different angles, I myself like to keep them at the same angle, although that just my preference. All in all, Great job. Semper-fi Mike Quote "The first one thru the door...gets the copper-coated candy". ADL Custom Holsters "I've got a LONG list of real good reasons, for all the things that I have done"!!!
Members luvthegun Posted April 3, 2011 Author Members Report Posted April 3, 2011 Thanks. The PF9 I really like. When talking to people some said they like clips others said the holster would pull out with the gun. So was thinking if the gun was on a cant then the draw angle would be ina way tio cause a pinch effect on the belt when drawing. So far it has worked. The Bersa. Even though the gun is empty (no mag and I unload all firearms while working on them) I forgot to decock. That being said it is not possible for the holster to pull trigger all the way back to fire. Especially in DA. Holster was designed to be carried decocked and safety on. The belt loops were cut with a 1/4 inch round punch and then finished with wood chisel. Then burnished with sanded down dowl in hand drill. The angle I am working on. I will post a pic of one I finished today. That are straight. As far as horse vs cow. Seen some 36 X 14ish horse for 12 bucks. Didn't say how thick. But seemed like a good buy. I crank out about 4 to 5 holsters a week. Sell them on ebay for a couple of bucks. Just enough to buy more material. I learn more by doing. Remember before Feb - never touched leather. I think I'm doing well. I love working with leather. It is one thing I can focus on. Brings me peace. Thanks Quote
Members Rayban Posted April 3, 2011 Members Report Posted April 3, 2011 Is horse better than cow. Is it harder to work with? Does it accept dye the same? And should I give it a try? I would like to address your questions based on my limited experience with horse hide. Horse seems to be more dense...tighter, if you will....than cow. I wouldn't say it's harder to work with, but different. It doesn't mold as easily, not does it carve and stamp as easily as cow. It certainly does not dye the same as cow.....horse ends up being kinda splotchy.....I have much smoother results with cow. Should you try it? For sure......the butts that Springfield sells for $10 is a great deal and enough leather there to do several projects....then YOU can determine if horse is for you. Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
Members luvthegun Posted April 4, 2011 Author Members Report Posted April 4, 2011 I would like to address your questions based on my limited experience with horse hide. Horse seems to be more dense...tighter, if you will....than cow. I wouldn't say it's harder to work with, but different. It doesn't mold as easily, not does it carve and stamp as easily as cow. It certainly does not dye the same as cow.....horse ends up being kinda splotchy.....I have much smoother results with cow. Should you try it? For sure......the butts that Springfield sells for $10 is a great deal and enough leather there to do several projects....then YOU can determine if horse is for you. Thanks for the info. So horse is much harder to work with. Is it worth the effort? I wouldn't mind being able to say I worked with horse. But need there to be a good reason to try. I find cowhide easy and fun to work with. So is this something people look for in a holster? Horse hide? Does it hold up much better than cowhide? Thanks again Quote
MADMAX22 Posted April 4, 2011 Report Posted April 4, 2011 Just limited experience working with horse not with holsters yet but with a few other smaller projects. What Rayban said was pretty much spot on. I have experienced all the same trials and errors. I think with horse since it is denser you can get away with a little thinner leather then you would with cow but its not like you really get much of a choice in thickness with horsehide. I think horse wears very nicely. It burnishes up and seems to handle the elements pretty darn well. I personally have really liked how it looks after it has been used for a while. Like Rayban said get a couple or one of the $10 dollar butts and you will have plenty of good usable leather to try out. Quote
Members joke55 Posted April 6, 2011 Members Report Posted April 6, 2011 I bought one of the horse butts, but haven't used it yet. I also bought some 1 1/2 inch wide horse strips that I have used. They are much denser than cow, but seem a little more brittle when finished. I used the strips in place of cow on a couple projects, and not really sold on them. I may try to oil the leather more before working with it and see if that helps, but found it cracking on bends that weren't that sharp. Quote
Contributing Member rdb Posted April 7, 2011 Contributing Member Report Posted April 7, 2011 I use horse all the time. It's great to work with. Cuts smoothly. Molds nicely. Just not a carving type leather. The butts you buy are not that big, and thickness varies all over. You can get at least one strong holster out of one butt, using the stronger edge of the hide. Money wise it's a good deal. Here's a sample: Quote Web page Facebook
Members JRCHolsters Posted April 7, 2011 Members Report Posted April 7, 2011 I pretty much only use Horsehide. I don't really find it harder to work with, just different. I am surprised you are having cracking issues. Try wetting it a touch more before bending it. It has a tighter grain and I personally find it requires a bit more moisture to work with. I really like the character of the leather when done. Quote J.R. Customs Holsters
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