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Posted

I've used quite a bit of horsehide and actually enjoy working with it. I burnishes beautifully and easily. I was scared about the dye problems at first, but have never really had an issue with it. I'll bet I've had more problems with dying cow than horse (brown!) Maybe it is because I usually airbrush it.

As far as cracking, I'll bet it's a lower grade cut that already has some cracking in it. I've spread it around quite a bit to try to find who has the best hides. The very first piece was the best one I ever got, from Pete at.....damn, can't remember the name, someone here knows who I'm talking about. This year he only has 4-5 ounce left I guess. Been thinking about ordering some and doubling it up and make lined horsehide.

Brutten's (spelling) Village sent me some very nice ones to. The cheap ones for $10-$12 each have usually sucked.

For IWB, Horsehide ROCKS! It's thin and very comfortable.

I find it is no harder to form or bone my leather than cow.

Big River Leather
DLCP228MahogcharcoalEleph001small_zpsniz

  • Members
Posted

Thanks for all the responses. I think I will give it a try. But first I am going to try a stingray inlay. Working with leather is like crack to me. Had my first taste in Feb of this year and I have not been able to stop. And I don't want to stop.

  • Members
Posted

I'm using horse butt to line the inside of IWB straps. Makes them more durable, stiffer and should work well with Sings and Belts for guns I would think.

No sir, he fell into that bullet

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Horse hide is great stuff......If I could buy it in the same sizes and weights as cow.....I would never buy cow again. The edges are so easy to burnish and look great. It is denser and will outlast cowhide by a long shot. It is a little harder to mold and tool. If you will rub some saddle soap on it before you start tooling you'll find that your swivel knife will glide right over it. When stamping the images burnish better than cow too.

If given a choice between hard rolled and soft rolled (Seigel has both) choose the soft rolled. Use the hard rolled for strap goods and soft for everything else. Several years ago I got some 8-9 oz horse and they were pretty long pieces too. I made myself a belt and will probably never have to make myself another.

Tim

Edited by Timbo
  • 2 months later...
  • Members
Posted

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I have a question about Horsehide for you IWB holster makers.

I've heard horsehide holds up better to sweat than cowhide. Is this without a finish like Resolene? How do you finish your horsehide holsters?

I live in the humid South and sweat A LOT. I'm wondering if horsehide would have any real advantage over cow once both are properly finished.

  • Members
Posted

I've been using Resolene (50/50 mix) and I'm liking the results. It doesn't end up having too much of a sheen to it.....more natural looking and I likie...

Misc193.jpg

Rayban
www.rgleather.net

  • Members
Posted

Andy Arratoonian from Horseshoe Leather Products has been making leather product for 35 years. He has a good article on cow vs. horse for leather holsters on his horseshoe leather site. The holsters look great. I agree with Dan to some extent on the trigger-guard area. Not so much about the coverage, as it looks o.k., but that the trigger itself is molded into the leather. For me, thats a bad concept. As you are holstering the weapon, it could accidently go "boom". Also, the belt slots look to be at different angles, I myself like to keep them at the same angle, although that just my preference. All in all, Great job. Semper-fi Mike

Molding in the Trigger Guard could only effect the trigger if there was enough room in the holster for the gun to pass farther down. The gun line stitching prevents the gun from going down far enough for any molding to effect the trigger. Unless the molding is in the top edge, then there would be a problem. I did see a situation where a CCW'er had a older well used, didn't look well cared for holster that the top edge was pinched and formed a "V" and the corner of the V contacted the trigger, because the gun had room to continue traveling down, it did go BOOM, it didn't hit the owner, but made a new drain hole in his car. moral of the story, pay attention to the condition of your leather.

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