Members The Grizzly Posted April 4, 2011 Members Report Posted April 4, 2011 On my last sheath I colored up with a heavy dose of Fiebings Light Brown Pro Oil dye then finished with a hot waxing using a mixture of beeswax, paraffin and neat's foot oil, I've noticed that if I rub the sheath with a cloth to buff up the finish, I still get color coming through the wax. Did I use too much dye perhaps? After dyeing I rubbed and rubbed with a microfiber towel till I removed as much of the extra pigment as possible, then did my waxing. Any ideas why? Should I stop using these homebrew blends and switch to something like Sno-Seal or Montana Pitch Blend for my waxy water repelling finishes? Quote
Members The Grizzly Posted April 6, 2011 Author Members Report Posted April 6, 2011 37 views and no insight to offer? Quote
Members billsreef Posted April 6, 2011 Members Report Posted April 6, 2011 Were you still getting any die coming off on the cloth when you stopped buffing? I've never used the oil based dyes. With water based and spirit based dyes I've never had die rub off with the final finish so long as I put in the elbow grease to buff till absolutely no traces of color come off on the buffing cloth or pad. I also like to let the dye dry overnight before buffing. Quote
Members The Grizzly Posted April 6, 2011 Author Members Report Posted April 6, 2011 Yes the dye had stopped coming off before I added my beeswax/paraffin/neats foot oil mix. After adding it, working it in with heat, and finishing with a coat of neutral shoe polish, the dye began to come out on the polishing cloth as I was buffing the polish. Quote
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted April 6, 2011 Contributing Member Report Posted April 6, 2011 Is it possible that the waxes are lifting the dye back out of the leather? That's the only thing I can think could be happening. Quote
Members The Grizzly Posted April 6, 2011 Author Members Report Posted April 6, 2011 That was my guess too. I may do some test pieces and alter my mix a bit. Do one with just beeswax and neats-foot, one with just beeswax and paraffin, etc. Any of you guys who have used Montana Pitch Blend or Sno-Seal, did you notice anything similar with dye lifting out? Quote
Hennessy Posted April 23, 2011 Report Posted April 23, 2011 That was my guess too. I may do some test pieces and alter my mix a bit. Do one with just beeswax and neats-foot, one with just beeswax and paraffin, etc. Any of you guys who have used Montana Pitch Blend or Sno-Seal, did you notice anything similar with dye lifting out? i believe your in overkill in yer process on edging grizz.edges are sealed to eliminate problems with moisture,they are dyed to pretty up the project.my process is slick edge first by damping and one way rubbing nap down slick a li'l soap helps.let dry untill almost dry ,dye edge [now] hot iron beeswax on edge spread it with hot iron when finished wipe denium over edge, parrafin melted onto denium.[other way] ]now] apply soap over dyed edge and wipe parrafin rag one way with nap. try both n see pete Quote
Members The Grizzly Posted April 25, 2011 Author Members Report Posted April 25, 2011 It's not just the edges, anywhere on the sheath would rub dye off. Thanks for finishing ideas too! I still haven't got around to trying a different method...hopefully soon. Quote
Members JoelR Posted June 8, 2011 Members Report Posted June 8, 2011 You're not alone. Edging away from Resoleen and did my first finish with the 1:1:1 wax:wax:neatsfoot mix and am getting heavy rub-off. Gonna let it sit a day and hit it with a fresh buffing wheel and see what happens. This is a proof-of-design holster that my best customer decided was good enough for his wife, so I certainly don't want her to cut him off because I caused her nice white pants to turn black... Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.