Help And Tips On Selective Dyeing?

[terrymac]

Just a couple of suggestions:

1. Use the wipe on Neatlac (Clearlac), and let dry overnight before applying the antique.

2. Use Fiebing's Antique paste rather than the Eco Flo antique products. You will end up with the ugliest colors in the world.

3. I don't believe the resist will work as a block for the dye very well.

Hope this helps

Terry

[GlenH]

Sounds like what you want to do is block dye it. The tool impressions will still be the natural color. Take care when you finish it though. I did a belt (actually my own belt) and I block dyed it, and it came out great. Then I brushed on super shene, and the super shene picked up the color and filled in the tool impressions. I use the spray on super shene now and that works fine.

[The Grizzly]

Thanks for the suggestions.

As for block dyeing, I don't think my railroad track will sit below the surface of the surrounding leather enough not to get dye on it.

[Nightwolf]

If I read correctly your looking for something like this (only railroad not celtic)

This is a bracelet I made for my wife, the background is all hand dyed by painting with a good quality red sable brush as mentioned above, and the knotwork left the natural color of the leather after neatsfoot oil, you can also leave it in the sun a bit if you want to darken the leather, but you need to do that before you apply the finishes, since the the finish will protect the leather.

Simply follow the basics of leather dying, no magic secrets to speak of.

1. I do case the leather before dying (not wet, but properly cased) I found this helps to the dye to not over spread when painting in those small areas.

2. In this instance I used fiebiengs oil based black dye. Dip the brush about 3/4 of the way into the dye to "load" the brush. NEVER dip the whole brush in the metal part (I think its called the ferrel) should never directly contact the dye.

3. Practice this part!!!! When you first touch the tip of the brush to the leather the dye will flow out into the leather, so its important to start in the middle of an area to be dyed, never near your toolwork!

4. I let the extra ink bleed out from the brush in the center area, then slowly (and very cafrefully) work towards my tooling, bevel line etc. You are only going to get about 1/4 to 1/2 along the toolwork done before you repeat the process. dont rush it, thats how mistakes are made!

If you would like to use a resist, I would actually go ahead and use Tan Kote on the area you want left natural (this also makes it possible if you get a small spot on while doing the background you can just wipe it off if you catch it quickly.

Would love to see a picture of your belt when your done!