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About terrymac

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  • Birthday 03/21/1946

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  • Location
    Albuquerque, New Mexico

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Floral carving
  • Interested in learning about
    Sheridan style
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    surfing the web

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  1. If you have paste that will pour out, something is wrong. I have never, in 60 years, encountered that. If you just recently purchased, I will bet it was frozen at some point. With all of the cold weather, it is entirely possible. You can't tell the difference between light and dark brown in the jar. They both look alike. Terry
  2. I have used Quik Slick for years and works well. Now using a product sold by Bobby Park (Hidepounder) called Magic Edge and seems to work better. No experience with Martin's Mix, in fact had never heard of it. Terry
  3. Please send me a PM and we can discuss your particulars. I am doing some custom sewing Thanks Terry
  4. Don't know what you are expecting, but as a user of many of Barry's tools, they make sharp and distinct impressions Terry
  5. I also use paper towels to get the majority of the paste and then follow up with wool to get the paste out of cuts , impressions. Terry
  6. The key to using Fiebing antique paste is using wool shearing, either real or synthetic. If you are trying to remove with any kind of towel, you aren't getting it all. I learned the hard way. Tandy sells synthetic wool with as.pads or by the yard. The pads can get expensive, by the yard not to bad. Terry
  7. The biggest problem I can see is Tan Kote is not normally used a resist. You are far better of using Clearlac or Fiebings Pro Resist Terry
  8. The depth of the background is determined by the depth of your swivel cut Terry
  9. If the glue sets for a period of time, it will separate, but it is easily stirred(not sure about gallon size can). Your pieces either need to hit with a hammer or pressed together with some force. I have never experienced the problem you are. I also keep some thinner around to stir in if it starts getting to thick. Terry
  10. Where in the bell did this yo yo come from? Whiz is one of the most respected and knowledgeable people on this forum. When was the last time you imported a machine into the United States from China? If a person was highly proficient with sewing machines it may be workable, most of the people looking to buy are not. If this is any indication of what we can expect from you, I respectfully suggest you go find another place to offer your sound advice
  11. Angelis leather paints, especially if you are spraying. Just be sure and get some "2 Thin" from Angelus to thin the paint. They recommend a 2.: 1, ratio, but I am using more like a 1:1, it seems to spray better. If you follow directions, this stuff is really tough. I don't think the oil dyes will work any better for you. Trying to dye over a white background would be a disaster in IMHO. It might help if you are using the paints as Angelis recommends this be done with some of their neon colors. Hope this helps, Terry
  12. I have been using Clearlac ever since Tandy removed Neatlac and have never had a problem with it subduing color.. I have to admit I never use black, too many problems associated. If you will try Fiebings "Cordovan dye" 99 out of 100 people can't tell it is not black, and you don't have the problems normally associated with black. I have never tried thinning, can't tell you about that. Hope this helps Terry
  13. Terrymac...appreciate the tip on the edge dressing / edge paint.  Thanks.

  14. Easiest way I know is to use a back beveler. It rounds off the "back" side of your cut. Barry King sells them Terry
  15. To get a longer lasting shine, paraffin is used as the final step, usually burnished with some sort of a mechanical device. The problem is this only last for a period of time, especially when worn everyday. I have gone to using edge paint. It is a much more tedious process, but when applied properly it is tough. This stuff lasts. I am using Venis or Herrera, both sold by Rocky Mountain Supply.
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