Jump to content

battlemunky

Members
  • Content Count

    2,380
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About battlemunky

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 09/17/1976

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huntsville, AL
  • Interests
    Damn near everything

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Wallets, belts, sheaths
  • Interested in learning about
    Progressively getting better
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Pinterest

Recent Profile Visitors

8,992 profile views
  1. You could also soak it in water and it'll pull some of the dye out too but it is hard to control and not an exact process. Should just be able to let it dry afterward and be ready to get back on what you were doing with it. If it goes too light using that approach, I'd let it go since it should darken with use. This is always a tough call.
  2. battlemunky

    Cliche

    Whatever pays for time and materials.
  3. I blued my Blanchard wing dividers and live in Alabama where it is decently humid and haven't had rust since I did it, not even on places where my hands touch so I figured it was good as a surface protectant from minor rust. Same with my carbon knives, zero rust anymore. *Shrug*
  4. Also if you have access to some gun cold bluing it'll work as well. You could also use vinegar to force a patina that should inhibit further corrosion too.
  5. I would avoid eBay leather. You could get lucky but I wouldn't risk the waste of time and energy if the leather is crap. I usually don't recommend Tandy but they may have something to fit your need for a bit more certainty than eBay. Any 6 to 10 oz veg/oil tan should work for that back piece. I wouldn't go much lower than 6 and anything higher than 10 is just going to add bulk and weight. Also, aesthetically, you get nothing from dye other than color so if you'd be inclined to use plain veg tan you could let it develop it's own patina/character with time. Best of luck on the resto.
  6. High carbon steel is going to rust. It sucks that wasn't explained at the time of purchase but even if you clean it off and keep after it there is always maintenance with carbon steel. Having said that, it should affect the tool much at all and from your pics it is just surface rust and no pitting or anything crazy near the sharp bits so you should be good.
  7. I hate to admit it but I have one of those high end knives and use my $12 Olfa snap blade knife almost exclusively. There's bound to be some local knifesmiths willing to help you out. I wish I had better/more helpful insight for you. Also, your work looks clean, bravo.
  8. I've seen it get like a chalky dust form over it but not that the antique itself has gone gray. Try buffing it with a soft brush (shoe brushy type thing) and see if that helps. If that doesn't, I got nothing else really. Maybe someone else will come along and have THE solution.
  9. Yeah man, that's a great feather and a great way to spruce up a hat...another one of your ideas I may shamelessly swipe for my own devices.
  10. Yeah, it does matter but mainly on thinner leathers and applications where you are subjecting the leather to a heavy load. If you are going to be making small leather goods you're mainly dealing with aesthetics and preference.
  11. Great package in its entirety Chuck. Love the taper on the blade side stacked bit for some reason, it just makes it look well thought out. And the utility of the sheath is great too. I'm surprised not to have seen it before its such a good idea.
×
×
  • Create New...