Swivel Knife Control

[reddevil76]

I've just started on practising the swivel knife and my bin is full of discarded leather now.

When cutting large twisties, is it normal that you actually have to twist the knife to the point where you are pushing the blade instead of pulling it towards you? I don't see how I could cut them otherwise unless I turn the piece as I cut. However, that prevents a smooth continous cut.

Also, I tried cutting with a traced outline, and I find it extremely difficult to see the traced line unless I lean the blade to a side which isn't very good for getting a smooth cut.

[King's X]

Good question. Many people can only cut in a pulling action with confidence and vice versus. I can do it both ways, but I would rather cut and stop as I reach a point where I become a bit uncomfortable. I then just rotate the leather, set the knife blade back into the cut about 1/8" from the ending point and begin to cut again. For me, one of the most comfortable knives that I own in my collection is the SK-3 with a push/pull saddle or yoke. It is not mandatory, but like I said it makes it a bit more comfortable. The push & pull method does require a lot of work and confidence, but it can be achieved. Keep at it.

As for the trace outline cutting, I have a question for you. Are you tilting the knife away from you as you pull it to cut? If you are not tilting the knife back before you start to cut.......give a it a try. You will probably be surprise that you line will be more visible.

I hope this helps you get a answer to your question.

[TwinOaks]

Learning to keep a constant angle on the blade while carving more or less drove me to using an angled blade. I found I could keep a more consistent pressure if I kept the knife vertical. So...I went with the angled blade instead of angling the knife. I think it also makes it easier for beginners to learn to twist around a curve as well as see the pattern line.

[reddevil76]

Thanks for the replies. I did tilt my knife while cutting but it still obscures the traced line. I have considered using an angled blade instead.

However, to control shipping costs, I will have wait till I have more things to order before I can order a blade in. In the meantime, I just have practise with my standard Craftool one. Who knows, if I can get any good with it, I might do better once I can afford a better knife!

I did read alot regarding the SK knifes, but it doesn't quite make sense for me to ship from multiple sources. i try to keep my ordering one stop. So I may consider buying the Al Stohlman Swivel Knife from Tandy as I make most of my purchases there.

[cem]

Thanks for the replies. I did tilt my knife while cutting but it still obscures the traced line. I have considered using an angled blade instead.

However, to control shipping costs, I will have wait till I have more things to order before I can order a blade in. In the meantime, I just have practise with my standard Craftool one. Who knows, if I can get any good with it, I might do better once I can afford a better knife!

I did read alot regarding the SK knifes, but it doesn't quite make sense for me to ship from multiple sources. i try to keep my ordering one stop. So I may consider buying the Al Stohlman Swivel Knife from Tandy as I make most of my purchases there.

I swapped to an angle blade after having the same trouble you have and are much happier with it my main thing was I'd done alot of cutting out stencils with a scalpel blade in a previous job and the flat swivel knife blades just didn't feel right in how it obscured the line for me.

The postage from Leather Wranglers was pretty good and from what I can remember was alot cheaper than what Tandy charges me to ship to Oz if you do decide to go with one.

[infomage]

What type of lighting are you using? I have a swing arm light over my work area so i can move it around to remove shadows and provide the best light to see a given operation. One other thing if the leather is cased when you trace the line should be pretty easy to see if you remove the shadows from your hand..

tlong

Think Positive Be Positive

[Stewart]

Hi Tlong,

I can relate to ordering and scrap leather. Using the swivel knife is still a problem to me.

I do a lot of tracing and found out that if i press harder when i trace on to leather my knife

tries to run in the grove. after a while i found out that i do not have to press as hard as it is

starting to become natural. A sharp blade helps. I do also tilt and use directional lighting.

As for scrap leather and cost, I chose to go ahead and do something for me or family

as practice. Any unused space on a scrap can be used for stropping the knife.

Maybe this can help cause i am still learning with written advice that is on here.

Joe St

Edited April 26, 2011 by Stewart

[King's X]

I am sure that I missed quite a few things that others have pointed out like lighting. This is very important! I have one fixed light and two swing arm lamps. As for turning the knife, remember that you add pressure using your finger on the saddle or yoke. The fingers on the barrel have a good grip on the barrel, but free from gripping to hard and causing tension that will not allow you to rotate the barrel freely.

Good luck.

[azrider]

Some thing that helps me is to move my entire arm, not just my wrist. I use my pinky to keep the knife stable. This takes more control, but gives me much smoother lines. When I have a sharp turn, I am turning the leather quite a bit. The biggest single thing that helped me was getting my blade sharp. I sharpened on a stone, then used a polishing wheel with jeweler's rouge to really polish the blade. Mine is shinny like a mirror on the tip. I also strop the blade constantly while using it.

[hidepounder]

reddevil76,

There have been a lot of good comments made here, however some I disagree with. It's not a matter of right or wrong, it's just that there is more than one way to skin a cat. With the greatest respect to my fellow toolers, I must disagree with the notion that you should switch to a narrow angled blade. In my humble opinion you should not begin using specialty blades until you master the basics. I recommend learning to use a 3/8" straight blade (hollow ground is great) in a 1/2" barrel knife. I think that is the most versatile knife to use and there is very little one CAN'T do with it. If I was forced to use only one knife, that would be it! For me it is all about learning good skills and not developing bad habits that must be unlearned later on. It may take you a little longer to get where you're going but once you get there you will be able to accomplish a lot more.

One of the most difficult things for new enthusiasts to accomplish is sharpening their blades and believe me nothing is harder to learn with that a dull knife. Find someone to help you learn to sharpen your knife. That will make a huge difference in learning to use it. It sounds silly but the truth is that most enthusiasts do not know what sharp really means. They have no basis for comparison and so they do not know what to strive for. You will need to purchase a good sharpening guide, stone or steel (I recommend a diamond impregnated steel) and a good strop.

When I'm using my swivel knife I pull it toward me. I do cut to the sides somewhat, but I mostly just pull the knife toward me. I think it is great to learn to use it in all directions, but only after you have learned to pull it toward you. When you need to, stop and turn the leather as the others have recommended.

I also strongly disagree with your philosophy regarding shipping charges! There is absolutely no comparison between Tandy entry level tools and a professional quality knife like Leather Wranglers. To choose such a lesser product to save a few dollars in shipping just doesn't make any sense to me. Just my opinion.....

Hope this helps.....

Bobby

Edited April 26, 2011 by hidepounder