Add Skin To Belt

[craig h]

I am new to working with leather...if I want to make a belt with a skin inlay..do I first cut in my border and then do what stamping or carving and then just glue the skin to the area which I wish to add the skin to. What type of glue to use? Are perhaps I can be refered to an how to!

Thanks to all for helping this senior..

[King's X]

I would complete the top layer belt or item first to include any filigree work (cutouts). This includes any oiling and dyeing that I am going to do. Since I line all of my items to include my belts, I glue the exotic skin to the liner after checking the spot where I believe it will be going. I usually cut my inlay piece a bit larger to make sure the area is well cover and it does not come up through the cut out. Then I will glue the liner and project back with contact cement. I will put it aside until the glue dries (not shiny anymore) and carefully join the pieces together. Once the pieces have made contact, I will use a metal roller tool and roll the back of the project to make sure that all areas make good contact with the glue.

I use Master's contact cement; you can use Barge or Tandy Leather Factory contact cement. I also use Contact Cement from Home Depot that is used for counter tops. This one is good for times where I don't have the opportunity to prepare a good ventilated area.

Finally, Hidecrafter's has a video on how to inlay.

I hope this helps.

[Caffy]

I would complete the top layer belt or item first to include any filigree work (cutouts). This includes any oiling and dyeing that I am going to do. Since I line all of my items to include my belts, I glue the exotic skin to the liner after checking the spot where I believe it will be going. I usually cut my inlay piece a bit larger to make sure the area is well cover and it does not come up through the cut out. Then I will glue the liner and project back with contact cement. I will put it aside until the glue dries (not shiny anymore) and carefully join the pieces together. Once the pieces have made contact, I will use a metal roller tool and roll the back of the project to make sure that all areas make good contact with the glue.

I use Master's contact cement; you can use Barge or Tandy Leather Factory contact cement. I also use Contact Cement from Home Depot that is used for counter tops. This one is good for times where I don't have the opportunity to prepare a good ventilated area.

Finally, Hidecrafter's has a video on how to inlay.

I hope this helps.

Hi, I have a question about the inlay procedure. I have to do an inlay of ostrich leg in brown in the center of the holster and the rest the client wants in black ostrich leg. They want an pancake design. I am wondering if I could use the flesh side out, and glue the ostrich onto it to give it a better tact, does anyone ever do this? I would have a lining with the smooth side of the leather on the inside without having to line. I have been having trouble lately with my contact cement failing and the lining and leather splitting after making. This never happened before and I can't figure out why or what I am doing differently. I am using Wedgwood contact, but ordered some Barge to see if I can fix this problem. I put the contact on the flesh side of both and clamp between two pieces of smooth masonite till dry.

Also, where would I look to find hidecrafter's video?

Thanks so much you all are so very helpful!

[katsass]

Hi, I have a question about the inlay procedure. I have to do an inlay of ostrich leg in brown in the center of the holster and the rest the client wants in black ostrich leg. They want an pancake design. I am wondering if I could use the flesh side out, and glue the ostrich onto it to give it a better tact, does anyone ever do this? I would have a lining with the smooth side of the leather on the inside without having to line. I have been having trouble lately with my contact cement failing and the lining and leather splitting after making. This never happened before and I can't figure out why or what I am doing differently. I am using Wedgwood contact, but ordered some Barge to see if I can fix this problem. I put the contact on the flesh side of both and clamp between two pieces of smooth masonite till dry.

Also, where would I look to find hidecrafter's video?

Thanks so much you all are so very helpful!

FWIW from the grumpy old man; I make most of my holsters from two pieces of 4/5 or 5/6 oz leather bonded together on their flesh sides. This gives me a smooth outer surface along with a smooth inner surface. For an inlay, I simply cut the outer piece to provide a 'window' under which I place the inlaid leather. The inlaid piece is cut over-sized, glued and stitched to the outer piece, then then the whole thing glued down to the inner layer. Easier done that said. A picture of an ostrich shin inlaid 1911 holster I did recently. It's done with two layers of 5/6 oz veg tanned shoulder.

I use Weldwood contact cement, (red label) applying a smooth, even coat to each piece, allowing to dry per the label (15-20 min), align the two pieces and stick 'em together. I then roll the entire piece(s) with an old wallpaper roller to ensure full contact and then ........ let it cure for 24 hours. Never had any of the stuff come apart, even after wet molding. Been using the stuff for over 40 years. Mike

[Caffy]

FWIW from the grumpy old man; I make most of my holsters from two pieces of 4/5 or 5/6 oz leather bonded together on their flesh sides. This gives me a smooth outer surface along with a smooth inner surface. For an inlay, I simply cut the outer piece to provide a 'window' under which I place the inlaid leather. The inlaid piece is cut over-sized, glued and stitched to the outer piece, then then the whole thing glued down to the inner layer. Easier done that said. A picture of an ostrich shin inlaid 1911 holster I did recently. It's done with two layers of 5/6 oz veg tanned shoulder.

I use Weldwood contact cement, (red label) applying a smooth, even coat to each piece, allowing to dry per the label (15-20 min), align the two pieces and stick 'em together. I then roll the entire piece(s) with an old wallpaper roller to ensure full contact and then ........ let it cure for 24 hours. Never had any of the stuff come apart, even after wet molding. Been using the stuff for over 40 years. Mike

Thank you very much Mike,

I have been lining with 2 - 3 oz Veggie Tan, I will try using your method. Perhaps I am not letting my cement set up enough before putting it together.

Your holster in the photo is just beautiful!!.

Love the color and design.

[katsass]

Thank you very much Mike,

I have been lining with 2 - 3 oz Veggie Tan, I will try using your method. Perhaps I am not letting my cement set up enough before putting it together.

Your holster in the photo is just beautiful!!.

Love the color and design.

Caffy, Since I don't usually read the label anymore, it may not now indicate that for a less permanent adhesion, place the items together while the cement is still wet. It used to indicate that. Thanks for the compliment on the holster. One thing on doing inlay, you need to edge, burnish and dye the inside edges of the 'window' prior to gluing the inlay to that piece of leather and then stitching in place. Good luck. Mike

Edited October 27, 2011 by katsass

[Caffy]

Caffy, Since I don't usually read the label anymore, it may not now indicate that for a less permanent adhesion, place the items together while the cement is still wet. It used to indicate that. Thanks for the compliment on the holster. One thing on doing inlay, you need to edge, burnish and dye the inside edges of the 'window' prior to gluing the inlay to that piece of leather and then stitching in place. Good luck. Mike

Thanks Mike,

That may have been the problem. I was not letting it get tacky enough before. I didn't want to have a problem putting the Os leg on the smooth leather and having it come off on the client.

Yes, I burnish and finish all the places I could not get to easily again after putting things together. But I have not done an inlay before, so thank you for your tips and expertise. I appreciate it very much.