Top Finish

[Clay B]

Hi All!

I need a little help trying to find a top finish that has a dull or soft non-polished looking finish. I would like to have some type of protective top coat for the leather as this is for a concealed carry holster. I've tried Tandys Satin Sheen and Fiebing's Tan Kote and Fiebing's Leather Balm w/Atom Wax. I'm not having much luck as all of them seem to produce a semi-gloss to high polished sheen.

I would sure appreciate any suggestions anyone might have for a protective finish that does not leave a shine.

Thanks. Clay

[mike59]

Mornin' Clay,

I use Fiebing's Bag-Kote for the reasons you stated. I like the low satin finish it provides, as well as just a hint of mellow, non polished look.

Hi All!

I need a little help trying to find a top finish that has a dull or soft non-polished looking finish. I would like to have some type of protective top coat for the leather as this is for a concealed carry holster. I've tried Tandys Satin Sheen and Fiebing's Tan Kote and Fiebing's Leather Balm w/Atom Wax. I'm not having much luck as all of them seem to produce a semi-gloss to high polished sheen.

I would sure appreciate any suggestions anyone might have for a protective finish that does not leave a shine.

Thanks. Clay

[mike59]

This is a black buscadero I made and finished with Bag-Kote..

[Clay B]

Thank you for the picture. Very handsome look gun rig. Did you dilute the Bage Kote any or, use it straight from the bottle?

According to Fibing's book 'Fantastic Finishes' Bag Kote was invented as a leather treatment for the US Mail Carrier's mail bags some 80 years ago. From your picture I now know what type of a finish to expect. I'll pick some up. Thanks again. Clay

[mike59]

Whoa! That picture turned out really big,...sorry about that. I use it straight from the bottle, just shake it up as it will seperate some from sitting. I put it on with a wool scrap, two or three coats with about an hour in between. if you use it on antiqued pieces, he first application needs to be put on with very little pressure applied. It dries pretty fast as long as the humidity is normal. Good luck!

Thank you for the picture. Very handsome look gun rig. Did you dilute the Bage Kote any or, use it straight from the bottle?

According to Fibing's book 'Fantastic Finishes' Bag Kote was invented as a leather treatment for the US Mail Carrier's mail bags some 80 years ago. From your picture I now know what type of a finish to expect. I'll pick some up. Thanks again. Clay

[Clay B]

Whoa! That picture turned out really big,...sorry about that. I use it straight from the bottle, just shake it up as it will seperate some from sitting. I put it on with a wool scrap, two or three coats with about an hour in between. if you use it on antiqued pieces, he first application needs to be put on with very little pressure applied. It dries pretty fast as long as the humidity is normal. Good luck!

The size of the picture was just right. The close-up allowed me to be able to see the sheen of the finish.

I got to be wondering latter today about maybe just using light coat of neatfoots oil straight from the bottle for a top coat (?). Have you had any experience along thoes lines?

[MADMAX22]

Have you tried sno-seal or something along the line of picards or montana pitch blend. All of these do really well at providing protection but need to be reapplied on a regular basis depending on wear and tear. They usually result in a very mellow sheen. Its what I primarily use on everything.

[Clay B]

Have you tried sno-seal or something along the line of picards or montana pitch blend. All of these do really well at providing protection but need to be reapplied on a regular basis depending on wear and tear. They usually result in a very mellow sheen. Its what I primarily use on everything.

Thanks for the info. It seems to me that I tried Sno-Seal a long time ago and it left a oily film. Maybe I put too much on (???). But, in your experience have you found that it leaves an oily film? The holster will be worn on the belt and under a shirt or jacket and I don't want to chance the finish bleeding through the garmet. Thanks. Clay

[MADMAX22]

Thanks for the info. It seems to me that I tried Sno-Seal a long time ago and it left a oily film. Maybe I put too much on (???). But, in your experience have you found that it leaves an oily film? The holster will be worn on the belt and under a shirt or jacket and I don't want to chance the finish bleeding through the garmet. Thanks. Clay

Sorry didnt look at this thread for a while.

The way to put this on is have a nice warm place, furnace room or a hot summer day, something that will warm up the leather a tad and also the sno-seal. Apply one thin coat. At first it will be kind of oily/waxy feel. Let it sit overnight. If its nice and warm the stuff should have gone into the leather and is now relatively dry. I usually use a horse hair brush to buff it up afterwards.

Oh also if need be add a second thin coat to it on the second day if it seems like it really needs it. Just dont over do it.

[CTS]

This may be covered on another thread and if so post the link. As much as I like the look and flexibility of Fiebings Acrylic Resolene, I am really tired of it NOT living up to it's claims and the HOURS of wasted time I spend with it.

I make custom instrument straps for recording artists: Guitar, Banjo, Mandolin, etc. My clients need straps that they can flex, roll up, bend shove into a case and even play outdoors where they chance getting caught in an occasional rainstorm.

I have been working leather since the 1970s and have used such products as Omega, Neat, Tandy Pro, Fiebings, and Eco-Flow dyes, and antiques. I have used Neat-Lac, Satin Shene, Super Shene, Neat Shene, as well as Acrylic Resolene.

Neat Lac does not allow much flexibility and after a short time you get a wrinkled, crackled finish that needs to be re-done.

All of the "shenes" and "Resolenes" I have used give a nice Satin Finish - which I like, but the bottom line they all remove color (even the ones that say they do not) and if you only use a few light coats, water still washes off color or spots the finish so bad it has to be re-done.

I need a top coat finish FOR LEATHER that is FLEXIBLE, gives some Satin Shine, DOES NOT remove the hours of applying detailed colors and stains I worked to achieve, and one that is REALLY WATER REPELLANT. I need to know how long it will hold up. My clients don't have time to keep re-applying or conditioning a strap every few weeks or so as some conditioners recommend.

If some of you know of such a finish, that can be applied BY HAND. Please let me know.

Thanks!

~CT

[marine mp]

ClayB and CTS..... make up your own potient. Mix by weight, not volume and rub it in just like you were spit-shining a boot. 1/3rd part bees-wax, 1/3rd part parrafin wax (canning wax) 1/3 part neatsfoot . Waterproof, won't crack, not shiny, cheap!!!!!!! Semper-fi Mike

[BigRiverLeather]

I just ordered a 4oz bottle of Angelus #620 Matte Finish Acrylic. When I get it and test it, I will post my results.

[MADMAX22]

CTS that is the reason I use sno-seal or similar (my own creation as stated above also). It works pretty darn well to protect the leather and if your not going out in the elements everyday doesnt need to be reapplied that often. It doesnt get that cracked finish look when it gets flexed. I really dont use anything else anymore.

[TwinOaks]

I've started using the home-brew that Katsass mentioned on here, and have good results. (Mop-n-glo)

I've only had wrinkling/cracking w/ neatlac when it was put on too heavy. A light coat, rubbed in, hasn't peeled/cracked/wrinkled anymore than plain leather. The EDC pouch I made for my leatherman was finished with resolene and after drying and wearing off the 'tacky' feel to it, it has remained almost like the day I built it. There's some wear from rubbing on the fiberglass bucket on my work truck, but the leather is in excellent condition.

CTS:

If you're using the ECO colors, about the ONLY way you're gonna get a good even coating on your work, without rubbing it off, is to spray it on. Also, pretty much any of the water based ECO dyes are gonna run with exposure to water. The only ways to waterproof leather are: Wax finish, lacquer finish, plastic finish, or use chrome tanned leather that's color fast. Before you give up on the acrylic finishes, try spraying (with an airbrush) at least two coats, with appropriate drying time between them.

[Tina]

I use Angelus Matte finish when I don't need no shine. I apply it with an airgun and it comes out great. The most inexspensive place I have found it in is:

http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/miscellaneous-products.html (scroll down a wee bit more than half the page to..."Acryllich Finishers"

[Clay B]

Thank you everyone for responding. I just got back home from a unexpected trip out of state to help a family member. Clay

[SpecialKaye]

This may be covered on another thread and if so post the link. As much as I like the look and flexibility of Fiebings Acrylic Resolene, I am really tired of it NOT living up to it's claims and the HOURS of wasted time I spend with it.

I make custom instrument straps for recording artists: Guitar, Banjo, Mandolin, etc. My clients need straps that they can flex, roll up, bend shove into a case and even play outdoors where they chance getting caught in an occasional rainstorm.

I have been working leather since the 1970s and have used such products as Omega, Neat, Tandy Pro, Fiebings, and Eco-Flow dyes, and antiques. I have used Neat-Lac, Satin Shene, Super Shene, Neat Shene, as well as Acrylic Resolene.

Neat Lac does not allow much flexibility and after a short time you get a wrinkled, crackled finish that needs to be re-done.

All of the "shenes" and "Resolenes" I have used give a nice Satin Finish - which I like, but the bottom line they all remove color (even the ones that say they do not) and if you only use a few light coats, water still washes off color or spots the finish so bad it has to be re-done.

I need a top coat finish FOR LEATHER that is FLEXIBLE, gives some Satin Shine, DOES NOT remove the hours of applying detailed colors and stains I worked to achieve, and one that is REALLY WATER REPELLANT. I need to know how long it will hold up. My clients don't have time to keep re-applying or conditioning a strap every few weeks or so as some conditioners recommend.

If some of you know of such a finish, that can be applied BY HAND. Please let me know.

Thanks!

~CT

ClayB and CTS..... make up your own potient. Mix by weight, not volume and rub it in just like you were spit-shining a boot. 1/3rd part bees-wax, 1/3rd part parrafin wax (canning wax) 1/3 part neatsfoot . Waterproof, won't crack, not shiny, cheap!!!!!!! Semper-fi Mike

Well now, I'm starting to design a guitar strap and was wondering about a finish. I plan to try this concoction if I can find a local source for the beeswax and see how it works. Sounds about perfect.