Edge Waxing Question

[rccolt45]

Hi guys,

I have read the edging post in the "how to section" and am stuck on the waxing. Basicly I got some bars of parafin wax and am not sure how to apply it.

After you do glisirin soap and saddle soap steps how do you put the wax on? Do you just rub the bar on the edge then burnish on a wheel or put the wax on the wheel then burnish the edge, or do you melt the wax then put it on the edge then bunish. and lastely when do you put the edge kote on before or after waxing?

[JRLeather2]

I use beeswax. I moisten the edge with a damp sponge then rub the beeswax in to the edge. I then burnish with my machine or by hand with a heavy peice of canvas that I have for that purpose.

[Lobo]

I like a 50/50 mixture of parrafin and beeswax. I just rub it onto the edges, then burnish on a hard felt polishing wheel turning in a drill press. Takes about one minute per holster, belt, pouch, etc.

[Rayban]

I like a 50/50 mixture of parrafin and beeswax. I just rub it onto the edges, then burnish on a hard felt polishing wheel turning in a drill press. Takes about one minute per holster, belt, pouch, etc.

Can you buy bars/cakes/chunks of 50/50?

[rccolt45]

When you put on your 50/50 mix is it hard in a bar or soft in a melted type form?

[Lobo]

Well, it looks like there is a fair amount of interest in this subject, so I will share what I have found to work in my shop.

Both parrafin and beeswax are readily available at craft stores or any place offering candle-making supplies. There are on-line sources, and quite a few eBay sellers offering beeswax.

Beeswax is very soft. Parrafin is quite hard and brittle. Blended together, they make a nice pliable and easily used material.

The parrafin can be melted easily in a pan at moderate temperature, then the beeswax is added and allowed to melt. Keep temperatures at the minimum to get the waxes to combine and stir together. Higher temperatures result in vapors, and the waxes are flammable.

A muffin pan with cavities lined with aluminum foil or waxed paper can be used to pour out the molten wax mixture in little cakes of about 2 ounces each. Candle-making suppliers can provide shallow plastic trays that are disposable after one use. After it sets up it is fairly hard, but responds to the warmth of your hand and can be molded and worked as needed. Mine always seem to end up molded into a ball shape during use. When the remaining portion becomes too small to easily use it can simply be mashed into the next piece, so there is really no waste.

Prices on beeswax vary, but a pound is usually $10.00 or so. Parrafin is quite inexpensive. One pound of each, combined, will make 16 cakes of 2 ounces each. One will be enough for 100 or more holsters, belts, etc, so the overall cost is neglibible. Less than an hour's effort will make enough to last a long time.

To apply the wax mixture just rub it onto the edges to be burnished. The leather fibers will pick up the wax easily. Only a light to moderate application is needed. Avoid using too much. If the burnished edge requires more wax, just rub on a bit more and then put it onto the polishing wheel again.

Felt polishing wheels come in several hardnesses; soft, medium, hard, and rock hard. I recommend the "hard" which do a very good job and last much longer than the softer felt. I buy these from Duro-Felt Products (www.durofelt.com) as cylindrical polishing bobs 1" in diameter and 1" length with a 1/8" shank built in, at about $1.50 each (in dozen quantities). Many other sizes and shapes are available. I like the 1" diameter because it allows me to get into the tighter inside curves. My last order was for 3 dozen over a year ago, and I still have about 20 or so on hand. Those of you using Dremel tools will find that the 1/8" shank will fit your chucks.

Each will last for about 150 to 200 uses before becoming overly worn. The hard felt acts much like fine sandpaper on the leather edges, and turning in the drill press makes the polishing action build up heat to melt the wax and force it into the leather fibers. You may even see a little smoky vapor rising from the work. If your edges are well sanded down and dyed before burnishing you should have a very slick finished edge. A smaller holster or pouch might take a minute; larger holsters might take two minutes. A long belt might take four or five minutes. My apprentice easily burnishes two dozen items in well under an hour (then gripes all day about the residue on her hands). As the polishing bob is used there will be small grooves formed that conform to the edges being burnished.

If you are doing different colors I recommend using one felt polishing bob for each color to avoid unwanted color transfer.

I once discussed this with an older lady (widow, fixed income) at my club who makes candles as a hobby. She expressed some interest, so I have had her making up my wax mixture for me. I pay her $2.00 per 2-ounce cake (which delights her every time) and I don't have to mess around with it. All I have to do is call the nice lady when I see my supply running low, and within a week I have another batch.

Maybe I should branch out a bit and start offering burnishing kits with wax and felt polishing wheels?

Best regards.

Edited May 15, 2011 by Lobo

[Rayban]

Lobo, as usual, you come through with a very thorough and insightful piece of info. Thanks much....

May I be your firstest taker on the wax/felt polishing wheel kit? I'm ready to roll with Dremel at arms reach. I also have a small drill dedicated for such chores...

Thanks again,

RG

Edited May 15, 2011 by Rayban

[Eaglestroker]

Hey Ray, I've made my own mixture but would be willing to buy a 'kit' simply to have it. Would love to send her some more business as well and I sure made a mess of my kitchen during the last mixing process!

I started with straight beeswax but after trying the 50/50 mix and seeing it's results it is definitely a much better finished product.

[Tac]

+1 for a "Kit", Ray!

I have a drill press that I don't use and could leave chucked with it... Right now, I am doing it all by hand (canvas method) and I don't have the desire to mess with the 50/50 wax making process...

Let me know what the price is and where to send the check/money order! :-)

-Tac

[rccolt45]

Ray put me down for one. Much easier then doing it all yourself and worth the money in time and effort saved.