Edge Waxing Question

[rccolt45]

Hi guys,

I have read the edging post in the "how to section" and am stuck on the waxing. Basicly I got some bars of parafin wax and am not sure how to apply it.

After you do glisirin soap and saddle soap steps how do you put the wax on? Do you just rub the bar on the edge then burnish on a wheel or put the wax on the wheel then burnish the edge, or do you melt the wax then put it on the edge then bunish. and lastely when do you put the edge kote on before or after waxing?

[JRLeather2]

I use beeswax. I moisten the edge with a damp sponge then rub the beeswax in to the edge. I then burnish with my machine or by hand with a heavy peice of canvas that I have for that purpose.

[Lobo]

I like a 50/50 mixture of parrafin and beeswax. I just rub it onto the edges, then burnish on a hard felt polishing wheel turning in a drill press. Takes about one minute per holster, belt, pouch, etc.

[Rayban]

I like a 50/50 mixture of parrafin and beeswax. I just rub it onto the edges, then burnish on a hard felt polishing wheel turning in a drill press. Takes about one minute per holster, belt, pouch, etc.

Can you buy bars/cakes/chunks of 50/50?

[rccolt45]

When you put on your 50/50 mix is it hard in a bar or soft in a melted type form?

[Lobo]

Well, it looks like there is a fair amount of interest in this subject, so I will share what I have found to work in my shop.

Both parrafin and beeswax are readily available at craft stores or any place offering candle-making supplies. There are on-line sources, and quite a few eBay sellers offering beeswax.

Beeswax is very soft. Parrafin is quite hard and brittle. Blended together, they make a nice pliable and easily used material.

The parrafin can be melted easily in a pan at moderate temperature, then the beeswax is added and allowed to melt. Keep temperatures at the minimum to get the waxes to combine and stir together. Higher temperatures result in vapors, and the waxes are flammable.

A muffin pan with cavities lined with aluminum foil or waxed paper can be used to pour out the molten wax mixture in little cakes of about 2 ounces each. Candle-making suppliers can provide shallow plastic trays that are disposable after one use. After it sets up it is fairly hard, but responds to the warmth of your hand and can be molded and worked as needed. Mine always seem to end up molded into a ball shape during use. When the remaining portion becomes too small to easily use it can simply be mashed into the next piece, so there is really no waste.

Prices on beeswax vary, but a pound is usually $10.00 or so. Parrafin is quite inexpensive. One pound of each, combined, will make 16 cakes of 2 ounces each. One will be enough for 100 or more holsters, belts, etc, so the overall cost is neglibible. Less than an hour's effort will make enough to last a long time.

To apply the wax mixture just rub it onto the edges to be burnished. The leather fibers will pick up the wax easily. Only a light to moderate application is needed. Avoid using too much. If the burnished edge requires more wax, just rub on a bit more and then put it onto the polishing wheel again.

Felt polishing wheels come in several hardnesses; soft, medium, hard, and rock hard. I recommend the "hard" which do a very good job and last much longer than the softer felt. I buy these from Duro-Felt Products (www.durofelt.com) as cylindrical polishing bobs 1" in diameter and 1" length with a 1/8" shank built in, at about $1.50 each (in dozen quantities). Many other sizes and shapes are available. I like the 1" diameter because it allows me to get into the tighter inside curves. My last order was for 3 dozen over a year ago, and I still have about 20 or so on hand. Those of you using Dremel tools will find that the 1/8" shank will fit your chucks.

Each will last for about 150 to 200 uses before becoming overly worn. The hard felt acts much like fine sandpaper on the leather edges, and turning in the drill press makes the polishing action build up heat to melt the wax and force it into the leather fibers. You may even see a little smoky vapor rising from the work. If your edges are well sanded down and dyed before burnishing you should have a very slick finished edge. A smaller holster or pouch might take a minute; larger holsters might take two minutes. A long belt might take four or five minutes. My apprentice easily burnishes two dozen items in well under an hour (then gripes all day about the residue on her hands). As the polishing bob is used there will be small grooves formed that conform to the edges being burnished.

If you are doing different colors I recommend using one felt polishing bob for each color to avoid unwanted color transfer.

I once discussed this with an older lady (widow, fixed income) at my club who makes candles as a hobby. She expressed some interest, so I have had her making up my wax mixture for me. I pay her $2.00 per 2-ounce cake (which delights her every time) and I don't have to mess around with it. All I have to do is call the nice lady when I see my supply running low, and within a week I have another batch.

Maybe I should branch out a bit and start offering burnishing kits with wax and felt polishing wheels?

Best regards.

Edited May 15, 2011 by Lobo

[Rayban]

Lobo, as usual, you come through with a very thorough and insightful piece of info. Thanks much....

May I be your firstest taker on the wax/felt polishing wheel kit? I'm ready to roll with Dremel at arms reach. I also have a small drill dedicated for such chores...

Thanks again,

RG

Edited May 15, 2011 by Rayban

[Eaglestroker]

Hey Ray, I've made my own mixture but would be willing to buy a 'kit' simply to have it. Would love to send her some more business as well and I sure made a mess of my kitchen during the last mixing process!

I started with straight beeswax but after trying the 50/50 mix and seeing it's results it is definitely a much better finished product.

[Tac]

+1 for a "Kit", Ray!

I have a drill press that I don't use and could leave chucked with it... Right now, I am doing it all by hand (canvas method) and I don't have the desire to mess with the 50/50 wax making process...

Let me know what the price is and where to send the check/money order! :-)

-Tac

[rccolt45]

Ray put me down for one. Much easier then doing it all yourself and worth the money in time and effort saved.

[billymac814]

I ruined a pan the last time I made some so I'd be up for purchasing some pre-made. Thanks for sharing the info, I'm going to look into the felt polishing wheels, I spend way more than a minute or two on each holster, and as of now I beleive I spend more time on my edges than any part of the build process.

Lobo, Is that your entire edge finishing process, just edge, wax and use the felt wheel?

Billy

I just went to Duro-Felts website and it isn't really simple to order from, especially at 11:30pm, I found though that they have an eBay store and the prices are about the same once shipping is included.

Edited May 17, 2011 by billymac814

[Lobo]

I ruined a pan the last time I made some so I'd be up for purchasing some pre-made. Thanks for sharing the info, I'm going to look into the felt polishing wheels, I spend way more than a minute or two on each holster, and as of now I beleive I spend more time on my edges than any part of the build process.

Lobo, Is that your entire edge finishing process, just edge, wax and use the felt wheel?

Billy

I just went to Duro-Felts website and it isn't really simple to order from, especially at 11:30pm, I found though that they have an eBay store and the prices are about the same once shipping is included.

Billy:

My edge finishing process starts with dressing down the edges smoothly using drum sanders (I dampen the leather first to reduce airborne dust), then beveling the edges, then dyeing, then rub on the wax mixture and burnish on the hard felt polishing wheel. After that the final finishes are applied. That's it.

I've used wooden burnishing tools, thread spools with grooves cut for various profiles, and other methods. The hard felt polishing wheels are the best option I have found. Very easy to use, fast and consistent results, minimum effort required. Combined with the wax mixture described, this is almost idiot-proof.

I would not recommend using good cooking utensils for making up the wax mixture. Just about any Goodwill store or second hand shop should have a few old pots and pans, maybe a muffin tin or two, at much less cost than listening to complaints about what you've done to the household items.

Duro Felt's website ordering process was a bit convoluted, as I recall, but they have been responsive and got my orders out quickly. Once there was a question, and their rep called me to make sure they got the order right. I have been pleased with their products and service.

Edited May 17, 2011 by Lobo

[billymac814]

Billy:

My edge finishing process starts with dressing down the edges smoothly using drum sanders (I dampen the leather first to reduce airborne dust), then beveling the edges, then dyeing, then rub on the wax mixture and burnish on the hard felt polishing wheel. After that the final finishes are applied. That's it.

I've used wooden burnishing tools, thread spools with grooves cut for various profiles, and other methods. The hard felt polishing wheels are the best option I have found. Very easy to use, fast and consistent results, minimum effort required. Combined with the wax mixture described, this is almost idiot-proof.

I would not recommend using good cooking utensils for making up the wax mixture. Just about any Goodwill store or second hand shop should have a few old pots and pans, maybe a muffin tin or two, at much less cost than listening to complaints about what you've done to the household items.

Duro Felt's website ordering process was a bit convoluted, as I recall, but they have been responsive and got my orders out quickly. Once there was a question, and their rep called me to make sure they got the order right. I have been pleased with their products and service.

Thank you for sharing, I ordered a few of those felt bobs from thier eBay store last night, I'll call them next time to place an order for larger amounts.

I definately have a dedicated pot to melt wax in now. I've just been making it in small batches by putting equal pieces into a bag and then in boiling water, the one time the bag broke and the wax went through the water and stuck to the pan. I was able to run the water through a filter and save most of the wax, but there was no saving the pan. Next time I'll make bigger batches, I wasn't aware beeswax could be had so cheap, I always just picked up those 1oz bars that are well overpriced and since it lasts so long I never really checked for bigger quantities.

Right now I sand the edges with a belt sander or drum, bevel, use a sanding sponge very quickly, slick with glycerin soap, dye, a little more soap, then wax and onto the wooden burnishing thing, then the finish. I would be happy to cut down some of the time, sometimes I don't need to go through all of those steps to get good results but it generally takes longer than I'd like.

Hopefully in a few days I'll have the felt bobs and try that out, thanks again for sharing.

[wvcraftsman]

What a fantastic topic.

Thanks for the great write up. What finish do you use after burnishing?

Tom

[Shooter McGavin]

I use the same wax mixture that Lobo uses. I've been applying it to the edge after the dye is done, then using a wood stick to rub it in, sometimes hitting it with a quick blast from a heat gun.

After reading Lobo's post yesterday though, I called and ordered a 6 pack of the felt wheels as recommended. Anxiously awaiting them so I can give them a whirl.

[Rayban]

I use the same wax mixture that Lobo uses. I've been applying it to the edge after the dye is done, then using a wood stick to rub it in, sometimes hitting it with a quick blast from a heat gun.

After reading Lobo's post yesterday though, I called and ordered a 6 pack of the felt wheels as recommended. Anxiously awaiting them so I can give them a whirl.

Are these the type polishing wheels you're referring to?

http://cgi.ebay.com/DREMEL-FELT-POLISHING-WHEEL-1-2-LOT-2-414-/180501677794?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a06bd06e2

[Shooter McGavin]

Are these the type polishing wheels you're referring to?

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item2a06bd06e2

I tried those, all the did was get stuck in my eye. I think theyre too soft.

More similar to this, but the ones I ordered are 1 inch diameter by 1" long, with a 1/8" shank

http://www.foredom.net/amp8.aspx

[billymac814]

Here are similar ones from the Duro felt company, but they aren't the 1"x1"x1/8", I couldn't find them again today. I ordered some hard 1x1x1/4 since I'll use them in my drill press and some other small ones for in a dremel. http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Felt-Hard-Cylinder-Polishing-Bobs-3-4-x-1-5-x-1-8-/250796954871?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a64a9d4f7

You can go to their ebay store from there as well, they have a bunch of sizes, thier prices are cheaper on ebay but you have to pay a few bucks for shipping so it works out to being the same as what's on thier site, unless you order large quantities anyway. I got 6 to try and if I like them I'll call and order directly next time.

[pete]

I have a standard dremel. It has about 5-6 speed settings, but the slowest one is really fast. Is it too fast for finishing with wax? Do you all use a standard dremel for this?

pete

[billymac814]

I have a standard dremel. It has about 5-6 speed settings, but the slowest one is really fast. Is it too fast for finishing with wax? Do you all use a standard dremel for this?

pete

I would think it would be fine, Lobo mentioned a bit of smoke coming from it, I would think it's moving pretty fast for that much heat.

On a side note, after writing down all my edge finishing steps I wanted to see how many I could eliminate and still get good results and I found that I can completely eliminate the glycerine soap steps and just sand and bevel and while a little damp burnish with my hardwood spindle thing in my drill press at a pretty fast speed, rub the wax on and go over again on the spindle. I get just as good edges as I did before if not better.

I haven't recieved the felt wheels yet from durofelt but I found one at a surplus store yesterday and tried it and didn't have very good results, I'm going to wait until the other ones come and see if those ones are better. I'm sure it was either the bob or the way I was doing it.

[katsass]

Are these the type polishing wheels you're referring to?

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item2a06bd06e2

Rayban, I use this type of felt wheel in the 1" size for applying dye to my edges prior to burnishing......(without being in the Dremel! Just the felt pad alone) I haven't found a better way to get an even edge than with these. I saturate one of them in the dye, then just run it at 90 degrees (it vertical ... the edge horizontal) along the edge of whatever I'm dying. It runs true and always covers the edge perfectly. OH, wear gloves or you end up with purty fingers. Mike

Edited May 19, 2011 by katsass

[Rayban]

Cool Idea Katsass....I'll try that.

ANYBODY willing to sell me a cake or two of that Beezwax/Paraffin mix so I can try it out........I can't boil water.....

[billymac814]

Cool Idea Katsass....I'll try that.

ANYBODY willing to sell me a cake or two of that Beezwax/Paraffin mix so I can try it out........I can't boil water.....

I'm down to a little tiny ball so I'll probably be making some soon, I always made it in very small amounts by putting equal pieces into a freezer bag then putting it in boiling water, thinner bags will break and then wax will get all through the water and all over the pan.

Now that I have a dedicated pan and after reading Lobos post about the larger quantities of Beeswax available on eBay I ordered 2 pounds of it so I'm going to make a larger batch. I can send you some once it's done, it'll probably be a few days if you don't mind waiting.

[Rayban]

I'm down to a little tiny ball so I'll probably be making some soon, I always made it in very small amounts by putting equal pieces into a freezer bag then putting it in boiling water, thinner bags will break and then wax will get all through the water and all over the pan.

Now that I have a dedicated pan and after reading Lobos post about the larger quantities of Beeswax available on eBay I ordered 2 pounds of it so I'm going to make a larger batch. I can send you some once it's done, it'll probably be a few days if you don't mind waiting.

That would be greatly appreciated!! I can wait..I've been pleased with my method but always willing to try something new.

Thanks again!

RG

[billymac814]

I figured I'd add something to this in case anyone else gets the idea, or maybe someone already knows how to do it. I bought a few pounds of beeswax from ebay and made a rather big batch of the beeswax/paraffin blend. I also just read the other post where it said about a Lou Alessi using colored wax for the edges so I figured I'd try to make some black and a dark brown. I poured the melted wax into small candy cups and then added a little bit of black dye to one and brown to the other, I mixed it well and put into the fridge to speed up the cooling. After I peeled the wrapper off I found that the dye made it's way to the bottom and didn't stay mixed very well, the wax was colored but it was rather messy to work with so it went right into the trash. It seemed like a good idea at first but it wasn't. Luckily I didn't try it with a big batch.

I figured I'd let everyone know as both threads were rather close to one another, I'm sure someone else thought about it. There must be a way of doing it, but probably not the way I did it.