Three More Off The Bench

[TwinOaks]

In the spirit of the other Mike's post, one of the reasons for NOT molding inside the trigger guard is that it subjects that bit of leather to additional wear. If you're lining the holsters, that's one thing, but if it's just flesh side, then regardless of how well you smoothed/slicked it, it will eventually get fuzzy. And just my opinion, but the fire control portion of any gun is the wrong place to be gaining fuzzies. There's also the small point that if that is part of the tension of the holster, then as it wears, and the leather gets 'flexible' where the trigger guard slides past it, your holster will lose tension/retention. If you look at the pinned holster tutorial in the beginning of this sub-forum (the one by Jim Simmons), he teaches how to measure the gun and build the holster to that measurement. The holster is sized to be slightly spread laterally by the width of the cylinder, and axially by the height of the frame from trigger guard to top strap, but never to the point that the leather is 'rubbed raw'. The result is that the whole holster grips the gun, along more of the gun, not one or two specific areas that may be prone to breakdown from repeated use.

[Sanch]

TwinOaks thank-you for your reply and the lateral spread at the cylinder you speak of is actually what is holding the weapons and mininising the wear around the guard areas and keeping the trigger clear of any unwanted squeeze the intent was to bring out the silluet (sp) of the guard and trigger, also the boning down the barrels and ejector are there to aid in retention. I am aware there will be some wear in both of the aforesaid areas. I by no stretch of the imagination am professing or assuming to know anything other than these are my attempts to learn this craft /artform, also I am accepting all criticism open arms so that I can learn. So to you sir once again thank you for sharing in my education. Stealf ..

Edited May 17, 2011 by stealfdawg

[Sanch]

From my very limited works I've found that molding the trigger in from the backside can greatly increase your retention without causing the front lines to loose aesthetically. Kind of like in my recent K frame thread for reference. I personally like the front of the trigger or at least a portion to be exposed.

To the OP, the Ruger carving is very nice. If you back off on the molding some It would make it an extremely attractive holster as well!

Thanks and will trying boning the backside more and the front less on my next auto holster . Dont see anymore wheel guns in the next couple of weeks.