Members The Farmers Daughter Posted June 5, 2011 Members Report Posted June 5, 2011 I am attempting to replace old saddle strings with new and have replaced the leather conchos and have just purchased beautiful new silver domed conchos with screw backs. The problem is I can only get them screwed in about half way by using my bare hands. Can some one tell me how to get them screwed in flat? I don't think I can physically do it with out a tool, but I was worried that a wrench will mar the finished silver and the scalloped edge of the conchos themselves. Could really use some help here guys! Quote
Members The Farmers Daughter Posted June 5, 2011 Author Members Report Posted June 5, 2011 Really, come on ... there must be a saddle smith or 2 here with some advice....? Quote
Ambassador Luke Hatley Posted June 5, 2011 Ambassador Report Posted June 5, 2011 Really, come on ... there must be a saddle smith or 2 here with some advice....? NOT a Saddlesmith, but been there done that....I have used an AWL to pre form the Hole that the screw on the concho will go in. The best way to instal the concho is to have a "Concho Turner" i do know they can be bought at Proleptic.com. some one else might know of other places to purchase Quote
Moderator bruce johnson Posted June 5, 2011 Moderator Report Posted June 5, 2011 I predrill pilot holes for my screws about with a smaller bit than the shank of the screw. That way I still end up with some bind on the shank. I set the depth so the last 1/4" of screw is not drilled for more bind. That is just the way a coupole guys have shared with me. When I go to seat one, I use a pair of channel-lock pliers with taped jaws. I have a pro-concho turner and it works alright if the hole is fairly loose (like on a repair). I can't get it to really seat one though. It works a lot better for me to back out old conchos. One thing to be aware of is that if the hole is not at 90 degrees to the surface. As you get close you will end up with a bit of a problem. A rawhide mallet will ususally bend over that edge of the concho to make it flush. Also some conchos don't have the screw soldered on at 90 degrees and you need to be aware of that and compensate with the mallet, so I have been told. Quote
Members The Farmers Daughter Posted June 5, 2011 Author Members Report Posted June 5, 2011 I predrill pilot holes for my screws about with a smaller bit than the shank of the screw. That way I still end up with some bind on the shank. I set the depth so the last 1/4" of screw is not drilled for more bind. That is just the way a coupole guys have shared with me. When I go to seat one, I use a pair of channel-lock pliers with taped jaws. I have a pro-concho turner and it works alright if the hole is fairly loose (like on a repair). I can't get it to really seat one though. It works a lot better for me to back out old conchos. One thing to be aware of is that if the hole is not at 90 degrees to the surface. As you get close you will end up with a bit of a problem. A rawhide mallet will ususally bend over that edge of the concho to make it flush. Also some conchos don't have the screw soldered on at 90 degrees and you need to be aware of that and compensate with the mallet, so I have been told. Bruce - Thanks for the info. I was curious to know what you tape your pliers with. I tried with with channel locks and a rag, but that didn't give me enough grip. Quote
Moderator bruce johnson Posted June 5, 2011 Moderator Report Posted June 5, 2011 I use electrician's tape. You have to be careful on some conchos. The real thin cheap conchos will collapse if you grip them very hard. Quote
Members The Farmers Daughter Posted June 5, 2011 Author Members Report Posted June 5, 2011 Thanks Luke and Bruce. I will post a photo when I get done bulldogging this sucker. Quote
Members AdamTill Posted June 6, 2011 Members Report Posted June 6, 2011 I've never tried to use a screw on concho before, but could you try finding a Robertson wood screw with the same thread pitch and shank diameter? You could cut the threads with the screw first, then follow in with the concho afterwards. Quote
Members The Farmers Daughter Posted June 13, 2011 Author Members Report Posted June 13, 2011 Update - I got the 4 screw on conchos and saddle strings replaced. I confess, it was a little harder than I thought it would be. Now how the heck do you get the little ones out that are under the swells and in the rear by the cantle binding? Those are in there tight and flush. Is there a trick to that? Quote
Members oldtimer Posted June 14, 2011 Members Report Posted June 14, 2011 I modified a pair of pliers to handle the screw conchas, bent the tips to get a good grip on the edge of the conchas. / Knut Quote
Members The Farmers Daughter Posted June 14, 2011 Author Members Report Posted June 14, 2011 I modified a pair of pliers to handle the screw conchas, bent the tips to get a good grip on the edge of the conchas. / Knut Hi Knut - That is a good idea. How did you modify them? They look perfect. Quote
Members oldtimer Posted June 14, 2011 Members Report Posted June 14, 2011 I found the pliers on a flea market, very cheap, and I just bought it !! Then one day I got concha problems, how to get those bastards out as I don´t have a concha turner, and I got a bright idea ( It doesn´t happen every day !) I heatad the tips cherry red with a flame and bent them carefully to desired shape on an anvil with a with a small hammer, then I quenched them in water, a five minute job, no big deal. A minute on the polishing wheel and - voilá ! This set of pliers works well and has a good grip on the conchas. You have to be careful when turning the conchas not to make ugly marks on the leather concha below, but it will handle the most stubborn concha. ( One of my simpler tricks, actually! ) / Knut Quote
Members impulse Posted June 15, 2011 Members Report Posted June 15, 2011 I modified a pair of pliers to handle the screw conchas, bent the tips to get a good grip on the edge of the conchas. / Knut Similar thinking to me, but I use surgical tissue forceps which have the ideal inward curve, are made of stainless steel and are very strong. Find them on ebay costing around $8 to $9 for size 8-10" . Cheers Lois Quote
Members The Farmers Daughter Posted June 15, 2011 Author Members Report Posted June 15, 2011 Similar thinking to me, but I use surgical tissue forceps which have the ideal inward curve, are made of stainless steel and are very strong. Find them on ebay costing around $8 to $9 for size 8-10" . Cheers Lois Brilliant! Thanks Quote
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