Opinions On These Pancake Designs...

[Wareagle50]

what do yall think i should change? the orange one is for a G27. the white one is a Walther P22. Ill be useing horse hide on these. They are for my BIL.

[particle]

Make sure the top edge of the holster doesn't interfere with getting a good combat grip on the firearm. You want to make sure you can still wrap your fingers around the pistol's grip without the holster getting in the way. Also, I don't think you've allowed yourself enough room for a stitch line around the firearm. You need to allow, at a minimum, 1/2 the thickness of the firearm. Measure the thickness of the slide, then divide that by two, then add about 1/8" - use that for your offset around your firearm for the stitch line. Your sweat shields seem a bit large to me as well. Also, you might want to rethink the cut-out area above the trigger. There's really no need to expose the trigger guard like that - bring the top of the holster just below the mag release. On the orange one - assuming your bold black lines indicate where you want to place the slots, you'll need more clearance above the sloth under the grip - remember that you'll have a stitch line running around the perimeter of the holster - make sure you leave enough room around the slot, or you'll have a weak spot that could easily tear with use. The only other word of advise that I could offer is this - since this is the first time you'll be making a holster from these patterns, I'd start off with some scrap leather instead of the more expensive horse hide. Assume you won't get it right the first time and consider your first attempt as practice pieces - especially since you're making them for someone else.

[Big O]

Everything particle said.

AND.....

I'd make the sweat shield flush with the back and top edges of the slide, and extend about 1/4" down from the bottom, because it's going to shift a bit when translated from paper to leather.

Also, I'd make the bottom edge of the holster flush with the end of the slide.

For the grip clearance, make sure you have it on BOTH the front and back pieces of the holster. Don't forget the thumb vs. sweat shield clearance, either.

There's no carved-in-stone rule that says belt slots MUST be either straight, or vertical, only that they allow a belt of a particular width to pass through both of them at the same angle. I'd consider angling that front slot to be closer to parallel with the top of the slide. This would allow more leather to be trapped between belt and body for more stability.

Your designs have some nice curves to them. No corners. Sweet!

[Wareagle50]

Thanks yall, I think im following what you mean. Im gonna try to tweak them per your suggestions. When I allow for the stitch lines, do I add 1/2 the thickness plus 1/8" to the whole width of my holster ?

[Big O]

Thanks yall, I think im following what you mean. Im gonna try to tweak them per your suggestions. When I allow for the stitch lines, do I add 1/2 the thickness plus 1/8" to the whole width of my holster ?

No, that's the distance you go out from the outline of the gun on your pattern.

Let's say that your slide is exactly one inch wide. You'd set a compass or wing divider with the tips 5/8" apart, and follow the outline of the gun on both the slide-top side and the trigger-guard side, making a parallel line exactly 5/8" from the outline of the gun.

Without a compass or wing divider, you'd take a ruler and plot points on the pattern that same distance out, and draw in the line by hand.

The reason for the half-width of the slide offset is because two halves make a whole, and you have to allow for the space the gun itself will take up. The reason for the 1/8" extra is because you have to allow for the thickness of the leather itself taking up some space, and 8/9 oz leather is about 1/8" thick.

That half + thickness clearance is what will allow you to fit the gun in the holster after it's stitched, and to remove it after molding, without the need for a winch or hydraulic press.......

(If your stitching is EXACTLY right, there may be a need for some colorful language during the insertion phase. Just a wee little bit, though.)

[Wareagle50]

Ok, that makes pefect sense now. Thank you both.

[woodandsteel]

I agree with everything that Particle and Big O said.

You might also find you need more space between the gun and the belt slots, by the time it's molded to the gun.

You also will probably need the slots to be wider and longer than expected.

A third thing I'd recommend, but it's purely a preference matter, is to not have it extend so high up the slide in the front, to make for an easier draw, and possibly more comfortable fit on the belt. I only suggest these from my own mistakes.

[nas]

you will need some pretty severe forward cant on the g26 holster, i know because i have a g26, to get a good purchase on the nub of a grip they have. you can cut out the holster pattern from constuction paper, and you can staple it along the stitch line. stick the gun in and see if you have any interference with the rear wing and getting a good grip on the gun. better than wasting time and leather to figure out you can't grip the gun firmly. although i have only made 5 holsters, i have already leaned the hardway to take extra time in the design process even making mockup holster like stated to make sure my design is how i want it. so many things change between 2D patterns and 3D holsters.

[Wareagle50]

Yes thank you Nas, thats a great idea. Im starting over from scratch. I want these to be as close to perfect as im able to get them.