Relly Report post Posted July 8, 2011 Okay, here it is, Relly's second marvelous bag of random topics: On making straps: - The Tandy Lace Cutter is called "lace cutter" and not "strap cutter" for good reason. You can make straps with it - just not nice, even straps on 6 oz leather. - A Weaver hand-cranked strap cutter looks like the cat's whiskers. It costs $1300. Too bad. An electric strap cutter costs $2300. Even worse. - The hand rotary cutters (knives) are garbage for most uses (my view), but a box cutter with a decent grip has yet to disappoint. - Home Improvement stores sell carpenter squares and clamps. Clamp that square down and cutting a straight edge gets lots easier. - a Dremel can take the sharp edge off straps, but a half moon knife makes prettier, larger bevels. - a Weaver strap edge beveler can cost up to $2200. That's a month's wages for simple folk like me. Ouch. I wanted some Weaver tools real bad, but not bad enough to sell a kidney, you know? My hand tools work just as well, but not nearly as fast. Good useable hand tools cost about $10 each. Bracelets with snaps: - Line 20 snaps will work just fine on 3mm leather, but no thicker. You need not reach for the skiver. - Leather skived to 2.5mm is a great thickness for bracelets. Thicker looks regal, but also a bit thick, like a cuff. - Buy a cheap brass 4" hand caliper ($10) for measuring leather thickness. It's handy to have, sturdy, and will last forever. - You can drill out snaps that you ruin. Keep a drill handy. I hardly ever ruin snaps anymore. - a half ton arbor press works just fine with the line 20 snap kit - be delicate, don't crush your snaps! Mine are slightly loose on the leather, and they work just fine. Dyes: - Fiebing Leather Sheen and Tandy's Eco flo dyes do not play nice. However, the lifted/smeared dye is an interesting look that you may like. - Next time that I apply Fiebing's Leather Sheen, I will use a sponge and not a shop rag. The rag is for polishing the dried finish. - Sumi ink is a surprisingly good black dye! It's a watercolor, and of course leather loves water. - Neetsfoot Oil can be applied with a rag, as you don't want too much on the leather! Finishing leather: - Should always be done before any hardware goes on. - Expect to use multiple layers. I use a minimum of four different layers of treatments per side. Relly's Top Secret Leather Finish: - case the leather - add one very light coat of neet'sfoot oil applied with a shop rag (allow to sink in) - add one coat of Fiebing's Leather Sheen with a sponge (I have been using a rag. It's not enough) - let dry and then buff with shop rag - add Mink oil (I use Kiwi Mink Oil in a can) and allow to sink in - Wipe off excess mink oil with shop rag (I use disposable shop rags) Do this on both sides ... the flesh side is harder to do. I typically do both sides at once. This is my secret proprietary method .... SO TELL NO ONE Pyrography on leather: - Works very well. I cut outlines and brand lettering - it's a permanent, deep look. You can do anything from the branding that I typically do, to the most gentle shading. Laser cutting, Weaver tools, anything automated: - Wonderful for the professional who is already making plenty of sales. Impossible for the home artisan. Just plain too expensive to own. Buying leather: - Go on, buy at least a shoulder. I bought some cheap-o crappy 6oz at a discount, and it has lasted me months! And it looked great! - My next leather purchase will be a high quality side. I have delusions of being an Artisan, and I'm hooked! - Fit the weight of the leather to the project. You could buy heavy leather and skive it down, or just have the right weight on hand ... Cutting Leather: - Do all cutting before you start any finishes. So, it goes like this: Raw leather -> all cutting and beveling and hole making -> dyeing/artwork/finishing -> hardware -> finished item (for bracelets, anyways) I am not really following the forum, but I think that it will send me email if you reply! (email notification activated) Oh yeah - to my fellow Beginners out there - my most necessary tools for cutting leather, making holes and such cost under $10 apiece! If a tool costs more than $20, take a good hard look at it. Chances are, that tool is a "want" and not a "need". A wiser man than myself could outfit himself pretty well for under $100. Heck, probably under $50. I do not have anything more to write. I just had an itch to post, and had to scratch it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WyomingSlick Report post Posted July 8, 2011 Interesting and some funny! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pounder Report post Posted July 8, 2011 Okay, here it is, Relly's second marvelous bag of random topics: On making straps: - The Tandy Lace Cutter is called "lace cutter" and not "strap cutter" for good reason. You can make straps with it - just not nice, even straps on 6 oz leather. - A Weaver hand-cranked strap cutter looks like the cat's whiskers. It costs $1300. Too bad. An electric strap cutter costs $2300. Even worse. - The hand rotary cutters (knives) are garbage for most uses (my view), but a box cutter with a decent grip has yet to disappoint. - Home Improvement stores sell carpenter squares and clamps. Clamp that square down and cutting a straight edge gets lots easier. - a Dremel can take the sharp edge off straps, but a half moon knife makes prettier, larger bevels. - a Weaver strap edge beveler can cost up to $2200. That's a month's wages for simple folk like me. Ouch. I wanted some Weaver tools real bad, but not bad enough to sell a kidney, you know? My hand tools work just as well, but not nearly as fast. Good useable hand tools cost about $10 each. Bracelets with snaps: - Line 20 snaps will work just fine on 3mm leather, but no thicker. You need not reach for the skiver. - Leather skived to 2.5mm is a great thickness for bracelets. Thicker looks regal, but also a bit thick, like a cuff. - Buy a cheap brass 4" hand caliper ($10) for measuring leather thickness. It's handy to have, sturdy, and will last forever. - You can drill out snaps that you ruin. Keep a drill handy. I hardly ever ruin snaps anymore. - a half ton arbor press works just fine with the line 20 snap kit - be delicate, don't crush your snaps! Mine are slightly loose on the leather, and they work just fine. Dyes: - Fiebing Leather Sheen and Tandy's Eco flo dyes do not play nice. However, the lifted/smeared dye is an interesting look that you may like. - Next time that I apply Fiebing's Leather Sheen, I will use a sponge and not a shop rag. The rag is for polishing the dried finish. - Sumi ink is a surprisingly good black dye! It's a watercolor, and of course leather loves water. - Neetsfoot Oil can be applied with a rag, as you don't want too much on the leather! Finishing leather: - Should always be done before any hardware goes on. - Expect to use multiple layers. I use a minimum of four different layers of treatments per side. Relly's Top Secret Leather Finish: - case the leather - add one very light coat of neet'sfoot oil applied with a shop rag (allow to sink in) - add one coat of Fiebing's Leather Sheen with a sponge (I have been using a rag. It's not enough) - let dry and then buff with shop rag - add Mink oil (I use Kiwi Mink Oil in a can) and allow to sink in - Wipe off excess mink oil with shop rag (I use disposable shop rags) Do this on both sides ... the flesh side is harder to do. I typically do both sides at once. This is my secret proprietary method .... SO TELL NO ONE Pyrography on leather: - Works very well. I cut outlines and brand lettering - it's a permanent, deep look. You can do anything from the branding that I typically do, to the most gentle shading. Laser cutting, Weaver tools, anything automated: - Wonderful for the professional who is already making plenty of sales. Impossible for the home artisan. Just plain too expensive to own. Buying leather: - Go on, buy at least a shoulder. I bought some cheap-o crappy 6oz at a discount, and it has lasted me months! And it looked great! - My next leather purchase will be a high quality side. I have delusions of being an Artisan, and I'm hooked! - Fit the weight of the leather to the project. You could buy heavy leather and skive it down, or just have the right weight on hand ... Cutting Leather: - Do all cutting before you start any finishes. So, it goes like this: Raw leather -> all cutting and beveling and hole making -> dyeing/artwork/finishing -> hardware -> finished item (for bracelets, anyways) I am not really following the forum, but I think that it will send me email if you reply! (email notification activated) Oh yeah - to my fellow Beginners out there - my most necessary tools for cutting leather, making holes and such cost under $10 apiece! If a tool costs more than $20, take a good hard look at it. Chances are, that tool is a "want" and not a "need". A wiser man than myself could outfit himself pretty well for under $100. Heck, probably under $50. I do not have anything more to write. I just had an itch to post, and had to scratch it. Some good advice as some of us can't afford the high end tools (I won't name names but everybody knows) yet we produce a product to be proud of and make some money as well. Thanks for the tips. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
