What Are Your Steps

[Abram]

to making a holster. I have just recently started trying to make holsters and I am having some difficulties. Here are my steps to making a holster, please comment on my methods.

1. I cut my pattern, I am currently attempting a holster for my revolver.

2. I burnish the top edges before I assemble.

3. I normally stain the holster before assembly as it is easier to get the stain behind the belt loop.

4. Once the stain has dried I sand the edges on the face only. I am using welts, I think that is the correct term, to thicken the area around the trigger guard.

5. I punch my holes in the face only. I have found this helps later on with getting them aligned to the holes on the back side and it makes it easier to get through the welts.

6. I then glue the two sides together in preparation for stitching.

7. I reset my stitching groover to match the groove on the front side and I then groove the back side.

8. I then stitch my holster together using the pre-punched holes on the face to guide my awl.

9. Burnish my edges

10. touch up my staining.

I have seen others that dip the entire holster in stain once it has been completed. This would seem to be a better way and I may try and invest in a large bottle of dye just so I can do that.

any and all help/comments are greatly appreciated.

[Lobo]

What style of holster are you making? The process can be a bit different with different designs.

[Abram]

I am attempting to make a western style holster, something like the one shown in the Tutorial on this page. My biggest problem I think is the dyeing and sewing, everything else I can do fairly well for a beginner. I was just curious as to other techniques as I have seen several on the internet.

[Lobo]

Thanks for that clarification. Here would be my plan for completion:

1. Lay out your pattern and cut all the pieces.

2. Bevel all edges.

3. Lay out your stitch lines and cut stitching grooves.

4. If lining the holster, now is the time to cement in the lining leather and stitch at the openings, then trim flush at all edges.

5. Dyeing can be done now, allowing plenty of time for the dye to completely dry and set.

6. Assemble the piece, cementing all joining surfaces together firmly, then stitching down the belt loop, then stitching up the welted seam. If doing this by hand I would use my stitching wheel to mark stitches into the stitching groove. By machine is much easier and quicker.

7. After stitching I would dampen the edges and dress those down on a drum sander, followed by beveling those edges again.

8. Wet forming is next, followed by a thorough drying.

9. Edges can then be dyed and allowed to dry thoroughly.

10. Dye can be touched up where necessary, and perhaps another coat applied if needed, followed by thorough drying.

11. I apply a single moderate application of neatsfoot oil at this point, allowing 12 hours or more for the oil to fully penetrate and settle into the leather fibers (others will argue against any use of neatsfoot oil, and they are entitled to their opinions; this subject has been thoroughly hashed out in prior posts so you can make up your own mind on this).

12. Edges are now ready for burnishing.

13. Next I would apply my acrylic sealant to all interior and exterior surfaces, followed by a thorough drying time.

14. Final exterior finishes are applied, followed by a thorough drying time.

Try not to rush between steps, especially when dealing with dyes, oils, acrylics, and final finishes. Thorough drying is required to permit all of these chemicals to completely cure before proceeding to the next step. Neglecting this will usually result in muddy, smeared, and generally poor final results. In my shop the dyeing and finishing processes usually take 3 days to complete with the required drying times, which may vary depending on temperatures and humidity where you are working.

I cut stitching grooves only on the exterior surfaces to be sewn. Attempting to groove the underside is likely to result in a great deal of frustration and a stitching groove somewhere other than where your stitching ends up being. If stitching by hand there will be plenty of opportunity to snug up the stitching without excessive exposure. If stitching by machine the tensioning should be more than sufficient to sink the stitching into the surface without a stitching groove.

Personally, I do most of my dyeing after forming, but as you have noted this needs to be adjusted when dealing with certain designs, belt loops, welted seams, etc.

If I failed to mention it, be sure to allow for adequate drying times at every step. OK, I'll say that one more time.

Best regards.

[Abram]

Thanks for the reply Lobo. I have been leery of placing stitching grooves on both sides prior to sewing. I tried it once and managed to get the two misaligned pretty badly....lol. I am going to print out your steps and study them, thanks again.

Edited July 25, 2011 by Abram