Need Some Input!

[Spidey2011]

I went into the local gun shop the other day and while I was talking to the owner, I mentioned my holsters that I was making. Long story short, he wants a few in his shop. He even loaned me his blue guns to make some. I made this one yesterday, but I'm having trouble deciding on a color for it. I've got to put in an order here soon, so any colors are an option. Here's the holster, and while it's up here anyway, critique away.

[Steven Kelley]

I think it looks good. Your stitching is nice and even. The shape looks nice. You might be able to move the stitching, especially around the trigger guard, closer to the gun, and possibly do some detail boning. Overall, I think it looks really good. As far as colors, I find that about 80% of my orders are black. I'm not sure if other maker's experience is the same with color, but I would suggest black as a starting color. And as far as dye goes, I have had horrible experience with water based dyes. Buy the best oil based dyes you can afford. They are easier to work with and the color will be much better. Now that I'm getting a decent volume of holster orders, I have a gallon bucket of black dye. Just dip the piece in for a few seconds, pull it out, wipe the excess off, done. Doesn't get much easier or faster.

[Lobo]

OK, since you have asked for comments I will make a couple.

1. The space forward of the front strap of the grip-frame needs to be as open as possible in order to permit a solid "shooting grip" on the weapon during the draw. Anything less leaves the user fumbling around and adjusting the weapon in his hand prior to engaging a target. Your design does not appear to provide sufficent space for the fingers of the gun hand to wrap securely around the pistol grip without interference from the aft belt attachment point.

2. You have made an IWB-style holster of pancake-style construction. Pancake-style holsters can be expected to flex along the fore and aft stitch lines, especially when subjected to belt tensioning as expected with IWB-style holsters. The reinforcement piece you have added to the front panel serves no real purpose for reinforcement of the holster mouth, and actually serves only to add bulk to the "package" of the holstered handgun inside the trouser waistband.

3. Your slide shield does not appear to provide full coverage between the rear of the slide and the user's body.

4. Your belt loops appear to be rather large, suitable for a belt about 2" or more in width. Belt loops should be formed for the width of belt to be used so that the holster is secured against movement during use as the body moves and applies pressures to the "package" in the waistband.

5. You have already mounted your hardware (snaps, etc), so dyeing at this point will result in unnecessary work cleaning up the hardware after dyes and finishes are applied.

Overall, nice looking work. But a bit more thought to the design and functions might result in some improvement.

Best regards.

[Spidey2011]

OK, since you have asked for comments I will make a couple.

1. The space forward of the front strap of the grip-frame needs to be as open as possible in order to permit a solid "shooting grip" on the weapon during the draw. Anything less leaves the user fumbling around and adjusting the weapon in his hand prior to engaging a target. Your design does not appear to provide sufficent space for the fingers of the gun hand to wrap securely around the pistol grip without interference from the aft belt attachment point.

2. You have made an IWB-style holster of pancake-style construction. Pancake-style holsters can be expected to flex along the fore and aft stitch lines, especially when subjected to belt tensioning as expected with IWB-style holsters. The reinforcement piece you have added to the front panel serves no real purpose for reinforcement of the holster mouth, and actually serves only to add bulk to the "package" of the holstered handgun inside the trouser waistband.

3. Your slide shield does not appear to provide full coverage between the rear of the slide and the user's body.

4. Your belt loops appear to be rather large, suitable for a belt about 2" or more in width. Belt loops should be formed for the width of belt to be used so that the holster is secured against movement during use as the body moves and applies pressures to the "package" in the waistband.

5. You have already mounted your hardware (snaps, etc), so dyeing at this point will result in unnecessary work cleaning up the hardware after dyes and finishes are applied.

Overall, nice looking work. But a bit more thought to the design and functions might result in some improvement.

Best regards.

Actually, most of those issues are just the angle of the picture. There is a good bit of room between the grip and the holster, and the slide shield does cover the rear of the pistol.

The reinforcement was something that was specifically asked for, and in my experience it's a good idea. It really does help with re-holstering. The hardware is all in a position that it can be disassembled for dyeing. I put it together temporarily to get an idea of how it will look and to take a picture. As for the belt loops, they are kind of large, and I think I will shorten them a bit on the next one. Thanks for pointing that out.

[dickf]

I agree with Lobo, see my remarks.

The only thing he didn't touch on was the stitch line. I would bring it in significantly on the next one, and plan on not selling this one. Stitch line too far away from the gun = loose holster. There's no getting around that.

OK, since you have asked for comments I will make a couple.

1. The space forward of the front strap of the grip-frame needs to be as open as possible in order to permit a solid "shooting grip" on the weapon during the draw. Anything less leaves the user fumbling around and adjusting the weapon in his hand prior to engaging a target. Your design does not appear to provide sufficent space for the fingers of the gun hand to wrap securely around the pistol grip without interference from the aft belt attachment point.

Agreed

2. You have made an IWB-style holster of pancake-style construction. Pancake-style holsters can be expected to flex along the fore and aft stitch lines, especially when subjected to belt tensioning as expected with IWB-style holsters. The reinforcement piece you have added to the front panel serves no real purpose for reinforcement of the holster mouth, and actually serves only to add bulk to the "package" of the holstered handgun inside the trouser waistband.

I've experienced both, the piece assisting and the piece serving only as an extra layer of leather to try and hide.

3. Your slide shield does not appear to provide full coverage between the rear of the slide and the user's body.

I can't tell from the photo, but it looks to me like it actually overlaps the backstrap a good deal, which is more of a concern to me than not covering the slide 100%. Also, it could be potentially covering the mag release, which is a no-no in my book, as well.

4. Your belt loops appear to be rather large, suitable for a belt about 2" or more in width. Belt loops should be formed for the width of belt to be used so that the holster is secured against movement during use as the body moves and applies pressures to the "package" in the waistband.

Agreed

5. You have already mounted your hardware (snaps, etc), so dyeing at this point will result in unnecessary work cleaning up the hardware after dyes and finishes are applied.

Agreed. Lobo was talking about the snaps for than anything, I think, but if you're remaking the loops, then you can dye before setting the new ones anyway.

Overall, nice looking work. But a bit more thought to the design and functions might result in some improvement.

Best regards.

[marine mp]

Black first, then brown, then EVOO, then British Tan. Looks good. Semper-fi Mike

[BanjoMan]

Spidey, I think overall it is a good looking holster. I'm not going to pick it apart, but as far as color goes I will give you my opinion. If I needed to make a holster(s) to put on a shelf somewhere and did not have a customer to tell me exactly what he wanted, I would stay away from generic colors, i.e. black, saddle tan, etc. Most of the big name holster makers offer only two or three different color options, including those mentioned above. I feel like if you went with a less common shade of brown, such as Fiebings Walnut or Dark Brown dye, it would give the holster more of a custom made look and ultimately make the owner more proud to wear and show off! That's just my opinion, but I feel like the little details like this are what separate high quality custom holsters from something that anybody could order out of a catalog. Each handmade holster should be different and unique, and careful choice of dye color and finish can assist in achieving this. Also, if you haven't already, you should really consider a maker's stamp for the back of your holsters. Looks good, keep 'em coming!

[Big O]

The only color suggestion I have is this:

Dye the belt loops and reinforcement piece to match the belt that will be worn.