Antique Finish Over Paint And Waterproofing?

[Vianeth]

I am using veggie tan leather, putting a couple layers of Angelus leather paint on it, then putting on Fiebings antique finish (black) on top of the paint. It creates the look I need perfectly unlike the dyes. I've been using just Tan Kote as the final layer because it doesn't rub off the antique finish like Acrylic Resolene does. That stuff, along with everything else I have, rubs the antique finish off in one motion (Yes, I water down the resolene and apply gently). I need the finish to stay put with no rub off. I add a lot of finish and it has to stay put where I need it.

I bought some beeswax, parrafin and neatsfoot oil and will try a mix when it arrives. I also read here that others use Snow proof and other products.

I am trying to get it waterproof, because with the tan kote layer, if my fingers are even moist, the black finish rubs off. Also even after a week of drying, the Tan Kote shows fingerprints if my fingers stay on one spot of the leather too long, so it never feels completely dry. The tan kote layer provides a nice shine, looks clean and polished but its not barely water resistant enough. I prefer a shiny finish as well that the Tan Kote provides.

I am replicating armor that was molded in beeswax (for a tv show). It was submerged in hot beeswax then molded/stretched to a form. The wax was the final layer. Since I dont have huge tubs and hundreds of dollars to spend on 100% beeswax, I'd like to try to stick to the same concept. The armor is very stiff with the hot beeswax, so instead I dip the leather in hot water just until it starts to shrivel. I then use a hot blow dryer after I mold it.

Are any of the waxes usable with leather paint? do they need to be absorbed into the leather to work or can it function sitting on top of the paint and finish?

Also, could I get advice on how to apply these waxes? I read some people use just their fingers in small sections but are there other methods?

The picture is some of the armor i'm working on. You can see I use a lot of finish to match the screen worn costume I have.

[Luke Hatley]

If i were to do what the photo shows, i would ....Spray with Red Dye then Block Dye with

Black dye. Then buff very well . Then apply any top coat that you like.

But i would experiment with this first.

[TwinOaks]

The best results you'll get with resolene is to spray it on. There's several threads here covering it, but basically, give it a light misting from an airbrush, let it dry, buff, and add another light coat. Let dry, then start buffing. Once you've done the two coats, a very light coat of neutral shoe polish will help the 'tacky' feel of the resolene. Or you can just give it a day or two to dry and start using it. The tack feel goes away pretty quickly with use and the results are very good. I have a leatherman case I made 3 years ago that gets worn daily, and the only damage to the finish is where it's rubbed on the fiberglass bucket on my work truck....and even that damage cleans up pretty well.

[Vianeth]

Thanks for the replies, i am looking at the Badger 250-1 set and reading other forum replies before I purchase.