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After much experimenting, I was getting good results with Eco-Flo dyes but I recently switch to Fiebing dyes, mainly because the alcohol-based dyes seem to penetrate the leather better, rather than laying on top of the leather, like the water-based dyes seem to do. Now I have to deal with other issues.

I still haven't worked out the issue of the dyes seeming to be so dark (especially after oiling). Even the light brown turns very dark. So dark in fact, that antiquing doesn't bring out much detail but besides that, my biggest issue is the unevenness that occurs.

Where the leather has been worked, the dye isn't penetrating the leather as well. What I ended up with is a photo negative affect. The leather is dark where it hasn't been worked and lighter where it has been worked. The depressed areas (where the antiquing should be catching) end up several shades lighter than unworked areas areas).

Applying a block, before the dye seems to help but I'm concerned the dye won't be penetrating the leather.

Anyway, I'm open to suggestions.

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Depending on what you're making, dying before forming might be an option, like Aaron says. I have also found that some other things might help. Be sure to clean the piece carefully after tooling. I use wood bleach...about 1 tablespoon to a quart jar, soak your sponge in it, squeeze out the excess, and wipe the leather until it us uniformly damp looking. Don't soak it, just wipe it. If you oil before dying, be sure to let it sit a day or so after oiling to make sure it has soaked in well. If you can't afford an airbrush, consider picking up a couple of Preval sprayers. Dilute the dye at least 5:1 with denatured alcohol. Prop the piece against your spraying surface (the Preval's don't work well pointed down), and spray on several light coats. It usually gets lighter as it drys. Let is sit, flat, for a day or so after dying. Then apply the resit, let dry, and antique, let dry, then top coat. Lots of steps, but it has worked well for me.

Good luck,

Dave

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