V3.0 Of My First Holster Pattern

[mlapaglia]

Ok, hopefully I took to heart everyone's advice and learned something. Here is what I believe will be the final version.

6/7oz outside 2/3oz liner. The dark gray is the gun outline before molding. stitch lines are dashed.

Let me know what you think. No need to be gentle. I appreciate the constrictive criticism.

Michael

[Denster]

Much better, but still far too angular for my taste. If it is for you and you like the look then go for it.

[mlapaglia]

Not my day. It should read V3.0 in the topic and this is the picture I wanted to upload.

If a mod could change the pic in the first post with this one I'd appreciate it.

Denster, Not everyone will like every style. As long as the issues are likes and dislikes I'm happy. This is actually for someone else. They liked the last version with the angles and this one.

I appreciate all the help.

Thanks

Michael

Edited August 12, 2011 by mlapaglia

[TwinOaks]

One thing you need to know about angles and corners is that they can be a weak point in the leather. For the holster, it shouldn't be much of an issue on the 'inside' corners, as there won't be LOTS of stress on it (hopefully). For the 'outside' corners, I strongly suggest you radius them, at least a little. Radiused corners are far less likely to snag on garments or anything else. They're also more comfortable if they end up poking the wearer. Perhaps the biggest issue is that you can maintain a constant distance from the edge with a radius- with a corner, there will always be a little bit that isn't supported by the stitch. The can lead to the corner de-laminating and getting dog-eared......which looks kinda bad on a custom holster. I'm not suggesting you use a 6 inch radius or anything drastic, just that you 'round off' the corners where possible. For example: where the wings depart the main body, use a 1/4 inch punch to make the transition, instead of an abrupt corner. Same thing with the tops and bottoms of the wings, except you're using just the 1/8th" radius (half the 1/4" punch). This should allow you to maintain that critical stitch line to edge distance, and still have an angular holster. The way you've drawn the second pic is exactly what I'm referring to.

One of the most used tools I have is a circle template from my old drafting supplies. I use it to correctly align my radii and have a consistent radius. You could also do something like lightly press a punch against the leather to get the line.

After all that......The customer determines what you make. You can offer opinion backed up with fact and advice, but in the end, it's up to the customer.

[mlapaglia]

One thing you need to know about angles and corners is that they can be a weak point in the leather. For the holster, it shouldn't be much of an issue on the 'inside' corners, as there won't be LOTS of stress on it (hopefully). For the 'outside' corners, I strongly suggest you radius them, at least a little. Radiused corners are far less likely to snag on garments or anything else. They're also more comfortable if they end up poking the wearer. Perhaps the biggest issue is that you can maintain a constant distance from the edge with a radius- with a corner, there will always be a little bit that isn't supported by the stitch. The can lead to the corner de-laminating and getting dog-eared......which looks kinda bad on a custom holster. I'm not suggesting you use a 6 inch radius or anything drastic, just that you 'round off' the corners where possible. For example: where the wings depart the main body, use a 1/4 inch punch to make the transition, instead of an abrupt corner. Same thing with the tops and bottoms of the wings, except you're using just the 1/8th" radius (half the 1/4" punch). This should allow you to maintain that critical stitch line to edge distance, and still have an angular holster. The way you've drawn the second pic is exactly what I'm referring to.

One of the most used tools I have is a circle template from my old drafting supplies. I use it to correctly align my radii and have a consistent radius. You could also do something like lightly press a punch against the leather to get the line.

After all that......The customer determines what you make. You can offer opinion backed up with fact and advice, but in the end, it's up to the customer.

Mike, I used to be a design engineer, years ago, and I have the same template. I dug out my T-square, French curves and my Circle template on this one. I tried to make sure there were no "sharp corners" on the leather. Your comment of " The way you've drawn the second pic is exactly what I'm referring to." tells me I must have been listening, at least a little. The first photo is just the wrong one. I did not plan to post that but It's one of those days.

What about the stitch line. Can those be straight like I have them or do they need to be curved also?

Thanks for all the great help.

Michael

Edited August 12, 2011 by mlapaglia

[Sixer]

Are you sure there is "no need to be gentle"?

Along with with the outline of the pattern being too "square" ... it looks like the gun is seated too deep in the holster to get a good grip.

Just a thought.

[particle]

Looks pretty good to me - my only comment at this point would be to add a little length to the end at the muzzle. A holster that's a little too long can be curved inward at the end to help protect the crown and reinforce the muzzle opening. A holster that's too short just looks like jeans that are too short... Once you're comfortable with the stitch line placement and the way it comes out once it's boned, you can trim off the exact right amount from your pattern because you have a finished product to reference and measure to adjust your pattern.

[mlapaglia]

Looks pretty good to me - my only comment at this point would be to add a little length to the end at the muzzle. A holster that's a little too long can be curved inward at the end to help protect the crown and reinforce the muzzle opening. A holster that's too short just looks like jeans that are too short... Once you're comfortable with the stitch line placement and the way it comes out once it's boned, you can trim off the exact right amount from your pattern because you have a finished product to reference and measure to adjust your pattern.

particle,

Great suggestion.

Thanks

Michael

[mlapaglia]

Are you sure there is "no need to be gentle"?

Along with with the outline of the pattern being too "square" ... it looks like the gun is seated too deep in the holster to get a good grip.

Just a thought.

Sixer.

The gun is an H&K USP-9. I checked it on a mockup of the holster and there is enough room to grab the grip comfortably. Thanks for your concern Id rather take the time to double check something than waste leather.

The basic shape is a request for the guy I am giving this to. I will be honest and say I like it too. Either I learn to make them more curved or convince all you nice people that it's not totally ugly.

As for gentle, no problem. I am used to submitting plans for review. You have not seen criticism until you have submitted the fire system plans for a 12 floor hospital to a Fire Marshal. They are rough.

Thanks

Michael

[mlapaglia]

Sorry Double Post

Edited August 13, 2011 by mlapaglia

[TwinOaks]

What about the stitch line. Can those be straight like I have them or do they need to be curved also?

You can put stitch lines pretty much wherever you want, as straight or curvy as you want. As long as you follow the profile of the gun with at least one line per side, you should be fine. I think straight lines are appropriate on something like HKs, and Glocks. On others like 1911s, Hi Powers, etc., then the stitch line needs to bend to follow the weapon. It just helps the holster look like it's supposed to be with that particular gun.

[mlapaglia]

You can put stitch lines pretty much wherever you want, as straight or curvy as you want. As long as you follow the profile of the gun with at least one line per side, you should be fine. I think straight lines are appropriate on something like HKs, and Glocks. On others like 1911s, Hi Powers, etc., then the stitch line needs to bend to follow the weapon. It just helps the holster look like it's supposed to be with that particular gun.

That makes a lot of sense. I hadn't thought about adjusting the shape or stitch line to fit the style of gun. Great idea. The next one is for a S&W M&P 45. Im going to have to think about the overall style of that one. The grips have some sweeping curves on it. Well that one is a few weeks away. I need to start this one first. That will be after the 21st. I am in Tucson all next week.

Thanks for all your great advice.

Michael.

[Sixer]

Sixer.

The gun is an H&K USP-9. I checked it on a mockup of the holster and there is enough room to grab the grip comfortably. Thanks for your concern Id rather take the time to double check something than waste leather.

The basic shape is a request for the guy I am giving this to. I will be honest and say I like it too. Either I learn to make them more curved or convince all you nice people that it's not totally ugly.

As for gentle, no problem. I am used to submitting plans for review. You have not seen criticism until you have submitted the fire system plans for a 12 floor hospital to a Fire Marshal. They are rough.

Thanks

Michael

Fair enough The customer is always right! I'll be interested to see how it turns out. You've certainly done the planning and prep part of the work... now time for the fun stuff