First Attempt At Making A Pattern

[Guy W]

jlaudio29 thanks for the picture that gives me a much better idea of what i need to shoot for in regards for spacing. and thanks for pointing on i didn't have the hammer cocked i totally missed that when I was drawing.

twinoaks thanks for taking the time to give all of this advice I really appreciate it. and thanks to everyone this forum has been a ton of help already.

Edited August 27, 2011 by Guy W

[evandailey]

For your first holster, I recommend using T-nuts and machine screws from Lowes/HomeDepot. You might need to trim the little prongs so they don't over penetrate, but it's a good EASY way to do the attachment. You can use 6/32nds size just fine.

I think you mean 6-32 screws and not 6/32nds right? 6/32nds is almost a 1/4" . 6-32 is a no. 6 screw with 32 threads per inch.

[TwinOaks]

I think you mean 6-32 screws and not 6/32nds right? 6/32nds is almost a 1/4" . 6-32 is a no. 6 screw with 32 threads per inch.

YEP!!!!

Silly mistake, thank you for catching it.

[Colt Hammerless]

A couple of things not mentioned yet. When you figure the stitch spacing for the top of the slide, you'll want to add about an 1/8th inch to that figure to allow room to mold a channel for the front site. To make this channel, you'll have a dowel taped to the slide that completely covers the front site and extends back along the slide to about the front of the ejection port. You can make this dowel out of a pencil or pen. For a perfect example of what I'm describing visit Adam's Leather Works website. This is local member Particle's site. On there he has a free video under the "How It's Made" section. It's also available on Youtube as a three part series under "How to Make a Leather Holster". The dowel I'm talking about is in the third video about thirty seconds in. The construction of the holster he's making is called an "envelope" style or "wraparound" style, which is different from the "pancake" style you're making, so don't let that part confuse you. He has one piece of leather that's folded over then cemented and stitched, whereas you'll have two pieces of leather cemented and stitced that will be flat as a pancake. Just didn't want you to watch that video and think you have the basic construction wrong.

Also, on your pattern it looks like you have the bottom of the leather ending right at the muzzle. The muzzle may stick out the bottom a little. This is fine if that's your preference. If you don't want the muzzle to end right at the bottom or stick out a little, you'll want to draw your pattern so that the leather extends about a 1/4 inch below the muzzle. As you wet mold, you'll simply press this part around the muzzle.

About leather. Tandy has their single shoulders on sale right now for $21.99. It's available in either 4/5 oz or 6/7 oz. You'll DEFFINITELY want the 6/7oz. You'll get enough leather to make about 4 or 5 holsters, plus maybe a couple of mag pouches. Many of us got started using these shoulders. It's not the best leather in the world, but makes great practice leather. Another great option is to call up Springfield Leather. There a sponsor here. You can get lower grade Hermann Oak for 5.99 a square foot and what's best of all is you don't have to buy a whole side or double shoulder. They'll cut you a piece the size you want. If you go this route you'll probably want to get about 5 to 7 sq. feet. They also charge actual shipping, so this is a fairly inexpensive route. You can also get it in different thicknesses. I'd recomend 7/8oz for a full sized 1911. Hermann Oak seems to hold the gun better than the Tandy leather. I don't know if it's because it shrinks slightly more after wet molding, or if it strethces less afterwards. The holsters I've made out of Tandy leather are slightly looser than the Hermann Oak. Still functional and safe mind you, but the holster made from HO will probably mantain it's retention longer.

Colt Hammerless

[Guy W]

thanks for the info colt hammerless, i watched those videos and it was helpful to see how some of the construction was done especially pointing out the sight channel.

as for the holster i want to make, i do want the muzzle end open. maybe this is a bad idea? but my thought was with an open muzzle end dirt/debris or whatever won't collect at the bottom of the holster. do you guys recommend such a design? also thanks for the info on the leather. I'll give the 7/8oz a try for my first one.

would you recommend using a thinner leather for the belt loops? maybe i should get some 6/7oz for those and i'm sure i could find some other projects for that type of leather also like mag pouches or a small folding knife pouch? or would you do it all in 7/8oz?

[TwinOaks]

The nice thing about 7/8 oz leather is that with just a little shaving, you end up with 6/7. So, for the first purchase, just get the thicker leather and shave/sand/skive a little bit off of it if you need thinner leather.

[Colt Hammerless]

There's no problem using 7/8 for the belt loops, or 6/7 for that matter. I've used both. TwinOaks makes a good point. You can sand the back of the leather to thin it if you want 6/7 oz. I'd certainly not buy a seperate piece of leather just to do the belt loops. Also, by using the same hide for the loops as the main holster body, your dye will match. Leather from one cow may come out a slightly different color than from a different cow, even if from the same tannery. A suttle difference, but you may notice it.

There's nothing wrong with an open bottom on an IWB. Actually the method I was describing does leave the bottom open for debris and fuzzies to fall out. It's all just aesthetic preference. On an OWB I like to have the leather folded over slightly on the bottom to give the muzzle some protection in case you fall in the mud or against a rock if you're out hiking or something. But with IWB, go with what looks best to you.

Colt Hammerless

[glockanator]

Not to hijack he post but wouldn't the top part of a pancake holster need to be larger in size the the bottom ?

[Guy W]

Not to hijack he post but wouldn't the top part of a pancake holster need to be larger in size the the bottom ?

I had wondered that too. From what I've looked at there are 2 things i've seen. One is a holster with a flat back the other is without. It would seem if you wanted to have a flat back you would need the front to be bigger so the pocket the firearm sits in doesn't buldge on the back. But i don't think it's necessary to have a flat back, not really sure.

[mlapaglia]

If you order the Tandy single shoulder make sure you tell them you want a 6/7 that is 6/7. This load of shoulders ranges from 4/5 to 8/9 and is marked as a 6/7. I got the info from my Tandy guy and when I went to the store he was right. I picked up 2 8/9 shoulders that were sold as 6/7 for the 21.99. It's not a bad deal as long as you can hand pick the leather or talk to them when you order and requests a 6/7 piece that is decent quality and really a 6/7. Tell them you are making holsters and they should be able to pick a nice one for you. Some of the ones I saw were really nasty.

Hope this makes sense.