Where To Buy A Servo Motor In Europe?

[sandyt]

Hi you all,

I'm having a hard time finding a website in Europe with some info and prices about servo motors. They are sold overhere but the cheapest one I found is 250 euro's. With shipping I have to pay 300 euro's. That's way to expensive for me. Are there cheaper ones?

I e-mailed some sellers but they give very little information about them so I am still not certain what I am buying??

Any help would be apreciated.

Sandy.

[Trox]

Hi Sandy,

I too have been searching for the same thing. I have heard rumors about a new Italian inexpensive DC position drive. I have been searching the web for it with no luck. The Italians make very fine leather machines, and is world leaders on leather factory and tannery machines. However, it is not the same story about their use of internet; most of their websites are in Italian. And my Italian is a No Go.

I bought a 220 V - 600 W brushless digital servomotor from Cobra Steve, 145 $. With shipping too Norway it was less than 200 $ totally. It is very light (about 5 Kg) and strong. It has a adjustable top speed from 100 to 4000 rpm. The slowest speed setting is from zero to 100 rpm. But they are very direct on the sewing pedal, is difficult to sew slower than 100 rpm. All the Chinese servomotors are direct like that, but few are as slow and strong as this. Most will not sew slower than 200 rpm.

I have heard good things about the gear reduction motor from Toledo Bob, 110 V- 500 W. But not available in 220 V.

But the best buy is the EPS motor from Cobra Steve, 350$. Brushless digital servo with needle position and synchronizer. It is listed as a 110 V - 500 W, But the 220 is a special order (like my was), and then you will get the new 600 W one. All those Chinese servomotors are best used with a speed reducer; they are strong but will not sew slow enough for a big stitcher. I use mine on a upholstery machine, no need for a reducer on that. I do not think you will find a Chinese servomotor that compares to the Efka DC motors. I have a Efka DC 1600 (needle position) system on my Dürkopp Adler 267-373, this is the best motor system I ever tried. No need for a speed reducer on this on, very strong and accurate.

All above motor are single phase.

On my 3 phase motors, I too use frequency converters for speed, torque control and converting to single phase. I also use one on a machine with Efka 3 phase variostop needle position motor. I have to use different power supply on the Control box; it needs 220V 50 Hz all the time. The frequency converter only applies to the motor. It works well, but the accuracy of the needle position is not that good on very slow speeds.

There are companies in England that sells Chinese machines, like Highlead. We may have to ask some of our English members about this. Please inform me if you find something before I do.

Trox

Hi you all,

I'm having a hard time finding a website in Europe with some info and prices about servo motors. They are sold overhere but the cheapest one I found is 250 euro's. With shipping I have to pay 300 euro's. That's way to expensive for me. Are there cheaper ones?

I e-mailed some sellers but they give very little information about them so I am still not certain what I am buying??

Any help would be apreciated.

Sandy.

[sandyt]

On my 3 phase motors, I too use frequency converters for speed, torque control and converting to single phase. I also use one on a machine with Efka 3 phase variostop needle position motor. I have to use different power supply on the Control box; it needs 220V 50 Hz all the time. The frequency converter only applies to the motor. It works well, but the accuracy of the needle position is not that good on very slow speeds.

I wonder how you did use the converter with the efka? I was planning to do that but when I pull the socket for the motor the efka doesn't work anymore? Efka stopmotors are realy good but I would like to slow the motor down with a frequency converter. I already put the smallest pulley on the motor I could find. Didn't do anything yet with the machine pulley.

I have a few Italian colleaguess. I will ask them. You never know.

I will definitly let you now if I find something.

Sandy.

[Trox]

Hi sandy,

I did the Efka variostop with a phone support from my brother who is an electro engineer.

When I looked closer on the system, I saw the control box is a single phase 220 V (connected to only two L connectors and earth). Only the motor is three phase 380 V. (The clutch/ brake is electronic single phase too, connected to the control box).

When you open the cable connector box on the back of the motor, you will se the cable for the control box. Disconnect it from it previous place and stretch a cable direct to 220 V wall outlets (the box uses normal power).

I used the pre made hole for a sewing lamp. (Motor connected sewing lamps are a hazard and not legal here)

Then connect the frequency converter the normal way on the lines; L1 L2 and L3. If it not starts or goes the wrong way, changes the order of the L connectors. Set the motor parameters in the frec. Converter and off you go.

The variostop controller is a step controller, when it is on the full 50 hertz; it has about 10 or 12 different speed steps (on the foot control). When you slow it down to about 10 hertz, it has two, maybe three steps of speed left.

It is also possible to connect a pot meter on those frequency converters for easy step less speed adjustment. I do not use any pot meter on my converters, I just set the top speed before I start sewing, and uses the foot control in the normal manner.

I got one on the variostop (on my Adler 204) and share it with my skiving machine. I got an other one on my Adler 5, who has a 3 phase ¾ Hp Singer clutch motor and a speed reducer.

With that setup, I am able to sew one stitch a day if I want to. It works very well.

As I said before, the variostop loses its needle position accuracy on very slow speeds (speeds under 20 hertz). I also use a speed reducer on that setup.

When you slows it down, the controller tries to compensate to make it the speed right, it maybe counts the rotations. There is a ghost in the machine somewhere, but it works. It is no overheating or danger, I been using it this way for more than two years.

It has a very limited space for a speed reducer

Thank for the Italian Inquiry

Trox

I wonder how you did use the converter with the efka? I was planning to do that but when I pull the socket for the motor the efka doesn't work anymore? Efka stopmotors are realy good but I would like to slow the motor down with a frequency converter. I already put the smallest pulley on the motor I could find. Didn't do anything yet with the machine pulley.I have a few Italian colleaguess. I will ask them. You never know.

I will definitly let you now if I find something.

Sandy.

The box pic is upside down :brainbleach:

[Wizcrafts]

This motor modification is fascinating stuff. Keep it going please!

[Trox]

Hi Wiz, Here is the frequency converter, in converts your normal single-phase current in to three three phase.

This gives you total control over a 3-phase motor, rpm, torque, start speed and stop speed etc. You can connect a pot meter, a computer or other equipment for in data.

This is a 220 V - up to five amps. When I set the speed on the clutch motor to example 7 % of max rpm, I can adjust it to have 100 % torque on that speed. This is the common way to control industrial motors today; it is programmable from a remote location. Servomotors are not used much anymore. They only use step servomotors for high precision applications. They are a bit pricey, but I was lucky to get two free of my brother. I use them for two sewing machines and a skiving machine.

Sandy and Universal Ulli from German uses them too, it is a very smart solution.

The second pic is Universal Ulli`s converter, it is a bit more tidy done.

Trox

This motor modification is fascinating stuff. Keep it going please!

[sandyt]

Now I'm feeling a little silly. I could have figure that out myself. I just pulled the motor plug and thought, it does't run so this option doesn't work. Ofcoarse it doen't work, there's no power anymore. Stupid, stupid......

So I gave it another try like you suggested. I put the motor on 10 Hz but the sewing speed on the first and second 'efka step' didn't go down. I only lost the last 3 (high speed) steps. That's a good thing but that wasn't really my goal. Needle positioner works just fine though. It's just on the machine's pulley where they are always located?

You did a great job with that speedreducer. Very little space indeed!! I guess I will go for that option in the future. That should reduce the speed enough for me.

All efka's (I have seen and owned) have three phase motors. You can make those motors run on 1 phase with a capacitor. Steinmetz. Efka does the same when they deliver a 1 phase system. It's on the inside of the lid from the cable connector box how to re-wire it.The control boxes and clutch/brake are always 1 fase as far as I know. Only motors are three Phase.

I am talking about older models. Don't know anything about the new ones.

Sandy.

Hi sandy,

I did the Efka variostop with a phone support from my brother who is an electro engineer.

When I looked closer on the system, I saw the control box is a single phase 220 V (connected to only two L connectors and earth). Only the motor is three phase 380 V. (The clutch/ brake is electronic single phase too, connected to the control box).

When you open the cable connector box on the back of the motor, you will se the cable for the control box. Disconnect it from it previous place and stretch a cable direct to 220 V wall outlets (the box uses normal power).

I used the pre made hole for a sewing lamp. (Motor connected sewing lamps are a hazard and not legal here)

Then connect the frequency converter the normal way on the lines; L1 L2 and L3. If it not starts or goes the wrong way, changes the order of the L connectors. Set the motor parameters in the frec. Converter and off you go.

The variostop controller is a step controller, when it is on the full 50 hertz; it has about 10 or 12 different speed steps (on the foot control). When you slow it down to about 10 hertz, it has two, maybe three steps of speed left.

It is also possible to connect a pot meter on those frequency converters for easy step less speed adjustment. I do not use any pot meter on my converters, I just set the top speed before I start sewing, and uses the foot control in the normal manner.

I got one on the variostop (on my Adler 204) and share it with my skiving machine. I got an other one on my Adler 5, who has a 3 phase ¾ Hp Singer clutch motor and a speed reducer.

With that setup, I am able to sew one stitch a day if I want to. It works very well.

As I said before, the variostop loses its needle position accuracy on very slow speeds (speeds under 20 hertz). I also use a speed reducer on that setup.

When you slows it down, the controller tries to compensate to make it the speed right, it maybe counts the rotations. There is a ghost in the machine somewhere, but it works. It is no overheating or danger, I been using it this way for more than two years.

It has a very limited space for a speed reducer

Thank for the Italian Inquiry

Trox

The box pic is upside down :brainbleach:

[Trox]

Now I'm feeling a little silly.

Sandy

Hi Sandy,

It does not look good, but it works. The machines comes with to small tables here, they do not use or sell reducers here. They use strong motors instead like the Efka Dc 1600 (220 V single Ph, 600 W servomotor) this is a very good motor sewing one stitch a time on the slowest setting. Surprisingly strong to. On my small Dürkopp Adler 267-373, it sews true two layers of 4, 5 mm hard belt leather on the slowest stitch-by-stitch setting. No need for speed reduction there. Efka don't sell the clutch motors anymore. I have bought my speed reducers from Sieck Germany, they sell the Cowboy model and too a very good price too. I paid about 37 Euro for one. I have done that three times, and all was delivered on time. I see the speed reducers cost the same as a motor or more in the US.

Trox

[sandyt]

Didn't know he is selling these reducers. I have to take a better look at his site. Didn't do that before because the prices of seconhand machines scared me!

Also I didn't know cowboy machines were sold in Europe? If the y are sold new than there has to be some second hand machines out there. Of we go, searching.....

My efka is indeed much older than yours. It's a clutch type. Nice Adler though.

Sandy.

Hi Sandy,

It does not look good, but it works. The machines comes with to small tables here, they do not use or sell reducers here. They use strong motors instead like the Efka Dc 1600 (220 V single Ph, 600 W servomotor) this is a very good motor sewing one stitch a time on the slowest setting. Surprisingly strong to. On my small Dürkopp Adler 267-373, it sews true two layers of 4, 5 mm hard belt leather on the slowest stitch-by-stitch setting. No need for speed reduction there. Efka don't sell the clutch motors anymore. I have bought my speed reducers from Sieck Germany, they sell the Cowboy model and too a very good price too. I paid about 37 Euro for one. I have done that three times, and all was delivered on time. I see the speed reducers cost the same as a motor or more in the US.

Trox

[Trox]

Hi Sandy,

they are not in the website, you have to ask for them. Maybe he still has one or two left. (He told me he had three, when I bought the last one not long a go) Yes, the prices are scary, they always are in shops. The Sieck machines are branded cowboy machines. My first reducers I ordered direct from the Cowboy factory, they shipped them true their agent in Germany, who is Sieck. I did not know of them before that. The ones in stock might be from the same lot who was shipped some years ago, because of my order.

The 267-373 is one of my best purchases. I paid 266 Euros for it, it looked brand new. I bought it from a government upholstery school, who had to close down because the lack of students to carry on. It was no signs of it ever had been used; I had to drive 1000 km to pick it up, when I arrived they had two other machines for sale too, that I did not know of. Also at very low prices, but I did not bring more enough money. When called back the next day they was sold.

Trox

Didn't know he is selling these reducers. I have to take a better look at his site. Didn't do that before because the prices of seconhand machines scared me!

Also I didn't know cowboy machines were sold in Europe? If the y are sold new than there has to be some second hand machines out there. Of we go, searching.....

My efka is indeed much older than yours. It's a clutch type. Nice Adler though.

Sandy.

[sandyt]

Before I order one I would like trying to make one myself. I have a little lathe and a few peaces of hard plastic. Don't know how to call it in English. The butcher puts a board under the meat before cutting. It's made of that material.

That Adler is definitly a great buy!! 266 For a good old one is a very good price. But you got an almost brandnew one!!! Everybody should get that lucky at least once in his life. Or two or three......haha...

Sandy.

Hi Sandy,

they are not in the website, you have to ask for them. Maybe he still has one or two left. (He told me he had three, when I bought the last one not long a go) Yes, the prices are scary, they always are in shops. The Sieck machines are branded cowboy machines. My first reducers I ordered direct from the Cowboy factory, they shipped them true their agent in Germany, who is Sieck. I did not know of them before that. The ones in stock might be from the same lot who was shipped some years ago, because of my order.

The 267-373 is one of my best purchases. I paid 266 Euros for it, it looked brand new. I bought it from a government upholstery school, who had to close down because the lack of students to carry on. It was no signs of it ever had been used; I had to drive 1000 km to pick it up, when I arrived they had two other machines for sale too, that I did not know of. Also at very low prices, but I did not bring more enough money. When called back the next day they was sold.

Trox

[Trox]

Before I order one I would like trying to make one myself. I have a little lathe and a few peaces of hard plastic. Don't know how to call it in English. The butcher puts a board under the meat before cutting. It's made of that material.

That Adler is definitly a great buy!! 266 For a good old one is a very good price. But you got an almost brandnew one!!! Everybody should get that lucky at least once in his life. Or two or three......haha...

Sandy.

　

　

You mean a poly board?! That should be strong enough for low speed, but you will need a bearing with a house for grease/ lubricate. These speed reducers are very heavy and sturdy built. You had better use some of your less expensive pulleys and mount them on a shaft with bearing underneath the table like the one in this you tube video; [media][/media]

About good deals on the internet, the trick is to have an email search agent in the industrial sewing machine sales web site. And be the first to respond on a good add. I have those agents on every search that interest me, and receive the mails on my Iphone. But this you do know, you have done some very good deals your self, especial the Pearson. But others as well.

Trox

Edited September 15, 2011 by Trox

[Trox]

I try to build in a video here