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Posted (edited)

FWIW from grumpy again: The keys are: Cased leather, a SHARP - SHARP knife ... AND.... don't get in the way of the blade. (wouldn't get rid of the band-aids either, just because you think you won't get cut.) Mike

Edited by katsass

NOTE TO SELF: Never try to hold a cat and an operating Dust buster at the same time!!

At my age I find that I can live without sex..........but not without my glasses.

Being old has an advantage.......nobody expects me to do anything in a hurry.

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Posted

It might just be that piece of leather. The first piece that I had took about five strokes or mort to cut through, even with a brand new blade in my utility knife. The next hide I got, cut like butter, in comparison.

Posted

I use a 45mm rotary blade knife like the quilters use for all my straight lines and rough cuts. I lay a straight edge on the leather and use it as a guide to cut. With cased leather it takes one cut. For tight curves I use a utility knife with a stropped blade. One thing nice about the rotary knife is I can use it to trim down the edge of one piece of leather using the other edge as a guide. Even for gentle curves.

Mine is a Fiskars 9521 You can get them at hobby lobby and other craft stores. They go for about $15.00 and a pack of 5 replacement blades is about $10.00. TLF has one for 19.99 that is not as good as the Fiskars model. Give it a try. It wont do everything but for most cuts it does a great job.

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The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.

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Posted

For cutting holster patterns I use the Kobalt 9-1/2" heavy duty scissor from Lowes, about $20. These will cut veg-tanned from 5 oz. to 10 oz. weight pretty easily. Touch up the edges ocassionally with a diamond steel sharpener. Mindy, my 25-year old assistant, cuts out about 15 holster patterns per hour using these (so about 4 minutes per holster), wearing a glove to avoid blisters and callouses. We have two of these in the shop, one is about 4 years old and the other is about 1-1/2 years old, both still going strong.

Leathers under about 5 oz. weight (linings, etc) can be cut easily with household scissors.

For long straight cuts, like the first cut necessary to begin cutting belt straps with a strap cutter, I use an electric sheet metal shear. The draw gauge strap cutter can then cut nice straight belt straps in about one minute each. Harbor Freight, about $40.00. Keep the blades adjusted very closely together and these will make a very clean cut on veg-tanned up to about 12 oz. weight, or down to about 5 oz. weight.

Non-traditional, for sure. Simple, fast, and easy to use as well.

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Lobo Gun Leather

serious equipment for serious business, since 1972

www.lobogunleather.com

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Posted

I have been using a utility knife from tandy with great joy - http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Knives-Cutters-Splitters/3955-00.aspx

On smaller weight I use http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/Knives-Cutters-Splitters/Scissors/3050-00.aspx

I would also like to mention that I had to learn to slow down when cutting. IMHO smooth is fast.

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Posted

Nothing beats a good round knife. Most are intimidated by it as I was at first. With pradtice it cuts thru even the heaviest saddle leather and tightest of corners like butter. Keeping it sharp on a buffing wheel only takes about a minute at the beginning of the day. Once mastered it is hard to go back to the utility knife.

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Posted (edited)

with round knives how do you guys keep them sharp? a good double sided (course/fine) stone and some leather for strouping? where do you recommend getting the stone from? also what compound do you use to stroup with and where do you get that?

Edited by Guy W
Posted

with round knives how do you guys keep them sharp? a good double sided (course/fine) stone and some leather for strouping? where do you recommend getting the stone from? also what compound do you use to stroup with and where do you get that?

I use wet dry sand paper to sharpen my round and head knives and it works great. I've been using 320 grit cause that's what i had and then i strop it. But you could start with 320 or 400 and go on up in grit say to 600 and then a 1000 if you want to.

Use it just like you would a stone work it till you get a burr and work the burr off. Make sure you have a good flat surface to work on. You can wet the paper and the surface of what ever your using and it will pretty much stay in place. Their are several videos on you showing people using the wet dry paper.

For my strop i cut out a shape i liked with a handle from a piece of scrap plywood and glued a piece of horse hide on it. I use green buffing compound, you can get it off ebay if theirs not a store close by that sells it.

I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.

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Posted

I have a buffing wheel on a grinder. Dress it with a little white buffing compound, buff each side of the round knife about 30 seconds and its good to go. I have used the same knife about 6 years now with no problems. Keep your hands and fingers behind your knife while cutting because it does bite like a %(&^% if you slip.

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