Second Holster Completed

[mlapaglia]

Pancake Holster for a S&W M&P 9mm

8/9 oz leather. Pattern changed to remove the angles that bothered everyone. Let me know what you think about the pattern.

Stiching on the front side is pretty good, Back side I had a really bad day while working on this one. Good thing its for me.

All in all for a second try I'm happy with it but I need more practice. Hopefully the next one will be better still.

FYI the line down the middle of the back side is an example of how bad a dayI was having when I started this one. I should have walked away and restarted the next day.

Feel free to point things out so I learn.

If you see anything you like feel free to mention that too.

Michael

[dickf]

Hi!

I think your second try looks very nice, especially considering your experience is limited. I would point out that I don't think that's 8/9oz leather - looks more like 6/7 or 7/8 at most. I'd also say that you are getting the leather much too wet and/or beginning to mold the holster too soon. You can easily clean up the slots with a 1/4" sanding drum on a dremel tool which will help a carry belt thread through them (the 1/4 tool will open the slots up a little more than 1/4" in ttl width). The pattern itself is solid, I think, and the only thing other than what I've already pointed out, is that you could stand to bring the stitch line in on front of the trigger guard as much as it is in the rear. Does that make sense?

Either way, you're clearly picking it up fast - good job!

Cheers!

[mlapaglia]

Hi!

I think your second try looks very nice, especially considering your experience is limited. I would point out that I don't think that's 8/9oz leather - looks more like 6/7 or 7/8 at most. I'd also say that you are getting the leather much too wet and/or beginning to mold the holster too soon. You can easily clean up the slots with a 1/4" sanding drum on a dremel tool which will help a carry belt thread through them (the 1/4 tool will open the slots up a little more than 1/4" in ttl width). The pattern itself is solid, I think, and the only thing other than what I've already pointed out, is that you could stand to bring the stitch line in on front of the trigger guard as much as it is in the rear. Does that make sense?

Either way, you're clearly picking it up fast - good job!

Cheers!

Thanks for the suggestions and the comments. It really is 8/9 oz leather. I checked it with a caliper before I started to make sure I had grabbed the correct shoulder. What made you think it was too wet when molded? I did have to mold it twice as the first time it was so tight it took two of us to get the model gun out of the holster.

I understand what you meant about the stitching around the trigger guard. Ill watch that next time.

Thanks again for the comments.

Michael

[marine mp]

Mike, All in all...a great job!!! As for me, it is a little to shiny and the rear-most part of the holster, by the back belt-loop, could stand to be cut just a tad lower to accomodate a more user-friendly purchase on the stocks. Just my observations...may not be true at all. We are our most harsh critics!!!!! Most folks you make a holster for are tickled pink with the things we most likely would toss to the wolves. Thats whats nice about a hand-made, hand sewn piece. There will be mistakes and thats what makes it a piece of art. Some may disagree with that statement as the only thing that leaves their shop must be perfect, without blemish. My-self, I strive for perfection, but haven't quite made it yet, and never will. Anyways, Semper-fi Mike

[mlapaglia]

Mike, All in all...a great job!!! As for me, it is a little to shiny and the rear-most part of the holster, by the back belt-loop, could stand to be cut just a tad lower to accomodate a more user-friendly purchase on the stocks. Just my observations...may not be true at all. We are our most harsh critics!!!!! Most folks you make a holster for are tickled pink with the things we most likely would toss to the wolves. Thats whats nice about a hand-made, hand sewn piece. There will be mistakes and thats what makes it a piece of art. Some may disagree with that statement as the only thing that leaves their shop must be perfect, without blemish. My-self, I strive for perfection, but haven't quite made it yet, and never will. Anyways, Semper-fi Mike

Mike,

I agree with the shine comment, all it has on it is Lexol and then a coat of leather balm with atom wax. This piece of leather was real shiny from the start. I think I will try to make it more of a semi gloss with a little alcohol and then more lexol. Ill try it on the back first to see how it looks. You are the second person to suggest that its a little tight at the back of the holster near the gun butt. I have a lot of room to grab the gun but I may trim the curve a little anyway on the next one. It couldn't hurt to have a little more room.

Thanks for the comments.

[steelhawk]

I think you are getting better and will continue to improve. I think more rounded corners look better. The right curves have a nice visual appeal. I got some french curves and use them during holster design.

You will get better with boning, although better leather helps. My boning suddenly got lots better when I started using Hermann Oak instead of Tandy stuff.

[katsass]

Michael, you have done pretty damned well on this piece. You have a reasonable amount of leather around your belt loops ... where, in time, all of the weight will try to pull that shooter out and away from your body. That is one place newer makers seem to mess up often. You also seem to understand that the 'wings' are only out there to provide a place for the belt loops, and more leather is only a detriment to the function of this type of holster. You do need to follow the contour of the pistol a bit closer for your stitching on the trigger guard side, and also bring it in a bit closer to the gun IMO. I personally don't particularly care for exaggerated 'boning' or over molding. I see no use in it. You don't really need to read the markings on your gun through the leather. I know that many say that it increases retention, and it does .... initially. To my way of thinking, and in my experience, every time the gun goes in or out of the holster, you are pushing the indented leather around the ejection port and trigger guard out of place .... moving (what should be) pretty rigid leather. Constant movement of formed leather softens it, breaks it down, and eventually it can become as floppy as an old dishrag. Look at how much leather is around your gun. With that stitched closely enough, molded (by hand) firmly around your shooter, and tied to your waist with a good belt (or even an old chunk of hemp rope) the gun is going to stay in place ....'tain't going nowhere 'till you pull it!. Now, these are just the ramblings and the applied logic of a grumpy old man. Enjoy you chosen endeavors. Mike

P.S. I don't like leather to look like plastic.

Edited September 16, 2011 by katsass

[mlapaglia]

Michael, you have done pretty damned well on this piece. You have a reasonable amount of leather around your belt loops ... where, in time, all of the weight will try to pull that shooter out and away from your body. That is one place newer makers seem to mess up often. You also seem to understand that the 'wings' are only out there to provide a place for the belt loops, and more leather is only a detriment to the function of this type of holster. You do need to follow the contour of the pistol a bit closer for your stitching on the trigger guard side, and also bring it in a bit closer to the gun IMO. I personally don't particularly care for exaggerated 'boning' or over molding. I see no use in it. You don't really need to read the markings on your gun through the leather. I know that many say that it increases retention, and it does .... initially. To my way of thinking, and in my experience, every time the gun goes in or out of the holster, you are pushing the indented leather around the ejection port and trigger guard out of place .... moving (what should be) pretty rigid leather. Constant movement of formed leather softens it, breaks it down, and eventually it can become as floppy as an old dishrag. Look at how much leather is around your gun. With that stitched closely enough, molded (by hand) firmly around your shooter, and tied to your waist with a good belt (or even an old chunk of hemp rope) the gun is going to stay in place ....'tain't going nowhere 'till you pull it!. Now, these are just the ramblings and the applied logic of a grumpy old man. Enjoy you chosen endeavors. Mike

P.S. I don't like leather to look like plastic.

Mike,

Thanks for your comments. I believe the plastic look may be a result of camera processing. The leather only has lexol and Leather balm with Atom wax on it. It does not look that shiny in real life. I have included a photo with all the processing of the camera turned off. It is closer to the actual look of the leather. Please let me know if it solves the plastic look.

I agree with the stitch line comments but am not sure how to solve it. Due to a sill math error on my point the stitch like was only 15mm from the gun. This is 1/2 gun width plus the leather thickness. I think the problem is that I didnt get the gun pushed down far enough. Had it gone in a little farther it would be closer to the stitch line around the trigger guard. Its a learning process. I now know to make sure the gun does in deep enough. Your comments about it made me look and I see what you are referring to and think I know how ti solve it now.

I over molded this one. In fact originally it took two of us to get the gun out of the holster. I had molded the rail too well and it was holding the gun in place. I will definitely lighten it up on the next one. I have to admit that I like the ejection port well defined but that is a personal preference. I found that I can define it well and then push it back out from the inside and still maintain the appearance of a tightly molded port.

Thanks for the encouragement on this one. I will take your suggestions to heart on the next one.

Here is the new photo I mentioned at the first part of this post.

[markush]

I probably should be the last one to offer advice as I am just working on my third holster, but it does happen to be a full-size M&P if that counts for anything. I notice that the mag release button may be covered by leather. I personally would be sure that there was no leather covering the mag release.There is the possibility to activate that release upon re-holstering. Even if you molded the leather out away from the safety, over time it could soften enough to contact the release. The last thing I'd want was to have to draw the weapon for self defense and have the magazine hit the floor or to be carrying concealed and have a magazine hit the floor in front of a bunch of onlookers. Cutting the holster lower in that area would also go along with what others are saying about leaving more room to grip the pistol.

[mlapaglia]

I probably should be the last one to offer advice as I am just working on my third holster, but it does happen to be a full-size M&P if that counts for anything. I notice that the mag release button may be covered by leather. I personally would be sure that there was no leather covering the mag release.There is the possibility to activate that release upon re-holstering. Even if you molded the leather out away from the safety, over time it could soften enough to contact the release. The last thing I'd want was to have to draw the weapon for self defense and have the magazine hit the floor or to be carrying concealed and have a magazine hit the floor in front of a bunch of onlookers. Cutting the holster lower in that area would also go along with what others are saying about leaving more room to grip the pistol.

Your level of experience has nothing to do with your observation. I'm glad you brought up the issue. From the photos I agree that it looks close. On the back side where the mag release is there is 5/16th of an inch between it and the edge of the holster. On the next one I will probably give it a little more room just to be safe. This one is for my M&P so I can always trim it if needed. Due to the way the trigger guard hits the stitch line I dont see it moving down any.. Even with wear. Time will tell. I'd love to see your design if possible, It's helpful to see different ideas for the same gun.

My next one project is an Avenger style for this same gun.

Thanks for your ideas about the mag release.

Michael

Edited September 16, 2011 by mlapaglia