My First Saddle

[harrington]

I'm not familiar with the two-piece tin strainer, how are they connected? If they are only covered with the two pieces of leather groundwork, won't they separate and collapse?

[GianniWest]

I'm not familiar with the two-piece tin strainer, how are they connected? If they are only covered with the two pieces of leather groundwork, won't they separate and collapse?

I hope not. I am following the DVD by Dusty Johnson. However, it seems very robust. We will see!

[GianniWest]

Small, difficult progress ... other advancements coming weekend!!!

[Aurelie]

Your fork cover looks nice! i doid not had the "guts" to try this so far but it's in a corner of my mind

Regarding your "flat plates" (to me) they look like a bit too big or long

i do not know what others (more experienced) think about it but as for me, i ve been taught to "srew" the back something like under the cantle (where it meets the bars) and not on the back of the bars

i do not know if there are several ways of placing flat plates or not

or what are the pros and cons of doing it one way or another way...

Any master saddle maker around to give his opinion?

But anyway : keep going!

[GianniWest]

Thanks Aurelie,

I do not know what to tell you, it's my first saddle and I have enough experience. I must say that I really like the seat, the rest going on to try to store the points that I need to improve (the ones that I can find), and go ahead!

I want to congratulate you for your works, I saw your site and the works are very beautiful. Since you are in neighboring France, I would like to ask you if you are getting in Europe of producing high-quality tree, or even if you import them from the U.S.

sorry for my bad english and thanks again

Gianni

[harrington]

Your flat plate pattern looks good. I would stitch the top part where you skive heavily and the stirrup leathers pass over. Also try to make the front, top part of the rigging plates wider and wet shape it to mold to the base of the fork. Then put the attachment screws in a nice arc around the base of the fork. Also need to make a small attachment point with two screws inset at the point of the cantle in addition to screwing into the bars at the back. Just my suggestions, everyone has their opinions, take what you like from this site, there is a tremendous amount of great information.

[GianniWest]

Thanks Harrington, you know at this stage I'm following exactly the directions of the book and DVD Dusty Johnson, are still not able to choose between a system or the other. Now the important thing for me is to get familiar with the stages of construction of a saddle. Then I will change the way you work in one way or another.

Thanks again suggestions

Ciao

Gianni

[Aurelie]

@Gianni : that's exactly what told me my "teacher" : follow the way you ve been taught at first...then try other things when you feel more comfy!

As for the trees : i have not found someone in Europe who build western saddle trees

i do import them from the USA

i usually buy them to Timberline in Utah - wood and rawhide made by hand

but i am going to order a ralide to see what it worthes

Keep going!

[dirtclod]

Aurelie if i were you i would save my money and not buy a ralide tree. IMO their no where near as a good as a wood rawhide tree. Their pretty easily broken.

[harrington]

Aurelie if i were you i would save my money and not buy a ralide tree. IMO their no where near as a good as a wood rawhide tree. Their pretty easily broken.

I would agree with not getting a Ralide tree. If you are really interested in something different, try one of the molded poly/Kevlar trees from Mark Howes at Double H Ranch Saddle Shop in Fort Collins, Colorado. They are super tough and can be rigged with a cable rig or a traditional flat plate or D ring rigging. They are about the same price as a Timberline tree.