Want To Make My Own Holster And Belt

[Kcinnick]

I have been lurking around the forums off and on and I think I can tackle a couple of holsters and mag pouches. I really want to make some belts too, but I don't know how difficult it is to make such a long straight stitch (and all my current gun belts are double stitched).

I looked around the new forums, but it looks like it is mostly geared towards leather carving rather than constructing a holster and belt.

I am looking for suggestions on what tools are needed and what tools that aren't needed but will make life easier. I like my tools to last a lifetime, I would rather buy a quality tool the first time.

My goals are to build

A single clip IWB holster for a Keltec PF9

A dual Clip (or loop) IWB holster for an M&P

Mag carriers for a variety of mags

A couple of belts, some gun belts, some just plane ole leather belts made from quality leather, it is hard to find good belts these days.

I am curious about holster design, I know what I want to make, but how do you make a holster without it looking like you copied somebody? For those that sell their work, are there any styles that are copyrighted?

Thanks

[lonestar tactical]

There are some good tutorials out there that will help -

1 that comes to mind

http://www.jdlawhon.com/home.html

Also do a search on youtube - there are a lot of leather crafters who show basic holster instruction. Good starting point before you get started - helps to visually see vs someone typing it out for you to figure out.

This link is one that was given here on the board - never used it - There is a fee service and also a pay service http://www.adamsleatherworks.com/index.php/how-s-it-made/

As for tools see the first link - JD puts together a good list of things and his instructions are there to follow.

Be safe,

Doc

[katsass]

I have been lurking around the forums off and on and I think I can tackle a couple of holsters and mag pouches. I really want to make some belts too, but I don't know how difficult it is to make such a long straight stitch (and all my current gun belts are double stitched).

I looked around the new forums, but it looks like it is mostly geared towards leather carving rather than constructing a holster and belt.

I am looking for suggestions on what tools are needed and what tools that aren't needed but will make life easier. I like my tools to last a lifetime, I would rather buy a quality tool the first time.

My goals are to build

A single clip IWB holster for a Keltec PF9

A dual Clip (or loop) IWB holster for an M&P

Mag carriers for a variety of mags

A couple of belts, some gun belts, some just plane ole leather belts made from quality leather, it is hard to find good belts these days.

I am curious about holster design, I know what I want to make, but how do you make a holster without it looking like you copied somebody? For those that sell their work, are there any styles that are copyrighted?

Thanks

FWIW from the old grumpy guy: My initial suggestion would be to purchase the Al Stohlman book "How to Make Holsters". Almost every holster maker I know has his/her copy. Mine was purchased in the early 60's. It's beat up, but I still will refer to it now and again. Some of the illustrations appear somewhat dated, however the info has never gone out-of-date. It's well worth the fewbucks to purchase, and it should answer most, if not most all of your questions. Mike

[wizard of tragacanth]

If you want to sew a belt, especially with double row or ornamental stitching, you will need a sewing machine. A good sewing machine for leather is $2000 - $2500. You might want to start with single-ply, non-stitched belts in the beginning.

As Doc said above, search YouTube for leathercraft tools and you can see some videos. For comparison, a hand tool such as an edge beveler from Tandy is around $15; a premium edge beveler is around $70 - $90. You will need at least three hand tools: a stitch groover, an over-stitch wheel and an edge beveler. Among the other things that you will need are... a strap cutter, wing dividers, cutting boards, anvil, punches, snap setters, etc.

Nick

[TwinOaks]

Well, you don't HAVE to have a sewing machine, but after sewing one belt, you'll probably want one if you decide to continue leather work. You can spend a fortune on the tools before you ever make your first project. Start small and develop some skills before you drop a lot of money into this.........unless you just happen to have a lot of money to spend on a hobby. If that's the case, feel free to buy whatever we suggest!!!!

If you're near Kenner, you could stop by the Tandy store on Airline Hwy. They won't have EVERYTHING, but they should have a good selection of basic tools that you can get started with. Books, an Osborne awl (smaller blade than the standard Craftool), over stitch wheel (marks where holes go), edger, groover, etc.

When I first started, I used a fork (don't tell my wife) like a pricking iron to mark the stitches. A child's compass (school section at wallyworld) makes a suitable substitute for wing dividers until you get the real thing. Unless you're buying a machine from the get-go, you'll likely start with saddle stitching. I avoid the large eye "harness needles" from Tandy. I use the smallest pair of a pack from wallyworld's fabric dept. I also use waxed linen from the jewelry dept. at Hobby Lobby.

As far as other sources go.....well, you ARE on the largest and best forum for leather working on the planet. Look through the "how do I do that" section, the "holster, sheath,...." forum, and the "purses, wallets, belts" forum. At the beginning of each, there are topics that are "pinned", and often include tutorials on how to do something. You also have us, the collective membership, as a source and we are for the most part a pretty helpful group.

[wizard of tragacanth]

Here is a link to basic tools that might be helpful.

http://unblinkingeye.com/Guns/LTools/ltools.html

Be careful when you buy your first piece of leather. You don't want to buy something of such poor quality that there is no possible way to get a good looking project out of it and you don't want to buy a flawless, premium piece of leather that you cannot do justice to. Be sure to get the right weight of leather too. Just a rough guide but something in the 8 - 10 oz. range should be good but it really depends on what you are doing with it. If you are doing 2-ply stuff, then 4-5 oz back-to-back would be the way to go, again depending on which project and design you are using.

Nick

[Kcinnick]

Thanks, I'll go get the books first, then tools and leather.

I am not opposed to single ply belt, sometime I think my double ply belts are a little overkill since my main carry guns are an xd9sc, pf9 and occasionally an m&p9. I don't plan to take this beyond a hobby, but I do want pro quality tools. I load on a dillon 650xl, and I expect that kind of quality from everything I buy. Don't get me wrong, I do have a few one time use type tools from harbor freight, but I like quality when it counts. I don't mind spending money on the good tools. By anvil I assume that means a slab of granite?

What part of the hide should I buy for holster making? I see backs, double shoulders, sides, bellies, butts. I know I want tooling leather, 7/8 or 9/10 with little stretch. Herman oak seems to be the most recommended, and I looked up most of my handmade leather is advertised as being herman oak. What is the thickest belt strip you can get?

[katsass]

If you want to sew a belt, especially with double row or ornamental stitching, you will need a sewing machine. A good sewing machine for leather is $2000 - $2500. You might want to start with single-ply, non-stitched belts in the beginning.

As Doc said above, search YouTube for leathercraft tools and you can see some videos. For comparison, a hand tool such as an edge beveler from Tandy is around $15; a premium edge beveler is around $70 - $90. You will need at least three hand tools: a stitch groover, an over-stitch wheel and an edge beveler. Among the other things that you will need are... a strap cutter, wing dividers, cutting boards, anvil, punches, snap setters, etc.

Nick

Well, I'll take SLIGHT exception to Nick's mention of the NEED to have a stitching machine. Actually, all you need is time....and practice. Here's a western style crossdraw rig for an original Colt SSA. The belt is 42 inch in size, hand stitched Mike

P.S. The belt AND holster are two ply. I use only shoulder or double shoulder for all holster work.

Edited September 29, 2011 by katsass

[Kcinnick]

Everything I have read says hand stitching is better than a machine, I assume with practice....

Is the Diamond Awl method the best way to stitch? I read about people drill holes with drill presses, but wouldn't the hole never close around the thread if you used a drill bit?

[TwinOaks]

You're exactly right. Hand stitching, using a saddle stitch where one thread alternates sides of the leather and crisscrosses with another thread doing the same thing is the 'best' stitch. This is because if one thread breaks, the other is still holding, and you wouldn't see mass unraveling....at least not on the level of a lock stitch where one thread is on one side of the leather and only wraps around (locks) the other thread inside the hole.

If a lock stitch breaks, it could unravel a long way.....I had it happen not long ago where I got careless and put the backstitch (end of the stitching that 'locks' everything in place) at a stress point. A little force and the thread slipped...............restitch!!!!!!

Now there's nothing wrong with machine sewing items, not at all. But I and others feel that the saddle stitch is the most durable, and just looks better. That said, I have a machine for most of my stitching, and am always on the lookout to upgrade. Some of the machines can produce a quality lockstitch that looks as good any saddle stitch....but it's what's between the leather that's the key.

For your awl, yes, you want a 'diamond' awl. That refers to the cross section of the blade. it pushes the leather out of the way to make a hole instead of removing leather like a drill press would. Tandy sells an Osborne awl that is sufficient for most needs. The holes might be a little large for waxed linen (hobby lobby), but they're pretty close. The awl from Craftool is way too big for the thread. As Katsass has said, if the needle can be pulled through by hand, the hole's too big. I don't go quite that far....I can get the first needle through, but need the pliers to get the second needle through. You'll get the feel of it .....with practice. The key to hand stitching is consistency. Once the holes placements are marked, you need to push the awl through at the same angle (45 degrees to the stitch line), you need to keep the penetrations perfectly perpendicular through the leather (otherwise the back side stitches wander all over the place), and you need to follow the same overlap pattern for the needles....................on every stitch. An overlap example: Awl punches the hole, right hand needle goes through and crosses over and back, left needle goes in the top of the hole. Repeat. You could also have the r.h. needle go through and under. Or start with the left hand needle....as long as it's the same on every stitch it'll look good. To keep the blade angle consistent, you can sand/carve a flat spot for your thumb to rest. That will help keep the blade in the same position....it also helps keep the thing from rolling off a table/work bench.

Expect to have some sore fingers for a while. You'll be pulling on the thread -not the needle- ( the needle's only job is to get the thread through the hole) and the thread will usually take more than your fingers are willing to give.

When you stitch, don't use more than about 3 feet of line at a time. The thread in the needles goes through every hole, so if you've got a long run, the needle end of the thread will get raggedy looking while the start will look nice. If you get raggedy looking thread, complete a stitch and cut it off. Get new thread, back up 3-4 stitches and start the new thread, overlapping the ends of the previous thread.

Practice is the key.

Oh, and if you insist on absolutely the "best" awl, look to get one from Bob Douglas.