What is your method?

[wolvenstien]

I am having issues with applying antique. I have always used it on smaller pieces and have not had any trouble with it. But I just did two pieces that both were larger than a foot square, one smooth, one tooled, and the tooled one i had to apply allot and moved it around to get it into all the tooling marks and what not but it worked well. The smooth piece on the other hand was a mess. The antique dried in swirls all over it, and I had to apply just a bit to my cotton rag and buff out the swirls but it left the leather looking splotchy.... So what is your method for applying antique to large tooled and smooth pieces?

Second.... what is your method in applying Super Sheen from the bottle? I apply per directions (slightly damp sponge and apply in a single direction, allowing one coat, dry 10 minutes before applying an additional coat) but it turns out streaky. I did try to put it on in a circular motion, and it lifted the antique and made bad swirl marks with the antique that I cannot remove. So how do you go about applying Super Sheen over antique?

[Johanna]

Wolvie- I like antique because you can wash it off. Wet, no, soak a sponge and scrub it off. Sure, you'll have a little color yet, but you can get rid of streaks from the first or tenth application. As far as Super Shene goes, I don't like it. It always seems milky streaky, and it cracks. It was developed as a non-toxic finish for institutions- prisons and schools- and never has been the preferred choice for people on the outside with options. If you must use it, get the spray or apply with sheepswool, one coat, straight like you said, no rubbing. It messed up the antique because it "wet" it again, just like the water above. If the item is going to flex a lot and isn't deeply textured, I prefer Leather Balm w/Atom Wax, buffed until done, then buffed again. If the item is going to be somewhat protected, Neat Lac. I have seen some people use Future Floor Wax with good results, too. With antique you'll get a better result if you wait until the leather under it is kinda dry before applying the finish. It's not a bad idea to do it in several stages- you can always go darker, but never lighter, you know. If it's an important piece, test on a piece of scrap from the same hide so that you get the effect you are looking for. Oh, and sometimes antique streaks from the finishes that the tannery puts on the hides. The smooth piece splotched and the other piece may have, too- you just couldn't tell because of the area covered by stamping. If you suspect there is an erratic gloss on a hide, put some rubbing alcohol on a piece of sheepswool and minimize it. Some people use lemon juice, or oxalic acid, but the former I never have on hand and the latter is overkill.

HTH

Johanna

[wolvenstien]

I have tried cleaning up with a wet sponge, but the outcome was kind of worse than the dried swirls. It made everything very dark, matching the darkness in the tooled areas.... and did not lighten up.

[JohnD]

I'm interested in other ways to apply super shene also. The owner of the shop I make seats for insists on it. I also apply it per directions and it always streaks. If you apply more than 2 coats it looks like plastic or patent (?) leather. I tried appying it with an airbrush but couldn't get it to flow, which could have to do with the fact I've never used an airbrush before and only bought a cheap one to try out. I will definately try the lambs wool method, but am also curious what works for other folks. Great topic Wolvenstien. I hardly use antique so I have no input there.

Thanks

John

[whinewine]

I'm interested in other ways to apply super shene also. The owner of the shop I make seats for insists on it. I also apply it per directions and it always streaks. If you apply more than 2 coats it looks like plastic or patent (?) leather. I tried appying it with an airbrush but couldn't get it to flow, which could have to do with the fact I've never used an airbrush before and only bought a cheap one to try out. I will definately try the lambs wool method, but am also curious what works for other folks. Great topic Wolvenstien. I hardly use antique so I have no input there.

Thanks

John

John:

the composition of supershene is such that, while it appears to flow like water, & is water based, it WILL clog spray equipment, from preval sprayers to airbrushes. Trust me. I know. From experience!

Try the spray version (I know fiebings makes a spray version - leather shene, I believe it's called... I am not sure [& don't think so] that tandy has a spray version of supershene).

Anytime I need to use a supershene-type liquid over a water-based anything, like eco-flo stuff (or something that neatlac isn't recommended for, like antique, or cova colors), I'll use the spray version by fiebings.

[wolvenstien]

Ok, I used the wool to apply the antique and it turned out much better than I expected it to.... Thank you JS.

I got to thinking.... I have a can of Leather Sheen spray.... so i used it over the antique.... now I have a question about the spray.... The can doesnt say, so i am left to asking here, how long before it is dry? How long after applying the Sheen before I can use the leather I applied it to ?

Thanks

[TroyWest]

Hey Wolvie,

One of the things I do when I carve something is glass it first. You get your leather damp before you start tooling and go over it well with a glass slicker. You can get these from Barry King or Bob Douglas. This is very important to me especially if you are going to antique because it really closes the pores of the leather and makes it slicker so when you antique it does'nt penetrate those pores and give it a dirty look.

I oil it to the color I want and if I want the greatest contrast I dont oil it at all. Then Neatlac or RTC (resist top coat) from Bee Natural Leather.

I actually like to use 1 coat of Neatlac, let it dry, then 1 coat of RTC, and let it dry.

I've found only 1 coat will usually allow a little bleed through, especially if the grain is open pores, which is why that slicking is so important. You can use 2 coats of either one.

A lot of people can't take the Neatlac and it probably is destroying brain cells. You know, makes you forgetful and you repeat yourself.

It hasn't affected me though.

It hasn't affected me though.

It hasn't affect.... oh, sorry.

Then apply antique and wipe off with paper towels. I also dont like to let the antique sit on the areas I don't want antiqued for long as it can bleed through, especially if I've only used 1 coat of a resist.

At any rate, here's a couple of brief cases I did a while back, about 17 x 12 and antiqued using this method.

Hope this helps,

Troy

[TroyWest]

Oh, after I antique and let it dry, I go over it with Tankote, which will cut the antique slightly, but I lightly wipe it again with a paper towel to kill any streaks.

Troy

[Hilly]

Hey Wolvie,

One of the things I do when I carve something is glass it first. You get your leather damp before you start tooling and go over it well with a glass slicker. You can get these from Barry King or Bob Douglas. This is very important to me especially if you are going to antique because it really closes the pores of the leather and makes it slicker so when you antique it does'nt penetrate those pores and give it a dirty look.

I oil it to the color I want and if I want the greatest contrast I dont oil it at all. Then Neatlac or RTC (resist top coat) from Bee Natural Leather.

I actually like to use 1 coat of Neatlac, let it dry, then 1 coat of RTC, and let it dry.

I've found only 1 coat will usually allow a little bleed through, especially if the grain is open pores, which is why that slicking is so important. You can use 2 coats of either one.

A lot of people can't take the Neatlac and it probably is destroying brain cells. You know, makes you forgetful and you repeat yourself.

It hasn't affected me though.

It hasn't affected me though.

It hasn't affect.... oh, sorry.

Then apply antique and wipe off with paper towels. I also dont like to let the antique sit on the areas I don't want antiqued for long as it can bleed through, especially if I've only used 1 coat of a resist.

At any rate, here's a couple of brief cases I did a while back, about 17 x 12 and antiqued using this method.

Hope this helps,

Troy

Oh man, those are some drop dead beautiful cases! I especially like the one on the right. What colors are those?

[TroyWest]

The one on the left has been oiled, the one on the right, no oil, mahogany antique on both.

[Oscar B]

I will use up to 75% tankote to 25% antique for easer application. I have also mixed sheen into this mix for a all in one application. Rub in to desired color and let dry.