madeinportland Report post Posted October 30, 2011 Im making thin veg tanned leather bi-fold wallets exactly like this quality and accuracy is of the upmost importance. what Juki is right for me? motor? add ons? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 30, 2011 (edited) There were tow different machines used in that video. One is a big bobbin LU-563, which is out of production. It has been replaced with the DNU-1541, or the LU-1508. The other machine was a cylinder arm machine. I don't know what model or make it was. But, there are equivalents available from our dealer-members. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines is a Juki dealer. I think that Keystone Sewing is also. Steve, at Cobra has similar machines for sale. Finally, Techsew, a division of Raphael Sewing, sells Juki and many other brands, including Techsew. Whatever machine, or machines you buy, you will want a servo motor with slow speed settings that are controllable. Older Juki machines all came with a high speed clutch motor. You must either change the motor pulley to a tiny 2" or smaller, or add a speed reducer, or swap out for a servo motor, with a speed dial. The wallets in this video were sewn with either #69 or 92 bonded nylon thread. Any industrial machine can handle those threads. You'll want to use a minimum needle size for whichever thread you settle on. That would be a #16 for #69 thread, or a #18 for #92 thread. Use a leather point, or triangle point needle. You will need a swing away roller edge guide. Our dealers can setup a machine with the roller guide. If you choose to buy from our people, they will assist you with problems that may arise. I can't speak for outside dealers. If you decide to buy a used machine, make sure it has been gone over and any worn, or slack parts replaced. Buy a few quarts of oil with the machine and oil it often. Edited October 30, 2011 by Wizcrafts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madeinportland Report post Posted October 30, 2011 Thank you for all the very helpful information you have posted in this forum and reply. could a DU-1181N be used for this application? what is the most important when comparing the DNU-1541 and the LU-1508? If you could only purchase one machine a flat bed or a cylinder arm for sewing these wallets which would you select? do I need a needle positioning motor? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 30, 2011 (edited) Thank you for all the very helpful information you have posted in this forum and reply. could a DU-1181N be used for this application? what is the most important when comparing the DNU-1541 and the LU-1508? If you could only purchase one machine a flat bed or a cylinder arm for sewing these wallets which would you select? do I need a needle positioning motor? Whether or not the DNU-1181 will be good for wallets depends on the feet and the leather used on the back. It looks like this machine has teeth on the feet. You must take that into consideration when sewing fine leather goods. I would stay away from that machine and stick with a triple feed machine, without teeth on the feet. You will need a left toe set to sew close to the edges. No teeth! Triple feed! Not double feed. I would choose the 1508NH because it walks higher and uses bigger thread. But, the 1541 is a good machine for much less money. Both have rectangular drive feed dogs. Flat bed for wallets The only area where a cylinder arm machine would be better is sewing on the back, where is is bigger than the interior and has a hump near the center. Edited October 30, 2011 by Wizcrafts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted October 30, 2011 Don't forget that it would be the best of both worlds to have a cylinder arm machine with a flat bed table attachment. Something like the Cobra 3, or Cowboy 3500 would be more than capable of handling wallets due to the feed mechanism. It also has plenty of 'room' under the arm for other leather goods, should you find yourself expanding to work on purses or bags. As a general rule, it's always a good idea to get a bit more machine than you think you'll need. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 30, 2011 If the O.P. was to buy a 441 clone, he would need to use #18 or 19 needles and have the machine setup for thin leather and thin thread. It is doable, as I have learned, but not ideal. A CB227R is a better match for billfolds, with its smaller needles, narrower feed dog & throat slot and dozens of available presser feet types. Get a table attachment for it and have the best of both worlds, in a walking foot, triple feed machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madeinportland Report post Posted October 30, 2011 thanks Ambassador and Wiz Wiz, I have been reading up on the LU -1508NH, looks like a great machine. I like the idea of having both capabilities in one machine. cylinder arm with table attachment. think Im gonna stick with the Juki brand. would you recommend a needle positioning motor for sewing wallets? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madeinportland Report post Posted October 30, 2011 HERE ARE SOME LINKS TO INFO ON MACHINES MENTIONED IN THIS THREAD ADD ANY ADDITIONAL LINKS TO FURTHER INFORMATION DNU-1541 LU-1508NH OTHER: COBRA 3 441 CLONE - ? Cowboy 3500 COWBOY 227R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 30, 2011 thanks Ambassador and Wiz Wiz, I have been reading up on the LU -1508NH, looks like a great machine. I like the idea of having both capabilities in one machine. cylinder arm with table attachment. think Im gonna stick with the Juki brand. would you recommend a needle positioning motor for sewing wallets? Well then, you could consider a Juki LS-1340 or 1341. I suspect that you can find a bolt-on table attachment, or make one yourself. I would definitely recommend a needle positioning motor system. Order the entire machine and motor/table already setup. You are looking at big money for any of these top-of-the-line Juki machines. I suggest you contact a Juki dealer who will accept your leather samples and sew them on various Juki machines, labeling each with the model code. Have the sewn samples returned and compare the stitch quality and other details, like marks on the bottom or top. You may find one that is better than the rest. I know we have member dealers who are authorized Juki dealers. Hello out there! Where are you? Bob? Greg? Ronnie? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Techsew Ron Report post Posted October 31, 2011 I know we have member dealers who are authorized Juki dealers. Hello out there! Where are you? Bob? Greg? Ronnie? You're right Wiz...you'll definitely pay more for a Juki machine. Right now we don't have any new Juki walking foot machines in stock, we have a couple of used ones though. We do have a new cylinder walking foot machine that would be appropriate for wallet production. Feel free to give us a call for more information. Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted November 1, 2011 One down, two to go! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madeinportland Report post Posted November 3, 2011 Went with the 1541-S. Thanks everyone for all the help. next skivers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
