Tom Threepersons As A First Holster?

[weconway]

I'm new to this forum/craft. I was shopping for a threepersons holster for my single action, and the more I looked, the more I thought it would be fun to make my own. I'm a tinkerer and DIY guy, and I love projects like this.

I've read a ton on this forum, and watched hours of videos on You Tube I think I have an appreciation for what goes into it. I was wondering if the threepersons style would be good to start out with. It seems that it is a little more straightforward than doing an avenger style holster for a semi-auto, for example. I'm going to use it as a field holster for my back up gun when hunting, so I want to use a snapped retention strap to keep everything in place. I'm thinking that'll make fitting the gun easier, as exact fitting isn't as critical.

Thoughts? Are there challenges of this style that I'm missing?

Thanks!

William

Edited November 13, 2011 by weconway

[woodandsteel]

Welcome! That's how I got started about a year ago. I don;t have any advice on the Threepersons, but I'm sure you'll do fine!

[Lobo]

The Threepersons' style is not a particularly difficult holster to make. There are a few details that can be made easier if you know what to expect at each step.

1. Take a manila file folder and place your revolver inside with the top strap and front sight at the fold.

2. Trace the outline of the revolver on the front side of the file folder, marking the cylinder location clearly, the closer the better.

2. Remove the handgun and lay the folded file folder on your desk or table. Draw a line approx. 1/2" to 5/8"outside the frame from the trigger guard downward to the front end of the frame, then angle downward to a point approx. 1/2" to 5/8" from the muzzle, then continue below the muzzle approx. 3/4" forward of the end of the barrel and continuing to the fold of the file folder.

3. Draw a line from just below the trigger guard curving upward to the rear of the cylinder, then across the rear of the cylinder to the fold of the file folder.

4. Draw a line angling away from the handgun, from the end of the seam below the trigger guard, upward to the top of the file folder.

5. Draw a line upward from the forward point of the rear of the cylinder, angling upward to the top of the folder.

6. Holding the closed file folder, cut the outline including the holster seam and upward angling lines described in 4 and 5 above.

7. Unfold the file folder and cut the line on the outer holster panel from the trigger guard across the rear of the cylinder, around to the upward angling line described in 5 above.

8. The flap created at the upper portion of the inner holster panel will fold down to create the belt loop. Folding down that portion of the file folder to the rear of the holster will allow you to draw the details of the belt loop. Try to keep the belt loop at least 3/4" or so away from the holster seam (to allow room to stitch that seam more easily) and no further forward than the upper line of the cylinder (to allow the belt loop to hold to the belt without pulling the inner holster panel away from the weapon). Belt loop dimensions will depend upon the width of belt you intend to wear the holster with.

9. Lay your new pattern on the leather to be used and trace the outline onto the leather. I recommend 7/8 oz. as minimum for this style, and 8/9 is very usable.

10. Cut your holster pattern from the leather.

11. Bevel all edges and cut stitching grooves as required (holster seam, of course, also holster opening if lining is to be installed), typically 1/8" in from all edges.

12. Any tooling or carving to be done can now be applied.

13. Locate the position for the snap stud to secure the retention strap on the holster face. Try to keep this position away from contact with the revolver frame to avoid scratching the handgun's finish on the snap stud. Install the snap stud.

14. If the holster is to be lined you can now cement your lining leather to the inner holster surface, then stitch around those areas that won't be joined at the holster seam.

15. Fold the belt loop over and, using the belt or a mandrel of equal size & width, mark the stitch-line to join to the holster back. Take a moment to consider how to fold the loop to achieve the holster cant (carry angle) you wish to create. A snap stud can be installed on the rear of the belt loop to attach your retention strap, or the end of the strap can be stitched down, as you prefer (I use the snap attachment method, making the retention strap replaceable in the event of excessive wear or damage).

16. Stitch the belt loop down to the holster back.

17. A welt is commonly used on this style to join the holster front and back together. The welt is a curved strip of heavy leather matching the contour of the holster front at the seam from trigger guard around to muzzle. The welt can be traced using the holster front laid over a piece of leather, then cutting that outline approx. 1/2" width and matching the contour as closely as possible.

18. Cement the welt to the inside of the holster front, carefully matching the contour. I like to leave about 1/4" open at the muzzle as a "drain hole" to permit any precipitation that falls into the holster to drain out easily.

19. Fold the holster body over, carefully matching the front panel, welt, and rear panel. Cement together and clamp until the cement has set.

20. Stitch the main holster seam up.

21. Dress off the edges at the seam. This is best done with a drum sander or belt sander.

22. Re-bevel the edges at the seam.

23. Holster is now ready for forming. Soak in water about 10 to 20 seconds, then force the revolver into the holster pocket and begin forming to the handgun. Some stretching is usually required to accomodate the cylinder bulge. For single-action revolvers be careful not to form closely around the ejector rod and ejector tab, which will make it difficult or impossible to holster or draw the weapon. As the holster dries you may do as much, or as little, boning as you wish (This style is not traditionally boned, but modern tastes have changed on this).

24. As the holster dries it helps to insert the belt, or a mandrel of the correct size, through the belt loop and form it to the final shape desired.

25. Retention strap can be cut about 3/4" width and will need to be about 10 to 12 " overall length. Try to leave at least 1.5" to 2" of strap beyond the snap fastener location. Fit as required.

26. Finish the holster and strap by the methods you prefer. After finishing the snap buttons can be installed on the retention strap and you are done with this project.

We make the Threepersons' style all the time. Instructions sound more complicated than the actual work is.

Have fun with it. The Threepersons' style is a classic design and very useful for range and field use.

Edited November 13, 2011 by Lobo

[mattsh]

[weconway]

Holy cow!! Thanks, Lobo!

I think the style is an elegant and efficient way to carry a SA Revolver. That, and I'm a sucker for old fashioned gunleather.

William

[katsass]

From the grumpy old guy; Lobo has it down pat, the only things I'd add would be to get Al Stohlman's book "How to make Holsters" ... read it .... and take your time.once you start your project. Instant gratification this isn't. If it's worth doing ... do it right. Mike

[BobHur]

I've done quite a bit of (rough) leatherwork but haven't jumped into holsters yet, that's why I joined this forum so I could learn. So, I won't comment on the difficulty level because I don't know, I just wanted to say that the Threepersons style holster is my absolute favorite design, especially in crossdraw. If I were making a field holster (as opposed to something for SASS) I'd make the retaining strap removable. I bought mine from EP Saddlery, and most of the time I kept the retaining strap tucked through the belt loop unless I was doing some serious scrambling or was otherwise likely to take a tumble. That design does a very good job of retaining the handgun while still being very quick on the draw.

[weconway]

I'm an avid homebrewer and bbq cook. My wife swears my personal philosophy is "why buy something for nearly nothing when you can make it for triple the cost and countless man hours of work?".

Good tips, all. I have the holster book on order. I'd think that you could secure the retention strap at both ends with snaps and have it completely removeable, or at least so it could swivel out of the way.

William

[katsass]

Again FWIW; The 'Threeprson's' style holster was originally designed for a Smith and Wesson DA revolver, if I'm not mistaken. Personally I feel that this holster, the basis for numerous models of duty holsters for LEO use, as well as many field holsters, is most likely the fastest revolver holster made, as well as a very secure rig. Here is one I made earlier this year for auction by the local 'Friends of the NRA' ----- somewhat embellished. Mike

[MBOGO]

Not being the holster making machine like some of the others around here, and not having the wealth of experience to draw on. When I make a holster in this style, I deviate from Lobo's technique and waste a few inches more of leather. When laying it out, I'll have about 3/4 of an inch of leather outside the stitch line. It allows more material for holding by the stitching pony, and not mar the holster proper. Once the stitching is complete, set the dividers, mark the cut line on both sides, and cut. then edge.

Another option for the retention strap, is to secure it with a chicago screw. If you want it semi permanent you can put a drop of blue Lock-tite so it won't loosen.

weconway,

Your really need to remind your wife how luckey she is to be around such a handy optimist...

[weconway]

MBOGO - That's a good tip. I was wondering how to hold a formed holster for stitching (I also bought Stohlman's "How to stitch" book).

My wife is deeply appreciative of my personality. Doesn't stop the frequent eye-rolling, though.

[MBOGO]

Plan on making a few learning experiences, before the wow factor sets in.

Those Al Stohlman books are a great investment, in some ways dated (some of the pistol models, and styles) in other ways timeless.

The lady I'm married to also suffers from that frequent eye-rolling affliction???? Women

Edited November 14, 2011 by MBOGO

[weconway]

Got my two books - "How to Make Holsters" and "How to Hand Stitch".

WOW! Lots of knowledge in there. I debated getting them, but they'll more than pay for themselves in wasted leather.

William

[Larry]

Hi William, I did a lot of research about Tom Threepersons and found he was quite an individual. I found a picture of his holster and tried to make mine as close to it as possible. I made my Threeepersons holster after about ten or twelve practice projects so I could get the carving as good as I could. I made it for my S&W M66. I have been doing leather work about two years now and I love it. I made a drawing of the carving on his holster and have it in .jpg format. If you like it and want it, I will e-mail it to you. If you follow all the information the guys and gals here have given you, you will do find. Read the book and plan your holster. Remember, it's just leather and if it doesn't satisfy you, do it again. You'll have fun and you'll have a holster you can wear with pride. Much better than buying one. I also made a six round cartridge holder to fit on the belt next to the holster.