First Holster Need Some Advice

[mlapaglia]

Thank you all for your input I was considering getting one of these bad boys to make my holes. Thoughts?

http://www.tandyleat.../88043-535.aspx

or

http://www.tandyleat...s/8065-295.aspx

Get "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" book and then get a regular diamond shaped awl. What you are looking at is a chisel and while it has its use its not as good as a diamond awl.

Get this

http://www.tandyleat...s/31218-01.aspx

or

http://www.tandyleat...ts/3318-01.aspx and http://www.tandyleat...ts/3319-05.aspx

I like the second option as you can replace the blade when it breaks. I started out with the chisels and they left large holes on the leather. With the awl they tend to close up and look better. FYI, if you can afford it get two blades so when one breaks you can keep going and not have to run to the store.

IF you use the awl get a wine or champagne cork and hold it behind the leather so you punch through the leather and into the cork. Saves the fingers and makes it easier to use.

If you can afford it buy this and you have almost everything you need. http://www.tandyleat...s/11189-00.aspx but its not cheap.

You can either use a fork to mark your hole placement as suggested above or buy an overstitch wheel.

If you are going to buy only one wheel get this one http://www.tandyleat...ts/8079-06.aspx Its a 6 per inch

If you can afford it get this one as it has a 5,6 and 7 per inch wheel. http://www.tandyleat...ts/8091-00.aspx

It you do want to stay with the chisels then get the chrome one its cheaper and no real difference. To save your sanity get one of these too http://www.tandyleat...ts/8067-00.aspx that punches 4 at a time. after the first punch place the first leg in the last hole to line up the spacing for the next 3. You use the single for corners and strange curves.

But if at all possible stick with the Awl. you will appreciate it in the long run.

Michael

Once you get over the sticker shock we can talk about one of these. http://www.tandyleat...ts/8074-00.aspx its for making a groove in the leather to mark and stitch so the stitches do not get worn down as fast. Its not required but nice to have.

Edited November 18, 2011 by mlapaglia

[katsass]

Thank you all for your input I was considering getting one of these bad boys to make my holes. Thoughts?

http://www.tandyleat.../88043-535.aspx

or

http://www.tandyleat...s/8065-295.aspx

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I don't think much of stitching chisels. Many think that my thoughts are not worth much, (to put it nicely) however, I have taught more than a few to stitch and feel that starting with a Dremel type tool is the best. NOT TO MAKE HOLES TO STITCH THROUGH, but as pilot holes to follow with a good diamond awl. Use a 3/64" drill bit, it's itty-bitty .... less than 1/16". Drill your holes carefully so as to ensure that the backside is as straight as the front. To stitch, insert the awl into the pilot, ensuring that you keep it at the proper angle (see Al Stohlman's books on stitching) Make your stitch, and proceed to the next. In time you'll just drill a dozen or so holes and finally slip and stick that awl into a spot that has no pilot and just stuff that sucker right on through. Soon you are just using an awl. JMHO and experience. Mike

[glockanator]

Get "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" book and then get a regular diamond shaped awl. What you are looking at is a chisel and while it has its use its not as good as a diamond awl.

Get this

http://www.tandyleat...s/31218-01.aspx

or

http://www.tandyleat...ts/3318-01.aspx and http://www.tandyleat...ts/3319-05.aspx

I like the second option as you can replace the blade when it breaks. I started out with the chisels and they left large holes on the leather. With the awl they tend to close up and look better. FYI, if you can afford it get two blades so when one breaks you can keep going and not have to run to the store.

IF you use the awl get a wine or champagne cork and hold it behind the leather so you punch through the leather and into the cork. Saves the fingers and makes it easier to use.

If you can afford it buy this and you have almost everything you need. http://www.tandyleat...s/11189-00.aspx but its not cheap.

You can either use a fork to mark your hole placement as suggested above or buy an overstitch wheel.

If you are going to buy only one wheel get this one http://www.tandyleat...ts/8079-06.aspx Its a 6 per inch

If you can afford it get this one as it has a 5,6 and 7 per inch wheel. http://www.tandyleat...ts/8091-00.aspx

It you do want to stay with the chisels then get the chrome one its cheaper and no real difference. To save your sanity get one of these too http://www.tandyleat...ts/8067-00.aspx that punches 4 at a time. after the first punch place the first leg in the last hole to line up the spacing for the next 3. You use the single for corners and strange curves.

But if at all possible stick with the Awl. you will appreciate it in the long run.

Michael

Once you get over the sticker shock we can talk about one of these. http://www.tandyleat...ts/8074-00.aspx its for making a groove in the leather to mark and stitch so the stitches do not get worn down as fast. Its not required but nice to have.

I already have most of this stuff that my grandma had when she died. the only thing I dont have is an awl and the needles a thread which is no big deal. I think I am just over thinking this a little to much is all. Do I need to wet for the holster then sew or the other way around. does it matter ini the long run?

Thanks for all the help.

[mlapaglia]

I already have most of this stuff that my grandma had when she died. the only thing I dont have is an awl and the needles a thread which is no big deal. I think I am just over thinking this a little to much is all. Do I need to wet for the holster then sew or the other way around. does it matter ini the long run?

Thanks for all the help.

I moisten the leather around the area I will be doing the groove and the overstitch wheel. The wheel really wont leave a good mark if you use it on dry leather. Then I start sewing and do not go back and re-wet it as it dries. Don't soak it to do the groove and overstitch just moisten it a little about a 1/4 inch wide along the edge.

The only time you want to wet the holster or at least get it really damp is when you go to mold and bone the leather over the gun. Get your awl and harness needles and waxed thread, grab the book and take a scrap of leather and give it a try, groove it, mark it with the overstitch and sew about 6 inches. You will see its not has hard as you are making it.

Slightly off topic, is that veg tanned leather you are using?

Michael

[glockanator]

Slightly off topic, is that veg tanned leather you are using?

Michael

Yessum

[glockanator]

I got it all stiched up and wet molded but the gun just slids out like there is no retention at all. Any suggestions on how to fix this. I will post some pics when I get to my camera

[wizard of tragacanth]

Pics are definitely needed for us to be of any more help at this point.

[glockanator]

[Haystacker]

I'm not sure how to tighten up your holster. You can try remolding. After wetting the holster, let it sit for a while. Try molding when the holster is almost dry. Follow the lines of the pistol with a sharpie or something like that. The other thing you may consider is a retaining strap.

Hi ride holsters are challenging. The higher the revolver is on the belt the harder it is to keep the gun from wanting to tip out at the top, above the belt line. On your next hi ride revolver holster try using a little more leather above the belt line, like the one I attached. Just keep in mind you don't want to interfere with the firing grip.

I guess you realize, at this point, holster making is addicting!

Best regards.

Jeff

[mlapaglia]

A lot of retention comes from the molding and stitching around the trigger guard. You have very little of the trigger guard inside the holster. You should try molding and boning the cylinder as detailed as possible and get as much detail as you can around the cylinder area. This may help hold the holster. You might need to place an additional stitch line between the gun and the current line to decrease the space in the holster. This will make the gun tighter. Make sure to mold and bone both sides.

I would work on making the molding and boning as tight and formed as possible. This will increase the tension and hopefully fix the issue. Worst case you would either have to add a strap or chuck in in the scrap box and start over. Most of us have done that at least once.

What weight is the leather? Where did the leather come from?

Michael