White Stitching

[katsass]

Hummmm, the last time I brought a flame near steel wool, it burned with an intensity that was frightening. Maybe there is a technique I am unaware with the "blow torch". Or maybe the resultant burned steel wool is what is used. Anyway -- it was HOT!

Bob Stelmack

www.pslac.org

stelmaker; the burned stuff is what is used --- most of the burning is from wax and oil applied to the stuff to keep it from rusting, not the steel itself, AND, that hot bit of fire is exactly why Ma Kat won't allow me to play in her kitchen. Mike

[King's X]

Cool stuff...............started with stitching and into dyeing.............I love this place!

[Tinneal]

Grumpy Mike summed it up pretty well, and I'll only add the following: I have applied 'roon with a 1 inch CHEAP nylon brush and even paper towels. I've found I don't have any issues of drips, etc., when doing that, but it also doesn't penetrate as deeply. If you apply with one of the wool daubers that come in the Fiebing's dye boxes.....DON'T LEAVE IT IN THE VINEGAROON. The vinegaroon will happily eat the zinc plated wire handle of the dauber and change your results from deep, rich, beautiful black.......to the awfullest shade of puke green.

When I wet form holsters, I usually mold first, then color with the 'roon.....but I've done it both ways. I set my leather in a convection oven, and while the leather is still good and warm I apply the conditioner. I think this helps the leather pull the conditioner in, and so far have had good results....except for the puke green glock holster. You can then leave 'as is', or apply a top coat for extra shininess. It tends to push the oils/waxes in the fibers to the surface, so you might need a little extra elbow grease to get your conditioner back into the leather. That property is also why it's very water resistant.

Cautions: Yes, it will stain your hands. No, there's nothing particularly toxic about it that I've found.....NOTE: I've looked up the MSDS info, and FERRIC acetate is pretty toxic and an irritant. I think what we have is either ferrOUS acetate, or an extremely weak solution of ferrIC acetate - - - there's a group called 'the leather chemists' if you really need clarification. Either way, wearing gloves is a good idea. They're either protecting your skin from chemical burns, OR just preventing having to explain why your hands are 12 shades darker than the rest of you. This stuff will stain clothing, and it is the color of rust. It will also etch a stainless steel sink if you let it sit long enough. Water is a suitable solvent. Once dry in the leather, you can treat it as "inert".

Oh! I have to add all these notes to my book tomorrow! Thanks everyone!

[Bard Skye]

stelmaker; the burned stuff is what is used --- most of the burning is from wax and oil applied to the stuff to keep it from rusting, not the steel itself, AND, that hot bit of fire is exactly why Ma Kat won't allow me to play in her kitchen. Mike

Maybe it's the maker of the wool, but I've never found it necessary to burn it off. Just drop it in and give it a month to fully dissolve.

Skye

[katsass]

Maybe it's the maker of the wool, but I've never found it necessary to burn it off. Just drop it in and give it a month to fully dissolve.

Skye

Well Bard, that's what I've heard --- burning or soaking in acetone to remove the wax and oil is NOT necessary. But doing so adds to the show and introduces a bit of 'magic'. Mike

Edited December 13, 2011 by katsass