Pfaff 545 - Safety Clutch And Timing

[Ruby]

Uwe

Would you happen to have the adjustment manual for the Pfaff 145 H3?

[TinkerTailor]

Nice one Uwe. 15mins flat to the answer.....

[Ruby]

I have the manual for the 145 H3, what I do not have is the adjustment service manual. I need to check timing as when I reverse, it always breaks the thread.

Really would appreciate any information.

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/505004/Pfaff-145.html

I have the manual for the Pfaff 145 H3 what i need is service adjustment manual to check the timing as it always break thread in reverse.

Thank you

[Uwe]

There may be no such thing available online, based on a few minutes of research. However, the Pfaff 145 appears to be a very close relative and 90% identical in the hook area to the Adler 67, so my timing video for the Adler 67 may get you most of the way there:

The general guidelines for hook timing don't vary all that much from one machine to another close relative.

In fact one sentence probably gets you close enough for government work: "The needle rises about 1.8mm from the bottom when the hook meets the needle in the middle of the scarf as close as possible without touching".

The needle guard should also touch the needle when the hook picks up the thread.

In the absence of a service manual for your exact machine, the next best thing are instructions for a very close relative of the machine (or predecessor/successor, e.g. Pfaff 145->545->1245). The only value that really changes is the needle rise for hook timing. The 1,8mm is a good starting point for your machine. It determines how well the hook catches the loop AND how well the thread is able to wrap around the bobbin. If the needle rise is too high, the thread will be too tight or bind/snap when wrapping around the bobbin, if needle rise is too low, thread will be loose while wrapping around the bobbin or the loop may not be big enough for the hook to catch reliably. I found this out when timing my Consew 225 using faulty service instructions (the Keystone manual for the Consew 225 states 3/16" needle rise for hook timing when it should be 3/32").

Tilt the machine back and make a few stitches turning the wheel by hand and closely observing what's happening. A well adjusted machine in your class of machines should look like this:

Make sure you use the correct needle system for your machine. The Pfaff 145 H3 should use the 134-35 needle system, according to manual linked earlier. Using the wrong needle system will really mess you up no matter how you adjust the machine.

Edited January 8, 2016 by Uwe

[Ruby]

There may be no such thing available online, based on a few minutes of research. However, the Pfaff 145 appears to be a very close relative and 90% identical in the hook area to the Adler 67, so my timing video for the Adler 67 may get you most of the way there:

The general guidelines for hook timing don't vary all that much from one machine to another close relative.

In fact one sentence probably gets you close enough for government work: "The needle rises about 1.8mm from the bottom when the hook meets the needle in the middle of the scarf as close as possible without touching".

The needle guard should also touch the needle when the hook picks up the thread.

In the absence of a service manual for your exact machine, the next best thing are instructions for a very close relative of the machine (or predecessor/successor, e.g. Pfaff 145->545->1245). The only value that really changes is the needle rise for hook timing. The 1,8mm is a good starting point for your machine. It determines how well the hook catches the loop AND how well the thread is able to wrap around the bobbin. If the needle rise is too high, the thread will be too tight or bind/snap when wrapping around the bobbin, if needle rise is too low, thread will be loose while wrapping around the bobbin or the loop may not be big enough for the hook to catch reliably. I found this out when timing my Consew 225 using faulty service instructions (the Keystone manual for the Consew 225 states 3/16" needle rise for hook timing when it should be 3/32").

Tilt the machine back and make a few stitches turning the wheel by hand and closely observing what's happening. A well adjusted machine in your class of machines should look like this:

Make sure you use the correct needle system for your machine. The Pfaff 145 H3 should use the 134-35 needle system, according to manual linked earlier. Using the wrong needle system will really mess you up no matter how you adjust the machine.

Thank you so much. I will check it out. I bought this machine from an elderly couple. The husband was a tinkerer and he had the timing rotated 180. So I fixed that maybe a bit more tweaking.. I was just going to start at the beginning and see where it lead to see if there was something else... OMG.. anyway heck of a buy. I sure appreciate what you sent and will not disregard it. As you cannot ask for help and then not go through the motions... So truly will check it all out from the beginning to see if I missed anything.

[Ruby]

Uwe

Thank you the information was helpful. It sure is appreciated. I went through all the steps and it was worse than before (not the same as Pfaff 145 H3). I had written down the original measurement so went back to it, as it had good stitching (there was a little catch and it would break on the reverse). I set it according to your video and it still had the problem.. After watching the bobbin spin and stick, I was like what the heck, I will tear it down and see how it works. Wow, it was all gummed up and full of lint. Cleaned up well and then it still did not sync correctly. There is a screw to adjust the cage on top, as well as, the ones you showed in your video (which I adjusted). Now I must say, I like seeing how things tick... Your videos really gave me the confidence to dig into it and it is much appreciated. I am sure I will be back to pick more brain matter..!!

[Ruby]

Your the Best Uwe!!!! I am now in business. ; )