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About Uwe

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    Chicago, IL
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    Leather, sewing machines, making things.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Sewing Machines

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  1. It looks like some feed dogs have not changed since the 67/69 model, but the needle plates are new for the 869 model. In general, if two parts have the same part number in different parts lists (e.g. in the 69 parts list AND the 869 parts list) then the parts themselves are identical and interchangeable. When you look at the parts list, many part numbers will show on which model the part was first introduced (and hasn’t changed since.) A part number starting with 0067 was fist used on the 67, a part number starting with 0367 was first used on the 367, etc. Part numbers starting with 9 are not model specific. The Durkopp Adler 869 parts list (https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/fileadmin/dag/Media/Downloads/869/TL_869.pdf) shows available sewing gauge combinations at the end. Some feed dog parts numbers start with 0067 (or 0467), the throat plate numbers all start with 0867. That means the fed dogs will likely fit all models 69 through 869, but the throat plates will likely only fit the 869. Here’s a screen shot of one of the pages from the manual:
  2. It would be nice to share these upgrades, modifications, and tips for all to see.
  3. That slow speed sewing looks very nice! As for your bobbin case opener, there’s a few possibilities as to why it’s wobbly (in order of likelyhood): 1. The hook may not be seated all the way down, allowing the bobbin case opener disc to move vertically a little. 2. The parts may be worn and have too much play 3. Some parts may be incorrect The wobbliness may actually be fine as long as the finger reliably pulls back the bobbin case to the correct position (tab in center of the cutout under throat plate) Seating the hook properly is a relative easy thing to do. The small hook driving gear holds the hook in place rotationally and vertically. If you loosen both set screws on the gear just a little bit, you can move the hook vertically. Make sure the hook is seated all the way down to minimize vertical movement of the opener mechanism. Sometimes the hook gets forced up by thread getting caught under the hook. Even if you remove the thread, the hook may still be riding a little too high afterwards, allowing play in the opener mechanism. You may have to re-time the hook or adjust the needle bar position if the vertical adjustment of the hook was significant.
  4. I would turn the hand wheel to bring the tip of the needle very close to the material without the inner foot touching the material. Then move the stitch length lever until it points exactly where you want the stitch to go and make the stitch.
  5. Very cool, congrats! How did you embed the metal rod in the part?
  6. Yup, it sure looks like there’s a burr on the hook or driver that cuts the thread. I’d remove and inspect the hook. Polish any sharp edges smooth or just replace the hook with a new one. It takes just a tiny burr to act like a cutting knife.
  7. Thanks for that clarification, I appreciate it!
  8. When turning the machine backwards with the bobbin cap on and without the throatplate, the bobbin case opener ends up on the wrong side of the bobbin case “triangle”. Then when you change rotation again it catches on the bobbin cap, causing the bind. That’s not a normal operational situation. There may be other things going on, but that bind in the video is quite obvious. That bind situation would never happen during normal operation of the machine with all parts in place. This video was made on a different machine, but the concepts are the same.
  9. The short answer is that there’s nothing wrong with your machine. Don’t turn the machine backwards. Don’t turn the machine much in either direction with the throat plate removed. It’s likely to bind up, especially in reverse because it’s not designed to do that. It’s okay to turn the machine by hand with the throat plate removed while adjusting hook timing, just watch the position of the bobbin case. The tab that’s normally under the throat plate should generally point at the needle when you remove the throat plate, don’t allow it to spin freely. Only turn the machine in the designated direction - meaning the hook will rotate clock-wise. Small adjustments in the reverse direction (counter-clock-wise) are okay, but not a full turn in reverse or more. Bad things will happen.
  10. Can you elaborate on that please? That aluminum burr is new to me, I’ve not come across that type of belt in my online searches. A link to a source would be great.
  11. This sure looks like an Adler 67 or 167 to me. There should be a type plate on the back of the machine with details and subclass information. In general, they’re very nice, high quality machines made in Germany. We have a bunch topics discussing them here on LW. Do a search on google like this “site:leatherworker.net Adler 67 167” Here’s a leaflet that provides some tech specs for one of the many subclasses: Adler 67-372-373 Brochure.pdf
  12. The first thing I would check is to make sure the safety clutch is properly engaged. You may have to remove the bobbin case or the entire hook to make sure no thread is caught under it. A massive jam like you described can leave bits of thread in many wrong places. Tweezers don’t reach in all the place you need to check. It sounds Iike you’re saying the hook catches the needle thread loop but fails to wrap it around the bobbin case. A short video clip of that happening under slow hand-turning power would be super useful (upload video snippet to YouTube and post a link to it here). A few close-up photos is the second best thing.
  13. Your machine may bind up because the bobbin case opener is not properly adjusted. This videos explains some of the details around that issue. Your “finger” that’s pulling back on the bobbin case looks different than the one in the video, but the concept is the same. On your machine, you can adjust that finger position front-to-back by loosening the screw that holds the finger in place.
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