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About Uwe

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    Leatherworker.net Regular

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    Garden City, Michigan
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    Leather, sewing machines, making things.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Refurbishing vintage sewing machines, making sewing machine accessories

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  1. Yes, they are exceptionally hard to find, especially used. Compound feed plus zig-zag is also exceptionally tricky from an engineering standpoint. Most zig-zag machines are bottom-only feed mechanisms, very few have bottom + top feed. If you want bottom+top+needle feed plus zig zag, then I’m not even sure such a machine exists.
  2. That’s an interesting stitching tool. Their website states about process for attaching the sole: “This process is done manually with a basic home-made sole stitching lever designed by a shoemaker in Spain for this purpose” ”basic home-made” may be a bit of a stretch. The stitching lever is really quite ingenious and you need a well equipped metal shop to make it. Using a “stitching lever” instead of a “sewing machine” allows them to claim that the shoes are stitched by hand. Which is true, since the tool doesn’t make the stitch for you. I had to play the video in slow motion a few times to see what’s going on. The stitching lever tool appears to form a normal lock-stitch. After the top lever action lowers the hook needle to pierce the material, he lowers the foot to hold the material in place. Then he twists a knob at the bottom which must somehow rotate some internal mechanism that lays the bottom thread into the needle’s hook. He then pulls the needle with bottom thread up and uses his fingers to unhook the loop from the needle and thread the top thread though that loop. Then a bottom lever action pulls the bottom thread down again to lock the knot into the material. I have a feeling the people in the video have little interest in sharing how they came by that tool, since it’s it’s one of the elements that makes their products unique. Perhaps somebody can track down the “shoemaker in Spain” who invented this machine.
  3. You didn’t say if you took just the head in or the whole table setup with motor. Are you sure your motor (and the machine) is turning in correct direction when you try to sew at home? If the machine is spinning backwards then the feed will be reversed and it certainly won’t make a stitch.
  4. The hook assemblies on the 67 and 69 are two totally different designs, a vertical axis design on the 67 vs. a horizontal axis design on the 69. The two hook designs have very little in common I would not expect the bobbins to be identical.
  5. The part number on the blue box in the video actually does match the parts drawing, yay! And the shuttle does look like it fits nicely inside the race in the video. Having a clear, steady moment of that view would have been useful. Since the parts appears to be correct, then it comes down to the installation procedure, which my video linked above hopefully shows in enough detail.
  6. The part numbers on your actual parts don’t agree with the part numbers shown in the parts manual linked above, so you may not have the correct parts. This video below shows how to remove and re-install the shuttle hook (not really necessary in order to remove the feed dog!) You will have to insert the shuttle into the outer race before inserting the race+shuttle assembly back into the machine. The part numbers on the shuttle hook in the video start with 204……
  7. The feet and throat plate are not the same. The main advantage of the 969 may be that you can actually buy a new one today. The 205-370 has been out of production for over a decade. I attended a service training class on the 969 at the DA factory in Germany a few years ago. Personally, I’m in awe over the design and engineering that went into the 969. I’m not aware of a current production cylinder arm machine that has more impressive specs.
  8. Adler 105 feet also fit the OEM Juki TSC-441 presser bar. But the thread on the Juki presser foot screw binds before actually holding the foot tight. You’d have to use a different presser foot screw that’s threaded all the way to the head of the screw.
  9. Are you saying that the Juki TSC-441 is a re-branded Nakajima design? Do you have any sources for this claim?
  10. When I adjust machines I make sure the check spring engages a little to put some tension on the top thread when it’s about to get pulled through the gap between the bobbin case tab and the throat plate cutout. This will look a like secondary little jump of the check spring as it goes through the stitch cycle. This kind of contradicts the statement @Dave4 made in the original post at the top of this topic that stated: “If my observations are correct, the check spring should not enter the game again until after the hook has carried the captured upper thread more than half way across the bobbin face on its journey to becoming a lockstitch.” If the thread is too slack at the moment it gets pulled around the far side of the bobbin case, then it may not slip though the gap before it closes up again. This could cause a potential snag and loops. I don’t have a separate video about it but I sorta-kinda mention it in the Juki LS-341 stitch cycle video at the 1:30 mark
  11. There’s nothing to synchronize on this machine when you replace the belt on a Pfaff 1245. You’ll just have to adjust hook timing after replacing the belt. This machine design has feed motion driven via cams located on the main (top) shaft. Replacing the belt does not change feed timing, it will only change hook timing. If you remove the belt, then needle and feed motion are unchanged, just the hook no longer rotates. The Pfaff 1245 manual provides details on various adjustments, including hook timing.
  12. The Juki 1508 Engineer’s Manual (lu1510n.pdf ) describes how the adjustment of the safety clutch torque works, on page 32/33. Here’s a screen shot of the relevant section:
  13. The Global 9971 appears to be yet another a copy/clone of a popular design dual driven-wheel post bed design. I don’t know what original design these machines are based on, but there’s a lot of them. The Global 9971 is essentially the house brand version sold by Global, a big sewing machine company based in the Netherlands. If you’re within day-trip driving distance to Global then you should strongly consider visiting them. I’ve not personally used this machine, but I spoke with a Global representative at a sewing machine trade show a few years back. Global seems to have their act together from what I can tell. Other clone brands sell very similar machines, often with a 9910 or 24618 in the model name. Example: Highlead 9910/24618 The relative quality of generic clone machines often depends on the company importing them and setting them up. This is why being able to visit the vendor in person for a demo and/or purchase and for service is important. In Europe, some of the big brands for generic clone machines are Global, HighLead, HighTex (Cowboy), Typical, Sieck, among others. Take some of your materials and finished products to get meaningful advice on which machine is best suited. The dual driven-wheel post bed machines are generally popular with people who make shoes. They’re very good at sewing tight curves and following intricate designs very close to the edge. Long straight stitch lines can be challenging because the material pivots so easily around the needle. The YouTube videos showing theses types of machines in action often feature very skilled sewists who make it look easy. You can also sew belts, bags and similar projects with a machine like this. If you’re expecting the machine-sewn seams to look like your hand-sewn saddle stitch seams, would will very likely be disappointed.
  14. Which parts book is that page taken from? Do you have a link to the whole parts book? I don’t remember ever seeing that mechanism on a Singer 111W155. I’ve seen it on other machines. The position of the slider on that eccentric determines the eccentric offset - the distance between the center of the driving shaft and the center of the collar bushing. That offset determines the amplitude of the eccentric motion, meaning how much or how little the connecting rod moves (wobbles) as the mechanism spins. The worm gear is used to change the position of the slider. As with most worm gear designs, the purpose usually is that the worm gear can move the slider, but the slider cannot move the worm gear. Rotating the worm gear moves the slider, but pushing on the slider does not rotate the worm gear. This prevents the slider position from changing on its own as you sew. There’s probably a locking screw that fixes the slider in position and takes slack out of the mechanism to minimize noise. I’m curious to know if your Singer 111W155 is a special version of some sort to employ this eccentric mechanism for walking foot lift. The standard 111W155 foot lift eccentric has a fixed-offset eccentric and the motion amplitude is then changed by changing the position of the connecting rod on the “banana slot” in the driving lever. I’m looking forward to seeing some photos of your machine and that eccentric detail.
  15. You’ll have to show us some pictures of the parts you’re talking about. Your words don’t really match what I’m picturing in my head.
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