Sanding Holster Edges

[Abram]

I have what I think is a simple problem. After sanding the edges of my holster it appears as though the finished side is left untouched and appears as a flap of leather, if this makes any sense. I have been just tilting the holster to brush this off but I do not like the look. Should I just leave this and use my edger on it? I have tried slowing down some to no avail.

Thanks for any and all help

Edited December 15, 2011 by Abram

[marine mp]

ABRAM,

Take a small edger and cut that flap off then wet the edge or rub some solid saddle soap or parrafin wax into it and rub it with a deer antler. Anymore, I just glue the dges close enough so they don't have to be sanded and then edge 'em, slick-'em up then finish it. Works great. Good-on-ya. Semper-fi Mike

Edited December 15, 2011 by marine mp

[katsass]

I have what I think is a simple problem. After sanding the edges of my holster it appears as though the finished side is left untouched and appears as a flap of leather, if this makes any sense. I have been just tilting the holster to brush this off but I do not like the look. Should I just leave this and use my edger on it? I have tried slowing down some to no avail.

Thanks for any and all help

Abram, from the grumpy old guy; I make most all of my holsters from two layers of 4/5 or 5/6 or sometimes one of each. I bond then together of their face sides, cut, then sand to their final shape. This often leads to that little flap hanging off on one side or the other. As the other Mike said, run your edger along, trim that puppy off and go to burnishing. Mike

Edited December 15, 2011 by katsass

[Abram]

Thanks fellas. I have been working on getting the two pieces cut as close as possible to one another and on several occasions I have managed to do this but I find a little sanding helps to touch up the oops made by using a utility knife to cut the pattern. I will give this a try on my next project.

One more question, what size edger do you fellas prefer for accomplishing this or does it really matter?

Thanks again

[marine mp]

Abram, The higher the edger (beveler) number, the more leather it removes. If you have a thin piece of leather, use a #1 or 2, tThe thicker leather, use a higher # beveler. The idea is to make a rounded edge and not a squared off side. So use the # beveler that will make the radius to accomodate the rounded edge. Hope I 'splained it well enough. The other Mike may be able to add some intel to this explanation to help complete the thot. Semper-fi Mike

[Abram]

The only edger I have now is the one that I bought from Tandy leather and I am not even sure what size it is. I am using 8/9 leather and perhaps that is too thick for a pancake style holster but it is all I got at the moment. I may take a trip to tandy to see what else they have.

Thanks

Edited December 15, 2011 by Abram

[marine mp]

Abram, One last side note on the leather weight (8/9). My thot is that a lot of holster makers use leather that is to heavy for the job at hand. We are just trying to make a pocket to carry a hand weapon, not a .105 Howitzer. That being said, the Tandy's leather will loose some of its bulk when you comprdess the fibers down on the flesh side. Also. after you wet mold the piece in the holster, it will loose a shade more and prolly end up being a true 8 oz. for a total of 16 oz. I make my holsters out 6/7 or the heavier weapons (1911 or Judges) out of 8/9. Just my thots. Semper-fi Mike

[Abram]

I have been working on one for a Springfield XD 45 service and someone else had suggested the heavier leather due to the guns weight.

I had thought that if I ever did one for say a small 38 revolver I would reduce the thickness of the leather to say a 6/7 but right now I do not have a small revolver so that is a project for a later time

Thanks Mike

[katsass]

Abram, The higher the edger (beveler) number, the more leather it removes. If you have a thin piece of leather, use a #1 or 2, tThe thicker leather, use a higher # beveler. The idea is to make a rounded edge and not a squared off side. So use the # beveler that will make the radius to accomodate the rounded edge. Hope I 'splained it well enough. The other Mike may be able to add some intel to this explanation to help complete the thot. Semper-fi Mike

Abram, I use (mostly) a #4 edger, maybe a #5 on my heavier holsters. I do make almost all of my holsters a bit differently than most others do, however. I use either 4/5 or 5/6 oz for all holsters, BUT I use two layers bonded together on their flesh sides. With those two weights I can make up stuff of around 8oz, or 9oz or 10 oz after finishing. They go together similar to the outer edges of a pancake holster --- smooth on each side. This forms a very firm holster, more so than a single layer of similar weight. It does entail a great deal more stitching though, as all edges must be stitched. As Mike indicated, some feel that my holsters are a bit overbuilt. Mike

[marine mp]

Katsass (Mike)

I digress at times in my explanations and meant no thing pointed at your work, in particular. Knowing full well that you've forgotten more than I could hope to know about this leatherworking business. I've even started using a thin double layer of skin when I do a inlay, due to your toutiledge. So, I can stand and do stand corrected, as your excellent work has been viewed by myself as second to none. Overbuilt or no, you, Sir, are one of the standards by which I learn and measure my work by. Thanks for the lessons. Semper-fi MIke