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Has anyone used a Tormek 7 tool sharpening system to get initial edges on their tool used on leather?

Wondering if this type unit would produce a fine edge, prior to stropping blades.

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Has anyone used a Tormek 7 tool sharpening system to get initial edges on their tool used on leather?

Wondering if this type unit would produce a fine edge, prior to stropping blades.

I doubt that the Tormek would be very useful for sharpening leatherworking tools it is mostly for woodworking chisels and plane blades. Pretty pricey also. I have used my Drill Doctor sharp all to sharpen old abused round knives. I also power strop my round knives on a buffer with a paper wheel loaded with jeweler's rouge. Both of those tools together are about half the cost of the Tormek in basic form.

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I am a hard person for the family to shop for, and they really want to get me something nice. 3 or 4 years ago, I got a Tormek with every sharpening attachment in existence at the time, and every new one since. I haven't used many of them, but the sort and long knife blades and the planer blade attachments work very well. The only leather knives I have sharpened are some of the knives like CSO shoe knives like bevel, point, and sloyd; these are easily done to a fine edge. I like the water factor as the blades never overheat. But the cost is pretty high for what you get, might be more cost effective for a woodturner. We do have scary sharp kitchen knives though, thanks to Tormek.

I thought of making a jig for doing swivel knife blades on the Tormek, but I currently do them on a steel lap with various diamond grits. The lap and diamond stones are what I use for carbide machine tools; that is how I justify the cost.

I have the diamond stones, so they are kind of a natural for my head and skiving knives, and going above 8000 is a waste on those so I don't use the lap (lap is just a steel or ceramic plate you infuse with diamond grit of the desired size).

Of course there are also the belt grinders down in the shop.

To keep a head knife sharp, just a 1200, and 8000 diamond and a strop should be enough.

If you have a buffer, sometimes just green chrome on a sewn wheel can slick things up very quickly, very useful for edgers.

Art

Has anyone used a Tormek 7 tool sharpening system to get initial edges on their tool used on leather?

Wondering if this type unit would produce a fine edge, prior to stropping blades.

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You are correct about the cost. I had hoped to find something that would cut down on the time I spend sharpening my tools as I am not the best "sharpener" and my hands are not functioning as normal these days. I have a power strop wheel which I have yet to use and a cabinet full of stones of many types that are capable of doing the job.

Think I will have to continue as I am and attempt to improve along the way. I appreciate the response as ther is always something to learn from others.

Have a wonderful Christmas and God Bless.

I doubt that the Tormek would be very useful for sharpening leatherworking tools it is mostly for woodworking chisels and plane blades. Pretty pricey also. I have used my Drill Doctor sharp all to sharpen old abused round knives. I also power strop my round knives on a buffer with a paper wheel loaded with jeweler's rouge. Both of those tools together are about half the cost of the Tormek in basic form.

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Thank you for your input. Gives me a bit more to think about. At this point, I am about to give in and stay with my hand stones and perhaps develop some techniques that will work for my problematic hands. This site and the folks on it are always able to provide suggestions and valuable input. Great place to meet folks like you.

Best wishes for a superb Christmas and God Bless.

I am a hard person for the family to shop for, and they really want to get me something nice. 3 or 4 years ago, I got a Tormek with every sharpening attachment in existence at the time, and every new one since. I haven't used many of them, but the sort and long knife blades and the planer blade attachments work very well. The only leather knives I have sharpened are some of the knives like CSO shoe knives like bevel, point, and sloyd; these are easily done to a fine edge. I like the water factor as the blades never overheat. But the cost is pretty high for what you get, might be more cost effective for a woodturner. We do have scary sharp kitchen knives though, thanks to Tormek.

I thought of making a jig for doing swivel knife blades on the Tormek, but I currently do them on a steel lap with various diamond grits. The lap and diamond stones are what I use for carbide machine tools; that is how I justify the cost.

I have the diamond stones, so they are kind of a natural for my head and skiving knives, and going above 8000 is a waste on those so I don't use the lap (lap is just a steel or ceramic plate you infuse with diamond grit of the desired size).

Of course there are also the belt grinders down in the shop.

To keep a head knife sharp, just a 1200, and 8000 diamond and a strop should be enough.

If you have a buffer, sometimes just green chrome on a sewn wheel can slick things up very quickly, very useful for edgers.

Art

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