Oiling the Toro 3000 part II???

[RawhideLeather]

Guys, I read the previous thread on this topic but still have a few questions. I know you're supposed to oil all the holes marked with red on this machine and in the shuttle race as well but how much? A few drops? I know they make sewing machine oil for that but can I safely use something else? What about the rest of the machine? Should I spray oil into all of the openings that I can't get to with the oil bottle and remove the round cover plates and spray oil in there too? If so, what kind of oil is the best to use? Also, what the hang are lube pots and is that something I might need? I'll be sewing tooling leather up to 1/2" thick using Linhanyl bonded nylon thread if that helps.

Thanks, Richard

[bruce johnson]

Richard,

I can't speak for the 3000 directly, haven't had one. I have had 5 machines though. When I got my first one, they told me to use hydraulic jack oil with a little bit of ProLong oil additive in it, both can be had at most auto parts stores. I hit a couple drops on all the red marked places. On mine there are a couple knuckles in the slot in the head cover I can hit too. I put a drop on my finger and wipe the bobbin case. Those round inspection plates cover oil spots on my machines. The holes on top are supposed to drip onto some of them, but why guess?? I open them up and hit them directly too. There is a bigger inspection plate on the back, and a few oil spots on cams and knuckles in there too. There are a couple behind the head cover that I hit too. I put a long tube (OK, it is a plastic urinary catheter) on my plastic oil bottle. It makes reaching these spots pinpoint. I do a "total oil" every other or third day under normal use. Heavy use - every day. The red spots and accessible points every day. I wipe the bobbin case every 5-6 bobbin changes.

I use Ballistol to clean with, and then reoil as needed. If I am doing repairs, I clean afterward pretty religiously. You can clean leather beforehand, but there will still be some grit. Otherwise I clean weekly or so.

The lube pot mounts on the top of the machine and the top thread goes through it. The lube is more to reduce friction heat on the needle and prevent the thread's bonding coat from sticking to the needle. Reduces some stitch skipping issues, especially with higher speed or harder leather.

[RawhideLeather]

Bruce,

Thanks for your input. I have read many of your posts and I appreciate the depth of your knowledge and your gracious willingness to take the time to share it. I'm sure many others here feel the same. Good sense of humor too! When you speak...I listen. I was thinking about buying a lever squeeze oil can to use instead of the oil bottle as it has a bendable delivery hose. I suppose I will find out in due time if I will need a lube pot.

[bcurrier]

Bruce,

Thanks for your input. I have read many of your posts and I appreciate the depth of your knowledge and your gracious willingness to take the time to share it. I'm sure many others here feel the same.

Yes, indeed.

Bill

[esantoro]

Bruce,

Thanks for your input. I have read many of your posts and I appreciate the depth of your knowledge and your gracious willingness to take the time to share it. I'm sure many others here feel the same. Good sense of humor too! When you speak...I listen. I was thinking about buying a lever squeeze oil can to use instead of the oil bottle as it has a bendable delivery hose. I suppose I will find out in due time if I will need a lube pot.

I like running the silicon lube that Art mentioned in the lube pot, if even to keep the thread path somewhat lubed and add even a bit of assurance that fewer stitches will be missed. I think that running the lube pot does allow for better stitches, even if even slightly.

A gem of an idea for the lube pot is Bruce's idea to put a 1 sq. inch sponge cube on top of the pot between the hole on the pot lid where the thread comes out and the pig's tail. Cut a slit across the top of the sponge cube and place the thread in that. I've got the pretty sophisticated steel and rubber thread wipers Ferdco has, but I think I'm going to just stick with the sponge cubes, as it is easy to change threads when, especially if you have only one machine for a variety of tasks.

ed

[esantoro]

I'm back on the hunt for a good source for Ballistol. I came across this information that might be useful:

"First Ballistol is nothing more than emulsified mineral oil, yes baby oil, also known as coal oil. NAPA Soluble Oil (part # SL2512) is also emulsified mineral oil, but with anti-rust agents and anti-fungal agents. Ballistol is $9.99 plus shipping from MidWayUSA for 16 oz. The NAPA product is $5.95 for 32 oz. That means that Ballistol is about 3 1/3 times more expensive excluding shipping."

Ed