Schno Report post Posted June 27, 2008 Hey guys, I'm having a bit of trouble with my dry-dye technique and I know this is a great forum for answers. You people are incredible! Okay, so... the dry-dye technique I was taught is: 1) apply a very small amount of light color dye (red in my current project) to a dry sponge. 2) brush the dye into the leather 3) repeat steps 1 and 2 for the dark color (black in my current project) 4) apply a coat of carnuba cream to the dyed leather 5) let the carnuba cream dry (~10 minutes) 6) buff with wool scrap 7) repeat steps 1-6 until you achieve the desired effect My problem is that, seemingly, no matter how much or little dye I apply, or how long I wait, when I do step 4, the carnuba cream gets the colors all mixed up and sometimes gets streaky. I see the beautiful gradients that some of you guys get on your bike seats, and I know that's what I want to achieve. Are those dry-dyed or is that from air-brushing? It would be great if maybe you guys could post some pics of dry-dyed examples and techniques you use! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
singteck Report post Posted July 1, 2008 Never heard of dry dye technique before. I still have lots to learn. If you want to achive the gradient dyeing then I suggest you get an airbrush. It is definately much faster. singteck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdb Report post Posted July 1, 2008 Most people have gone to the airbrush for this, Singteck is right, I have six of them, and still don't use them. Here's what I do: First I apply Feibings Dye Prep with a white cloth. Next I apply a light color, usually Tan. I wipe it on a newspaper first, and apply in long light strokes. Then I use the darker dye on a white cloth. I really wipe it dry on newspaper first, until it's almost not coming off. Rub lightly along the edge in long lines, then move in a bit, and start making small circles. Reapply as many times as you want. If you want a third color in between the dark and light, do the same very dry technique. Sometimes, I'll go over the whole thing with a lt. brown antique. Lastly either Tan Kote, or Atom Wax and/or snowpruf, Pecards etc.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted July 1, 2008 For your problem at step 4, are you by chance using Eco-flow water based colors? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Schno Report post Posted July 2, 2008 (edited) There seems to be such a science to dying and coloring that it really is a distinct discipline in and unto itself. I've avoided picking up a book on it, assuming that the techniques therein would be based on the pre-VOC-prohibition days. Since I live in California, a lot of the solutions they describe are now considered contraband. First I apply Feibings Dye Prep with a white cloth. Feibings Dye Prep... sounds intriguing. What does it do? I notice that you don't use the carnuba cream at all. I'll try that route on my next piece. Lastly either Tan Kote, or Atom Wax and/or snowpruf, Pecards etc.. I'm trying out different finishes. At first I was using Supersheen. That, like the carnuba cream, tended to smear and streak my dye job when I brushed it on. On recommendation, I tried Feibings Resolene with an aerosol spray nozzle gig. That sprayed very uneven and clogged almost immediately. I finally resorted to applying the Resolene with a brush, and that took me back to the smeared and streaky debacle. I'm unfamiliar with these other solutions. Are there any that would spray on easily and be available in California at the same time? For your problem at step 4, are you by chance using Eco-flow water based colors? Yep. I'm new at this, so I don't really know any better If you want to achive the gradient dyeing then I suggest you get an airbrush. It is definately much faster. I'm going to try it out some day, and I'm sure that when I do, I'll wonder why I waited so long. Here's some examples of what I've managed with the dry dying so far. They turn out okay-ish, but only after quite a bit of adrenaline pumping oh-@*%! moments and a lot of TLC afterwards. So I'm sure there has to be a better way! Thanks for your help with this, guys! Edited July 2, 2008 by Schno Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted July 2, 2008 Eco- dyes, being water based, will lift or run off the leather when exposed to enough moisture. I'd suggest you try some spirit dyes (alchohol based) or oil dyes. You'll be MUCH happier with them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites