Jimbob Report post Posted January 25, 2012 As my mom said...if you dont listen it will bite you later on...she was right AGAIN...hahahaaa... Some one said neat lac does crack on motor bike seats as top sealer...guess what...I tried it anyway on my own little Sporty seat, it looked great...applied lots of Aussi wax on top and sun light did great job on giving tan color....now after 6 month it seems it has crackelt and some Lexol conditioner must have seeped under it....made dark spiderweb kinda places! So, what can a man use instead of neat lac if you want to protect natural tan leather on a scooter seat....will dressing like Aussie, Montana pine or sno seal be enough to protect natural leather and the carving on a seat...? I have used Neatsfoot oil only before on other seats...no problem, but not a bit of a little shine...darkens a lot but ok for what I had in mind then....Resolene and bagkote seems not to be tough enough for a seat?? AND can I remove this neat lac with alcohol or what else? ...to re-do at least the smooth skirts without carvings to make it look OK..? Thanks for reading and sure would like to hear from ya all about this...heck some people talk even about a mop-n-glo thingy?!??? Greetings ride safe James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bustedlifter Report post Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) I've used Aussie stuff and Fiebing's Snow Proof both with good results. The thing I find is,if you're going to ride it and sometimes in inclement weather, it's going to get wet. I don't think it's that big of a deal especially if you like to carve deep. Just for fun, I experimented by leaving a seat I made outside for about 5 or 6 months a couple of years ago. Put it outside in fall where it got rained on, dried out, snowed on, frozen, dried out, hot sun, you name it. It looks GREAT.I use 8-9 oz. leather and it really holds up well. Hope this helps. Edited January 25, 2012 by bustedlifter Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted January 25, 2012 I am going to fuess you used too much/too thick on the Neat Laq. Thin application is definatly better if the item is going to flex. I use it on all of the tooled wallets I make and do not have cracking problems. When I first started, I did mess up a few things. Looked pretty till it was flexed. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimbob Report post Posted January 25, 2012 I am going to fuess you used too much/too thick on the Neat Laq. Thin application is definatly better if the item is going to flex. I use it on all of the tooled wallets I make and do not have cracking problems. When I first started, I did mess up a few things. Looked pretty till it was flexed. Aaron how do you apply...airbrush, felt , swab...brush....I did it rather liberal with large brush... Thanks for the input!!! James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted January 26, 2012 I always apply it with a piece of sheepskin. Cut a piece about 1" square and rub it on everywhere fairly quickly. Once everything is coated you then take a clean dry piece and try to gently rub it off. No ponding in the cracke and crevaces. You can usually see when you have done it enough. If you spray it on you likely will be way to thick. Wipe it down after it is sprayed will clean it up. Thhink of this more like you are putting stain on wood as oposed to painting wood. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimbob Report post Posted January 29, 2012 I always apply it with a piece of sheepskin. Cut a piece about 1" square and rub it on everywhere fairly quickly. Once everything is coated you then take a clean dry piece and try to gently rub it off. No ponding in the cracke and crevaces. You can usually see when you have done it enough. If you spray it on you likely will be way to thick. Wipe it down after it is sprayed will clean it up. Thhink of this more like you are putting stain on wood as oposed to painting wood. Aaron I see what you are saying....been using neat lac on my wallets too....to protect my colored carvings...rest is dyed and with some wax sealer////never had a problem there....and they get flexed a lot too....so I really dont know....I am in the progress to do a seat with natural tan and antiquening...Fiebings paste....of course I need to seal leather before antiquening....later after wipe off another coat of neat lac to seal this....now I am concerned to do that....hmmmm...any ideas....?? Thank you to all that read this.. James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted January 29, 2012 I see what you are saying....been using neat lac on my wallets too....to protect my colored carvings...rest is dyed and with some wax sealer////never had a problem there....and they get flexed a lot too....so I really dont know....I am in the progress to do a seat with natural tan and antiquening...Fiebings paste....of course I need to seal leather before antiquening....later after wipe off another coat of neat lac to seal this....now I am concerned to do that....hmmmm...any ideas....?? Thank you to all that read this.. James I would seal it with neat laq. Antique with fiebings paste. Seal antique with tan kote. Some of the top toolers on here say to do the final seal with neat laq. I have done it that way too, but still feel more comfortable using tan kote instead of two layers of neat laq. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimbob Report post Posted January 29, 2012 I would seal it with neat laq. Antique with fiebings paste. Seal antique with tan kote. Some of the top toolers on here say to do the final seal with neat laq. I have done it that way too, but still feel more comfortable using tan kote instead of two layers of neat laq. Aaron Have not used much tan kote....I will try this on a test piece.....thanks for all the input.....I love the waxy shine of neats lac and durrability.....shure works gud as sealer too... So back to the bench...tnx Aaron James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chancey77 Report post Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) I only use Neatsfoot Oil for about 10 real thin coats (rub of with cloth very thin!) Rub off after about 30sec. Then I use a Leather Balsam. Again about 5 coats, But I let it sit and soak in each layer and buff in between each layer. Then one last heavy balsam coat and hit with a hair dryer and melt in the remaining. Then it is up to the customer if they are going to take care of it themselves or not. I always give them a can of what I am using and some advise to use it at least once a week during rain season. And tell them it is just like their boots/Jacket /Chaps if they don't grease and oil them regularly they will be wet and the life span will not be so long and the leather will be stiff instead of nice and soft. Guys and Gals from the Military tend to listen more since their boots are so important to be kept shined and waterproofed But when it leaves my shop it is water resistant 100%....It is leather and will NEVER be fully waterproof. After a decent hard rain it will be wet and so will their butt if it doesn't have time to dry. But if they are crying about a wet butt they 1. Should not call themselves a biker!!! 2. You should have charged them Double! The more they ride and the more it is in the elements the more compression the leather gets and the top layers will eventually get well seasoned and not need so much attention but when it is fresh out of the shop in the first 6 months it needs a lot of attention! If they have a lot of Chrome and keep their bike clean then it is just one more thing for them to clean and polish. Most likely they will do it themselves. I tend to stay away from Lacs! You live in the US and should try some Montana Pitch Blend, It is one of my favorites! Gives the Tan leather an amazing tone and protects very, very well. They have a full leather care line from soaps, oils,balsams. It is made from pine resin so it is a real good natural product. GOOD LUCK! http://www.mtpitchblend.com/ and here is the one i use right now http://www.carrdaymartin.co.uk/products.html?cid=MQ== Edited January 29, 2012 by chancey77 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jimbob Report post Posted January 29, 2012 I only use Neatsfoot Oil for about 10 real thin coats (rub of with cloth very thin!) Rub off after about 30sec. Then I use a Leather Balsam. Again about 5 coats, But I let it sit and soak in each layer and buff in between each layer. Then one last heavy balsam coat and hit with a hair dryer and melt in the remaining. Then it is up to the customer if they are going to take care of it themselves or not. I always give them a can of what I am using and some advise to use it at least once a week during rain season. And tell them it is just like their boots/Jacket /Chaps if they don't grease and oil them regularly they will be wet and the life span will not be so long and the leather will be stiff instead of nice and soft. Guys and Gals from the Military tend to listen more since their boots are so important to be kept shined and waterproofed But when it leaves my shop it is water resistant 100%....It is leather and will NEVER be fully waterproof. After a decent hard rain it will be wet and so will their butt if it doesn't have time to dry. But if they are crying about a wet butt they 1. Should not call themselves a biker!!! 2. You should have charged them Double! The more they ride and the more it is in the elements the more compression the leather gets and the top layers will eventually get well seasoned and not need so much attention but when it is fresh out of the shop in the first 6 months it needs a lot of attention! If they have a lot of Chrome and keep their bike clean then it is just one more thing for them to clean and polish. Most likely they will do it themselves. I tend to stay away from Lacs! You live in the US and should try some Montana Pitch Blend, It is one of my favorites! Gives the Tan leather an amazing tone and protects very, very well. They have a full leather care line from soaps, oils,balsams. It is made from pine resin so it is a real good natural product. GOOD LUCK! http://www.mtpitchblend.com/ and here is the one i use right nowo http://www.carrdaymartin.co.uk/products.html?cid=MQ== Great reply, thanks a lot.... I tend to go away from lacs now....so many good facts you mentioned! I love ot to seal my acryl paint stuff, but I think on bigger seats...main seating area....it makes me thinking about Montana Pitchstuff....done ordered 4oz....pretty expensive stuff! Shipping is a killer too....szzzzzz... So back to the bench...maybe I do the not so flexing seat area with lac and the skirts will be sealed with dressing... I keep u all posted how I progress....thanks again to all.....still open thread to hear more... Greetings to Finnland!! James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chancey77 Report post Posted January 29, 2012 NO SWEAT BRO! LOOKING FORWARD TO PICS! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
