Tuff Sew Machines

[BLW]

Hello everyone,

Does anyone have any real world experience with these machines? Their Ebay and Youtube videos are worthless!

I'm looking for the easiest and most cost effective way to take a sewing machine with me to gunshows and other indoor venues to sew custom 1/4" belts and wristbands for "while-you-wait" sales. Tuff Sews "look" like they can do it, but I'm still not convinced.

I'd rather not have to invest in another heavy duty walker...I have an Artisan 3000 in my shop. I also don't want to take any machine requiring a "below-the-table-motor". Just too heavy and awkward to drag around!

Questions:

Needles look like 135x17...but of course, this info is not noted in their machine specs.

Bobbin class? Also not noted

Yes, they say it can sew with 69 bonded nylon thread.

Is the machine 110% all-metal machinery inside...NO PLASTIC ANYTHING INSIDE???

Is their a propriety roller edge guide??? I can see the 2 holes common on all home machines, but Tuff Sew makes no mention of guides in their poorly produced videos.

I know I could ask them, but I know all the answers will be positive. I want to know how durable and really "TUFF" these machine are.

I'm looking for a real world review of a Tuff Sew machine from a leatherworker.

Is there anyone in the Raleigh,Durham,Chapel Hill, NC area who has one?

Thanks,

Bob Marshall

www.bobsleatherworks.com

919-889-7894

[Wizcrafts]

I don't know about the Tuff-Sew portable walking foot machine, but I did briefly have an Alphasew portable, which is basically the same machine. There was nothing tuff about it and it did not sew. The machine appeared to have taken a shock on the bottom from the box being dropped during shipping. That shock caused the main shaft to jam, bending the soft metal cranks that turn the machine hopelessly beyond normal repair.

The metal used in most of these machines is soft and easily bent. However, had it arrived intact, the most thickness it was meant to sew was 1/4 inch. Some members have modified their portable walkers to sew up to 3/8 inch, but I don't remember which brands, nor do I know if the machines held up to the increased stress. Further, they have top and bottom feed with teeth on both feet. They are meant for sewing denim, awning, vinyl and sail material, not leather.

Sailrite is advertising that their new machines have beefed up steel rods and cranks and better polished and flattened mating surfaces. You might have a better chance of sewing 1/4 inch belts with a Sailrite, equipped with the "Monster Wheel" conversion, than a clone from eBay..

These machines do use system 135x16 and 135x17 needles and have a standard class 15 bobbin.

[BLW]

Thanks Wizcraft,

You have confirmed my worst fear based upon the old rule: you get what you pay for.

I just got dumb lucky and scored a 1911 edition of a Singer 151W1 in basically unbelievable excellent condition with all the necessary accessories for under $200. All I have to do is set her up with a servo-motor on a table with wheels and I'll have my "portable" short-bed walker for lighweight leather sewing at gunshows.

I know where there's a 31-15 head locally for only $300 is nearly mint condition. My local Singer man has it. He is 87 and still running his family business. I keep telling him not to sell her until I can get the $$$ together. I really "love" old black Singers. And 31-15's are belt-free gear driven machines that basically can pound all day long! Probably the best drop feed factory garment machine ever made using 135X17 needles...but, my most serious admiration for walkers is reserved for 111W155's. I'm in Raleigh, NC and everytime I see one I want its in Montana, California or upstate New York. This coming summmer, if the guy doesn't sell her, I might drive up to Cornith, NY to get her for $400...what a deal!

Consews are great too...but, I just prefer Singers.

Look for another post from me about early 1900's Singer 95-1's. I have 2 of them and one was converted from 88x1 needles to 16x257. It is sewing okay with her leather timing belt still in fair condition. I bought her on Ebay and didn't know about the leather belts. Then, I found another one complete in some guy's garage...belonged to his ex-wife's mother. But, it was beat up with a lot of dust, the Singer clutch motor, coked oil, LOTS of accessories and a broken timing belt. Got the whole lot for $150...bought her for parts.

Then, I got interested in trying to make a new belt for her after learning they are no longer available. A retired machinist friend of mine is working with me to make replacement belts for these 95-1 machines. I think they were used in 95-1 through the 95-9's. 95-10's are gear driven. They are tough short bed pounders and at one time were front line machines is garment and glove factories.

Anyway...that's its for now...thanks agin for the review on the Alphasew/Tuff Sew machines.

Bob

[Wizcrafts]

I have a Singer 31-15 that I believe was built around 1915, It sews perfectly. I replaced several worn screws and the needle bar. It does NOT use 135 system needles; they are too big around and hit the side of the hole in the throat pate.. It uses DBx1 - 16x257 needles and interestingly, my leftover 134 needles from a Pfaff I used to own.

[Slow Learner]

I to have a Singer 31-15 and would love to know just what it will do. It has not been used in several years so I am taking it in today to have it cleaned and adjusted. I plan to make holsters and belts to give you an idea as to the thickness of leather that I will be working with. Anything you can add would be gratefully accepted.

[billymac814]

What size of thread are you planning on using for gun belts? I stitch my gun belts with 277 and probably 207 would be the thinnest thread if use. I have a CB 4500 that I use for them, I wouldn't want to use much smaller than that. I also have a Consew 206rb and honestly stitching gun belts its pretty maxed out stitching that thickness of firm leather with 207, I personally wouldn't want to use anything smaller. The thickness really isnt the issue as much the hardness of the leather. That machine will punch through 1/4"-3/8" of softer garment leather with no problem. I can't imagine a home machine doing any better than it does.

If I were going to be making them on site somewhere I'd probably go with the Boss on the cheap end or look into that "portable" 441, I can't recall the manufacturer but it has the motor mounted to the head. Another option would be a 45k head, someone else just mentioned putting a knob on the handwheel to use it without a motor.

If I couldn't afford to do one of those options I would stitch them down the sides at home and cut them to length at the show and handsew around the tip, if you're careful about how you cut them it won't be noticeable at all. I've had to cut off one a little bit before and I just cut at the next stitching hole, that have me enough space to keep the same distance from the edge all the way around the tip and it was hardly noticeable.

[Wizcrafts]

I too use my Cowboy CB4500 for stitching belts and holsters. It can use a variety of thread sizes, up to #415. I usually sew holsters and bridle leather belts with #277 thread, using a system 794, #25 needle.

You cannot do this on a Singer 31 class machine, nor on an upholstery grade machine. You need a leather stitcher that has beefed up moving and tensioning parts to sew beyond 3/8 inches with thread sizes larger than 138 or maybe 207.

Tailoring machines are not built to tension heavy thread, nor to penetrate and hold down dense or thick leather.

[Slow Learner]

Thanks, I just got off the phone with a Cowboy dealer in Dallas/Fort Worth and I think I will be getting a CB4500 thanks to you and others input. I struggled with a Techsew 5100/4100 but I believe the CB4500 will give the least problems and let a novis get started sewing sooner. Now do I get the short 10" or 16" cylender????? Again thanks to everyone for you help.

[billymac814]

That's an easy decision. Get the long arm. There's not enough price difference not to, especially if you're new, who knows what you'll decide to sew in the future. I think the only way I'd go with a short arm would be if I got a really good deal on one or I was say setting up a production facility that was very specific and I knew a long arm would never be needed.

Depending on your location you can check with Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing machines. He gives great service and his prices are good.

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

Stop right there!

Adjusted? If you want to sew then this is the machine you need to use to learn how to do your own basic servicing.

I to have a Singer 31-15 and would love to know just what it will do. It has not been used in several years so I am taking it in today to have it cleaned and adjusted. I plan to make holsters and belts to give you an idea as to the thickness of leather that I will be working with. Anything you can add would be gratefully accepted.