prodgi Report post Posted February 4, 2012 By saying I'm a new guy I mean I only know what I've been able to learn around here and on youtube. I completed 4 holster (only 2 turned out) and a couple of mag pouches in the last year, so yea, I'm pretty new at this stuff. Here is a my latest and the best I've been able to turn out. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out. I know that most guys like a certain amount of cant to aid in conceal-ability but I find the draw too awkward with a 10-15 degree cant. So in other words the 0deg of cant is intentional and the way I've been carrying for the last 4 years. What I don't like so far is the thickness. Belt loop is mounted in the thickest portion of the holster and sticks out a lot, I may try a different design for the loop. So here are a few questions. I live pretty close to a Tandy leather and have just been getting everything from there, I have no idea what type of leather I used, what should I use? Is the Tandy stuff ok or should I be buying something else? I don't care for the high gloss finish, is there a different sealer or process I can use for more of a matte finish? I'm currently using an aerosol spray of Leather Sheen. I'd much rather have a finish like that of the beltman belt in the above pic. I'm having issues with boning, once I get it formed the leather has been burnished and the dye seems to not soak into those areas, how do I correct this? As a new guy and just a hobbyist I'm obviously hand sewing this stuff. What thread per inch should I be using? I currently using an over stitch tool to lay out the stitching. I'm using the 6 and to me it seems the holes are too close together not leaving enough leather between them once they are punched. Anyone ever feel the same way? I know that's a lot of questions but you guys are pretty sharp. Also feel free to critique. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) By saying I'm a new guy I mean I only know what I've been able to learn around here and on youtube. I completed 4 holster (only 2 turned out) and a couple of mag pouches in the last year, so yea, I'm pretty new at this stuff. Here is a my latest and the best I've been able to turn out. Overall I'm happy with the way it turned out. I know that most guys like a certain amount of cant to aid in conceal-ability but I find the draw too awkward with a 10-15 degree cant. So in other words the 0deg of cant is intentional and the way I've been carrying for the last 4 years. What I don't like so far is the thickness. Belt loop is mounted in the thickest portion of the holster and sticks out a lot, I may try a different design for the loop. So here are a few questions. I live pretty close to a Tandy leather and have just been getting everything from there, I have no idea what type of leather I used, what should I use? Is the Tandy stuff ok or should I be buying something else? I don't care for the high gloss finish, is there a different sealer or process I can use for more of a matte finish? I'm currently using an aerosol spray of Leather Sheen. I'd much rather have a finish like that of the beltman belt in the above pic. I'm having issues with boning, once I get it formed the leather has been burnished and the dye seems to not soak into those areas, how do I correct this? As a new guy and just a hobbyist I'm obviously hand sewing this stuff. What thread per inch should I be using? I currently using an over stitch tool to lay out the stitching. I'm using the 6 and to me it seems the holes are too close together not leaving enough leather between them once they are punched. Anyone ever feel the same way? I know that's a lot of questions but you guys are pretty sharp. Also feel free to critique. Thanks From the grumpy old guy and FWIW; I use only shoulder leather, either single or double shoulders equal yo 8/10 oz. (I use two layers of 4/5 oz). I purchase from Springfield Leather. I don't use much from Tandy any longer. Believe it or don't but I use 'Mop and Glo' (the floor stuff) for a finish. I mix it 50/50 with water and just 'mist' it on with an airbrush. It's almost identical to any of the 'Sheen' products, (per the data sheet) just stronger due to it's intended use for floors. As said, just 'mist' it on, if no airbrush is available, an old sprayer from Windex works well also. Just stay off of your project a way, and allow a light coat to lay on the leather, (it'll absorb in very short order) give it a couple of minutes and hit it again --- lightly. I then follow up after thoroughly dry --- an hour or so) with a light coat of Kiwi neutral polish, buffed out. I don't 'bone' my holsters, I mold them by hand. 'Boning' and molding are two different things. I do, however, dye all parts prior to assembly. As to black, you need to buff the snot out of the pieces after the dye is thoroughly dry (24 hours or so) I hand stitch all of my goods and use 6 SPI, and feel that it is a very good size for most of my work. One last thing, I'd get that sharp corner rounded off in further work. You'll find that those pointy corners don't wear well, they'll degrade rather quickly Here's a pic of and Avenger style holster finished with Mop and Glo and the Kiwi --- and hand stitched at 6 SPI. Mike Edited February 4, 2012 by katsass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joshk Report post Posted February 4, 2012 I like the overall design..... Good job on the construction too.... You said you don't like the thickness.... What size leather are you using? As for the finish, Jim(Beltman) uses Fiebings Leather Balm cut 50/50 with tap water.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prodgi Report post Posted February 4, 2012 The leather thickness is not the issue, it's the overall outside thickness of the holster that seems excessive. BTW the leather is 6-7oz. Thanks for the heads up in the finish and needing to round the edges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites