Members glockanator Posted February 8, 2012 Members Report Posted February 8, 2012 What size T Nuts do y'all use for IWB holsters? Quote
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted February 9, 2012 Contributing Member Report Posted February 9, 2012 6/32 Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Members joshk Posted February 9, 2012 Members Report Posted February 9, 2012 I use #8-32's.... Quote www.kolbesonleatherworks.com www.shopleatherworks.com www.facebook.com/kolbesonleatherworks
Members evandailey Posted February 9, 2012 Members Report Posted February 9, 2012 How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube? Quote
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted February 9, 2012 Contributing Member Report Posted February 9, 2012 How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube? Thread a 3" long screw in from the back and set it to the depth I'll need....then it's off to the belt sander. Take it right to the surface of the screw, taking care to keep it squared. Then, when done, turn the screw out past the sanded area to straighten the threads. Remove the screw, and install the t-nut. Incidentally, I do use 8/32 from time to time. I like the 6/32 because I can use a 6/32 machine screw and it sets nicely inside a line 24 snap without any modifications. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Members evandailey Posted February 9, 2012 Members Report Posted February 9, 2012 Thread a 3" long screw in from the back and set it to the depth I'll need....then it's off to the belt sander. Take it right to the surface of the screw, taking care to keep it squared. Then, when done, turn the screw out past the sanded area to straighten the threads. Remove the screw, and install the t-nut. Incidentally, I do use 8/32 from time to time. I like the 6/32 because I can use a 6/32 machine screw and it sets nicely inside a line 24 snap without any modifications. Thanks TwinOaks. That's what I did but I didn't know if someone had a source for shorter shanked ones. Quote
Members glockanator Posted February 9, 2012 Author Members Report Posted February 9, 2012 Thanks for the info! One more dumb question can the straps be moved for either right or left handed? Or should I ask the customer which he wants? Quote
Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted February 9, 2012 Contributing Member Report Posted February 9, 2012 Typically, when I use t-nuts, I bury them between two layers of leather to provide a solid leather back on the holster...whether rough out, or smooth. So, the way I construct them, no the straps can't be moved from one side to the other. Besides, if you have a sweat shield on the holster, that can't normally be relocated....though I guess you could build it as modularly as you want. Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Members Reaper Posted February 11, 2012 Members Report Posted February 11, 2012 I use #8-32's.... ditto, picked that up from stripping an old Safariland Duty rig. Quote No sir, he fell into that bullet
Members malabar Posted February 11, 2012 Members Report Posted February 11, 2012 How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube? I neither clip the prongs nor grind down the length of the t-nut. When setting my t-nuts, I use enough pressure to push the prongs up into the leather and make the base flush. That helps to ensure that the nut is firmly anchored in the leather and will not turn under torque. I punch the holes in the strap the same size as the holes for the t-nut. For IWBs, I use two t-nuts for each strap. The ends of the t-nuits become indexing pins for the straps and keep the straps from twisting under torque. tk Quote
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