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Posted

What size T Nuts do y'all use for IWB holsters?

  • Contributing Member
Posted

6/32

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

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  • Members
Posted

I use #8-32's....

www.kolbesonleatherworks.com

www.shopleatherworks.com

www.facebook.com/kolbesonleatherworks

  • Members
Posted

How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube?

  • Contributing Member
Posted

How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube?

Thread a 3" long screw in from the back and set it to the depth I'll need....then it's off to the belt sander. Take it right to the surface of the screw, taking care to keep it squared. Then, when done, turn the screw out past the sanded area to straighten the threads. Remove the screw, and install the t-nut.

Incidentally, I do use 8/32 from time to time. I like the 6/32 because I can use a 6/32 machine screw and it sets nicely inside a line 24 snap without any modifications.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.

  • Members
Posted

Thread a 3" long screw in from the back and set it to the depth I'll need....then it's off to the belt sander. Take it right to the surface of the screw, taking care to keep it squared. Then, when done, turn the screw out past the sanded area to straighten the threads. Remove the screw, and install the t-nut.

Incidentally, I do use 8/32 from time to time. I like the 6/32 because I can use a 6/32 machine screw and it sets nicely inside a line 24 snap without any modifications.

Thanks TwinOaks. That's what I did but I didn't know if someone had a source for shorter shanked ones.

  • Members
Posted

Thanks for the info! One more dumb question can the straps be moved for either right or left handed? Or should I ask the customer which he wants?

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Typically, when I use t-nuts, I bury them between two layers of leather to provide a solid leather back on the holster...whether rough out, or smooth. So, the way I construct them, no the straps can't be moved from one side to the other. Besides, if you have a sweat shield on the holster, that can't normally be relocated....though I guess you could build it as modularly as you want.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.

  • Members
Posted

I use #8-32's....

ditto, picked that up from stripping an old Safariland Duty rig.

No sir, he fell into that bullet

  • Members
Posted

How do you guys account for the shank length being too long when sandwiching between two layers of leather. I know may people just clip the prongs but what about the threaded tube?

I neither clip the prongs nor grind down the length of the t-nut. When setting my t-nuts, I use enough pressure to push the prongs up into the leather and make the base flush. That helps to ensure that the nut is firmly anchored in the leather and will not turn under torque.

I punch the holes in the strap the same size as the holes for the t-nut. For IWBs, I use two t-nuts for each strap. The ends of the t-nuits become indexing pins for the straps and keep the straps from twisting under torque.

tk

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