JustWakinUp Report post Posted July 2, 2008 I'm wondering if once i atom wax and finish the project can I begin to soak it down with neatsfoot oil to make the vegtan much more pliable? I'm going to be starting a guitar strap in the next couple weeks and the guy wants it tooled but also wants it to be supple like the chrome tan/latigo type leathers. So is the neatsfoot oil the way to go? Should I neatsfoot before the atom wax? Any ideas welcome, Oh and in advance in the event I neglect the most important part. Thank You for anytime you may spend on your reply. Thanks a ton guys/gals Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abn Report post Posted July 2, 2008 (edited) Soaking veg-tan in neatsfoot oil is not recommended -- it'll cause the leather to be "weepy" and will weaken it over time. A light coat would be fine, but won't produce the softening effect you're looking for. If the customer wants a supple leather like latigo or chrome-tanned, he/she will have to give up the tooling. If you end up using latigo, I'd use a lining leather as well since the color on the back side can sometimes transfer. Good luck! -Alex Edited July 2, 2008 by abn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustWakinUp Report post Posted July 2, 2008 Soaking veg-tan in neatsfoot oil is not recommended -- it'll cause the leather to be "weepy" and will weaken it over time. A light coat would be fine, but won't produce the softening effect you're looking for.If the customer wants a supple leather like latigo or chrome-tanned, he/she will have to give up the tooling. If you end up using latigo, I'd use a lining leather as well since the color on the back side can sometimes transfer. Good luck! -Alex Thanks alex, I think i'll give it a good bit of conditioning and just let them know that over time and use of the product will give it the suppleness they are looking for Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tosch Report post Posted July 2, 2008 (edited) I know of a product called "effax leather balsam" . A quick google search came up with this US source for it http://www.adamshorsesupply.com/browse.cfm/4,19.htm I used a very little to make reins (harness leather) more pliable, I let them sit over night and apllied another light coat. They got w a y too pliable. An old saddle from the 1940/50 with very stiff leather, I put it on and it became pliable again. However I do not know whether they have chanced the formula ( but mine also contains the ingredients they mention in the ad), I have mine for more then 10 years and I do not use it anymore untill I need something to be very pliable, so I avoid using it. Use it very sparingly , let it sit a while , roll the strap back and forth between your hands and let it sit another day or two. If needed do it again, but use it sparingly. If you want something to be much more pliable - this will get it done, I am sure. To not affect the tooling - because it does have a darkening effect - you might want to use it only on the back side of the strap. Tosch Edited July 2, 2008 by Tosch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kseidel Report post Posted July 2, 2008 JustWakinUp, If you sharply bend and flex the strap after you tool it and before you oil, the strap woll be much softer. Also, using saddle skirting leveled to the correct thickness will be naturally softer than strap leather. Saddle skirting is tanned twice as long and is finished differently at the tannery, making it more supple. Olive oil will penetrate and wick deeper into the fibers than neatsfoot and allow more oil without oversaturating the leather. Both will darken significantly! Try a scrap strap to check out the result. Keith Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted July 2, 2008 My personal experience of quality 4mm thick vegtan is that it gets nice and supple quite quickly without any extras or additives - especially guitar straps that see a fair bit of use. I made myself a single thickness tooled strap for my acoustic about three months ago, stained it with oil based stain and finished it with multiple coats of resolene. It didn't sit well for almost a month but is developing a bit more shape and fitting itself to my shoulder a lot better now. Another vegtan strap I made about two years ago for my bass went into shape very quickly - after a stiff and uncomfortable start the thing now ripples like a python... It may be as well to remember that a bass (or almost any electric guitar) is a lot heavier and obviously makes the leather 'work' more. Just get on and make it- you'll learn more from that than you ever will from me! Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites