Thinking Of Trying A Double Layered Pancake

[markush]

I've been thinking of doing some double layer (flesh to flesh) pancakes using some 4-5 oz Tandy Craftsman Oak shoulders. Is there a reason NOT to do a pancake like this?

I've been using Hermann Oak for the stuff I've done so far but the Tandy Craftsman Oak shoulders are on sale right now for 3.50 a SQFT...am I going to regret going down to the Tandy Craftsman stuff?

Edited February 18, 2012 by markush

[Denster]

Yes you are going to regret it. Going from Hermann Oak to Tandy bargain leather you will not be happy with the results.

[Shooter McGavin]

I use Hermann Oak, but have done the same thing for lined holsters.

[joshk]

I use Hermann Oak, but have done the same thing for lined holsters.

me too to both....

[katsass]

I've been thinking of doing some double layer (flesh to flesh) pancakes using some 4-5 oz Tandy Craftsman Oak shoulders. Is there a reason NOT to do a pancake like this?

I've been using Hermann Oak for the stuff I've done so far but the Tandy Craftsman Oak shoulders are on sale right now for 3.50 a SQFT...am I going to regret going down to the Tandy Craftsman stuff?

FWIW from the old grumpy guy; I make almost all of my holsters from two layers of shoulder leather. I don't use ANY leather from Tandy anymore. I purchase almost all of my leather from Springfield Leather. Tandy was pretty good back 35 - 40 years ago, but have degraded in the more recent years IMO. You will need to stitch ALL edges however. I think that you will notice that the two layer method results is a much more firm holster than one from an equal weight single thickness of similar leather after wet molding and drying. I prefer to use the two layer method of construction. Mike

P.S. Use a good quality of contact cement , roll the two layers down flat with something (even Ma's rolling pin) after placing the two pieces together, and let it sit over night before you start to work with it. This allows for complete adhesion.

Edited February 18, 2012 by katsass

[markush]

Thanks guys, I was hoping that doubling up the cheap stuff wouldn't be so bad. I've been working with a couple of HO shoulders that I got Springfield to cut me. One their "Craftsman" grade and one of their "B" grade, both in 8-9oz.The quality difference between the two was such that I probably wouldn't use the Craftsman grade for holsters again. And with the B grade costing me $8.00 a SqFt I can't bring myself to get it in 4-5oz and then double it up. I'd have close to $20.00 in leather in each holster. If I could sell my stuff for premium prices OK, but that's not happening.

[Colt Hammerless]

If you can split, skive, or sand the leather down to 4/5 oz, you can get No. 1 grade 6/7 oz veg-tan double shoulders from American Leather Direct for $4.50 a sq. ft. They have No. 2 also, but it's only 5 cents less per square. http://aleatherd.com/ They don't have their prices on the website, but I just got their price sheet at the leather show in Wickenburg last week. They have no minimum order, and I've heard they're pretty fair on shipping. They're the U.S. importer for Chahin leather. I have some sample swatches of their skirting and latigo leather, and it's nice.

Another option is Double K leather, who import Sadesa leather: They have A grade 6/7 double shoulders for $4.16 a square, and B grade for $3.65. The website says they just opened a new wharehouse to serve smaller orders from leather crafters and such http://doublekleather.com/

I would think both of these options would be quite a step up from that Craftsman Oak from Tandy, for close to the same price.

Colt Hammerless

[Colt Hammerless]

Oh, another thing. On Double K's website they show bellies in different weights starting at $1.61 a foot. Might be nice for practice, and making patterns. Don't know if ALD has bellies or not.

[UberSquid]

Is I know this thread is kinda old but I have thought about doing this very same thing. Where I live the only resource I have access to is a Tandy Leather an hour away. I have some scrap that I've made a couple holsters with. Unfortunately a lot of what I have is chrome tanned so is useless.

My question is are bellies usable for holsters? I like the idea of gluing two thinner pieces flesh side together to get a lined holster especially is cheaper belly leather is usable!

ThanksJeremiah

[Shooter McGavin]

Is I know this thread is kinda old but I have thought about doing this very same thing. Where I live the only resource I have access to is a Tandy Leather an hour away. I have some scrap that I've made a couple holsters with. Unfortunately a lot of what I have is chrome tanned so is useless.

My question is are bellies usable for holsters? I like the idea of gluing two thinner pieces flesh side together to get a lined holster especially is cheaper belly leather is usable!

ThanksJeremiah

Welcome to the forum!

Personally I would not use belly leather for a holster.

[katsass]

Is I know this thread is kinda old but I have thought about doing this very same thing. Where I live the only resource I have access to is a Tandy Leather an hour away. I have some scrap that I've made a couple holsters with. Unfortunately a lot of what I have is chrome tanned so is useless.

My question is are bellies usable for holsters? I like the idea of gluing two thinner pieces flesh side together to get a lined holster especially is cheaper belly leather is usable!

ThanksJeremiah

From the grumpy old guy; ditto on what Shooter says, bellies are just not suitable for holster work. I make almost all of my holsters from doubled up 4/5oz or a combination of 4/5 and 5/6oz shoulder --- only. It makes all of my stuff lined and, most important (to me) it gives me two grain layers in the holster, which produces a much firmer molded product (IMO). Bellies will 'wilt' and not hold wet molding much at all. Mike

[UberSquid]

From the grumpy old guy; ditto on what Shooter says, bellies are just not suitable for holster work. I make almost all of my holsters from doubled up 4/5oz or a combination of 4/5 and 5/6oz shoulder --- only. It makes all of my stuff lined and, most important (to me) it gives me two grain layers in the holster, which produces a much firmer molded product (IMO). Bellies will 'wilt' and not hold wet molding much at all. Mike

Ok, so no bellies.

Thanks for the input!

Jeremiah

[Colt Hammerless]

Ditto what everyone said about bellies. They're good for making new patterns, testing finishes, etc. but not for a useable holster.

[UberSquid]

How about this then? I'm heading to Indianapolis this weekend to pick up some new leather and this is right in my price range not to mention the right amount of leather for what I need! I simply don't need a whole cow laying around my house...

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/store/99606-11.aspx

I know a lot of people on here don't seem to like Tandy too much but it's all that there is around here...

[Colt Hammerless]

Yikes! They want 7 dollars a square for their lowest grade leather! If I were you, I'd call up Springfield Leather and have them cut you a piece the size that you want. They don't charge any extra for this service, and they charge actual shipping, so at worst you'd probably break even, and have a better grade of leather. Here's a link to their imported leather: http://springfieldleather.com/20623/Side%2CTooling%2C2-3oz%2CSoft/

That's going to be thin for a holster unless you are doubling it up as you intended to do with the Tandy leather. They have thicker leathers as well that you could just use a single layer with.

One thing about the lower grade Tandy leathers (maybe the other grades too, I don't know) is that after a while it smells like fish oil, not really like leather.

Anyway, call or e-mail Springfield, tell them what you want to do, and they'll advise you on the best route. You can also get your dyes and finishes and anything else you may need at the same time.

Paul

[Colt Hammerless]

Also, if you go with that leather I linked to and double it up, I'd probably get the 3-4 oz. if I was making an IWB for a normal size pistol. Maybe the 4-5 oz if you're making an OWB for a big blaster like an L or N frame Smith, or an all steel 1911 or something. You could sand the 4-5 oz thinner if you needed to for other projects (assuming you have some sort of power sanding equipment, doing it by hand would take forever.)

Paul

[UberSquid]

Yikes! They want 7 dollars a square for their lowest grade leather! If I were you, I'd call up Springfield Leather and have them cut you a piece the size that you want. They don't charge any extra for this service, and they charge actual shipping, so at worst you'd probably break even, and have a better grade of leather. Here's a link to their imported leather: http://springfieldle...2C2-3oz%2CSoft/

That's going to be thin for a holster unless you are doubling it up as you intended to do with the Tandy leather. They have thicker leathers as well that you could just use a single layer with.

One thing about the lower grade Tandy leathers (maybe the other grades too, I don't know) is that after a while it smells like fish oil, not really like leather.

Anyway, call or e-mail Springfield, tell them what you want to do, and they'll advise you on the best route. You can also get your dyes and finishes and anything else you may need at the same time.

Paul

Perfect! That's exactly why I thought I'd ask! Better leather and lower price plus it saves me two hours in the truck. With the money I save on gas I can get a couple pieces, heavier for the GP100 and lighter for my KelTec. I was going to double everything but from a cost and esthetic point I'm thinking of going with a pig skin lining.

Thanks again for the advice! I can't wait to get my order in from Springfield!

[Colt Hammerless]

Be very careful though ordering from Springfield, their website is leatherworker's crack! Also they're probably the most customer oriented company, in any industry, anywhere. You will be back for more.

Paul

[kwelna]

Ok a couple of dumb questions froma newbie.

1. If you double layer the leather, when you go to "Wet form" the leather, does the contact cement tend to loosen up?

2. Does the glue make wet molding the leather any more dificult?

I like the idea of basically end up with finished leather insde and out.

[Denster]

Ok a couple of dumb questions froma newbie.

1. If you double layer the leather, when you go to "Wet form" the leather, does the contact cement tend to loosen up?

2. Does the glue make wet molding the leather any more dificult?

I like the idea of basically end up with finished leather insde and out.

Not dumb questions . the answers are no and no.