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Posted

Is I know this thread is kinda old but I have thought about doing this very same thing. Where I live the only resource I have access to is a Tandy Leather an hour away. I have some scrap that I've made a couple holsters with. Unfortunately a lot of what I have is chrome tanned so is useless.

My question is are bellies usable for holsters? I like the idea of gluing two thinner pieces flesh side together to get a lined holster especially is cheaper belly leather is usable!

ThanksJeremiah

From the grumpy old guy; ditto on what Shooter says, bellies are just not suitable for holster work. I make almost all of my holsters from doubled up 4/5oz or a combination of 4/5 and 5/6oz shoulder --- only. It makes all of my stuff lined and, most important (to me) it gives me two grain layers in the holster, which produces a much firmer molded product (IMO). Bellies will 'wilt' and not hold wet molding much at all. Mike

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Posted

From the grumpy old guy; ditto on what Shooter says, bellies are just not suitable for holster work. I make almost all of my holsters from doubled up 4/5oz or a combination of 4/5 and 5/6oz shoulder --- only. It makes all of my stuff lined and, most important (to me) it gives me two grain layers in the holster, which produces a much firmer molded product (IMO). Bellies will 'wilt' and not hold wet molding much at all. Mike

Ok, so no bellies.

Thanks for the input!

Jeremiah

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Posted

How about this then? I'm heading to Indianapolis this weekend to pick up some new leather and this is right in my price range not to mention the right amount of leather for what I need! I simply don't need a whole cow laying around my house...

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/store/99606-11.aspx

I know a lot of people on here don't seem to like Tandy too much but it's all that there is around here...

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Posted

Yikes! They want 7 dollars a square for their lowest grade leather! If I were you, I'd call up Springfield Leather and have them cut you a piece the size that you want. They don't charge any extra for this service, and they charge actual shipping, so at worst you'd probably break even, and have a better grade of leather. Here's a link to their imported leather: http://springfieldleather.com/20623/Side%2CTooling%2C2-3oz%2CSoft/

That's going to be thin for a holster unless you are doubling it up as you intended to do with the Tandy leather. They have thicker leathers as well that you could just use a single layer with.

One thing about the lower grade Tandy leathers (maybe the other grades too, I don't know) is that after a while it smells like fish oil, not really like leather.

Anyway, call or e-mail Springfield, tell them what you want to do, and they'll advise you on the best route. You can also get your dyes and finishes and anything else you may need at the same time.

Paul

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Posted

Also, if you go with that leather I linked to and double it up, I'd probably get the 3-4 oz. if I was making an IWB for a normal size pistol. Maybe the 4-5 oz if you're making an OWB for a big blaster like an L or N frame Smith, or an all steel 1911 or something. You could sand the 4-5 oz thinner if you needed to for other projects (assuming you have some sort of power sanding equipment, doing it by hand would take forever.)

Paul

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Posted

Yikes! They want 7 dollars a square for their lowest grade leather! If I were you, I'd call up Springfield Leather and have them cut you a piece the size that you want. They don't charge any extra for this service, and they charge actual shipping, so at worst you'd probably break even, and have a better grade of leather. Here's a link to their imported leather: http://springfieldle...2C2-3oz%2CSoft/

That's going to be thin for a holster unless you are doubling it up as you intended to do with the Tandy leather. They have thicker leathers as well that you could just use a single layer with.

One thing about the lower grade Tandy leathers (maybe the other grades too, I don't know) is that after a while it smells like fish oil, not really like leather.

Anyway, call or e-mail Springfield, tell them what you want to do, and they'll advise you on the best route. You can also get your dyes and finishes and anything else you may need at the same time.

Paul

Perfect! That's exactly why I thought I'd ask! Better leather and lower price plus it saves me two hours in the truck. With the money I save on gas I can get a couple pieces, heavier for the GP100 and lighter for my KelTec. I was going to double everything but from a cost and esthetic point I'm thinking of going with a pig skin lining.

Thanks again for the advice! I can't wait to get my order in from Springfield!

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Posted

Be very careful though ordering from Springfield, their website is leatherworker's crack! Also they're probably the most customer oriented company, in any industry, anywhere. You will be back for more.

Paul

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Posted

Ok a couple of dumb questions froma newbie.

1. If you double layer the leather, when you go to "Wet form" the leather, does the contact cement tend to loosen up?

2. Does the glue make wet molding the leather any more dificult?

I like the idea of basically end up with finished leather insde and out.

Posted

Ok a couple of dumb questions froma newbie.

1. If you double layer the leather, when you go to "Wet form" the leather, does the contact cement tend to loosen up?

2. Does the glue make wet molding the leather any more dificult?

I like the idea of basically end up with finished leather insde and out.

Not dumb questions . the answers are no and no.

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