Toadflax Report post Posted March 13, 2012 Well, perhaps I'm going a bit too far saying that, but for me it's the worst bit about belt making. I've tried various mechanical methods (slicking wheel in an electric drill, wooden dowel grooved with a round file in an electric drill), different finishes (gum trag, beeswax, spit, diluted PVA glue), different burnishing tools (wood, cloth, antler, bone) but in the end I always come back to gum trag, a bone folder, and lots of elbow grease, because that's what gives me the finish I like – the process is very tactile – you just get a feel of when its ready, something I don't get with en electric drill. Only thing with it is that it can take me up to an hour to burnish the 8 feet or so of edge that a typical belt has (depending on how tired my arm gets!) and that's when I get to thinking "is there a better way?" I clamp the belt in my sewing clam, so can only do about 4-5" at a time – but that's generally plenty enough to do in one go to make sure that the moisture and friction are right. Just interested to know what other people do… Geoff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted March 13, 2012 FWIW from the grumpy old guy: I just moisten my edge with a damp sponge, wipe the edge quickly and lightly with a bar of 'Neutrogena' soap. Burnish with my hardwood burnisher in the variable speed drill. Does the job quickly and easily. OH, I mount the drill in a vice, lock it on and go to it. A drill press should work as well. The Neutrogena is a glycerin soap, and it does make the difference. One bar lasts damned near forever. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ouchmyfinger Report post Posted March 13, 2012 Well, perhaps I'm going a bit too far saying that, but for me it's the worst bit about belt making. I've tried various mechanical methods (slicking wheel in an electric drill, wooden dowel grooved with a round file in an electric drill), different finishes (gum trag, beeswax, spit, diluted PVA glue), different burnishing tools (wood, cloth, antler, bone) but in the end I always come back to gum trag, a bone folder, and lots of elbow grease, because that's what gives me the finish I like – the process is very tactile – you just get a feel of when its ready, something I don't get with en electric drill. Only thing with it is that it can take me up to an hour to burnish the 8 feet or so of edge that a typical belt has (depending on how tired my arm gets!) and that's when I get to thinking "is there a better way?" I clamp the belt in my sewing clam, so can only do about 4-5" at a time – but that's generally plenty enough to do in one go to make sure that the moisture and friction are right. Just interested to know what other people do… he has it spot on. i read this article and tried it and ill never go back, not only do i never need to buy edge coat again but when you dye the edges you can pick whatever color you desire and it is much more accurate to apply than edge coat, way more professional than gum tragacanth, etc... this is 2 pieces of 4oz lined with 2 oz veg tan......used the method in the article. i used fiebings glycerin soap FinishingEdges-2-15-11.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sylvia Report post Posted March 13, 2012 Just interested to know what other people do… Geoff I've burnished with a tandy bone, and wheel by hand. I've used the smooth side of a scrap of veg tanned dampened and formed into a U for edges. I've also used dampened veg tanned to burnish the face of things. I've used saddle soap and beeswax with my tandy burnishing wheel chucked into the drill press. I've used gum-trag by and and with a machine. For what it's worth... ALL CLEAR or see through soaps are glycerine soaps. In fact you can buy glycerine soap base in clear for about $5 for 2 lbs of the stuff.. plus shipping of course. This is the stuff soap makers melt, and add color and fragrance then pour into molds. Well, here is a 2lb batch for $4.15 plus shipping. http://www.bulknaturaloils.com/Products/15936-mp-glycerin-soap-base-clear.aspx I did experiment with something I had left over from my "high maintenance long nail " days.... it's called Dry & Buff Polish dryer and glosser. ... it's in a nail polish bottle. I found the little brush to be handy and it appeared to burnish nice and shiny. However, when the edge was flexed or compressed the burnish returned to a semi-rough state. I abandoned any further tests though it did show potential. I think it might have been better had I slicked with soap or glycerine first, then used the dry and buff. I can't seem to find this stuff online so it might be a mute point. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
