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Bill, to tell you the truth I don't remember where I got the huge spool of natural unwaxed linen thread I have used for a number of years. The thing was enormous! I'm starting to get low on it and am trying to find out where I can replace the thing. For the white, I bought a little spool from Springfield Leather --- but I don't use much white thread. For black and brown I just dunked a wad of the natural linen into a jug of Fiebing's dye and hung it up to dry (watch out, if it slaps you in the face you'll look like you have scars all over the place) --- waxed it good, then when ready to use it, pulled a length through a little piece of brown paper bag to clean of the excess wax. Mike.

I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy a spool of the real Barbours Linen from Campbell Bosworth. It was a bit pricey at about $50 but it is a huge spool and will likely last me many years. It is much better thread than any of the other pre-waxed linen small spools I had bought.

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Related question on how to keep your white thread white: Is it necessary to dye your leather after drilling/making the holes

I've done one project with white thread and didn't like how gray the thread looked after I stitched it, but I always assumed that the dye had darkened the thread, not dirty hands or wax. Most of my thread and projects are black, so I just dye everything again after I've got it stitched. I feel that takes care of any leather that may have been exposed when I drill the holes for stitching. Are you folks who use white thread and a dremel having to dye your work after you drill the holes?

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All of my sewing is hand sewn with the Barbours/Campbell Bosworth linen thread. I melt my own mix of beeswax and pine pitch, and rub it into the thread for each project. Once in awhile, I will get some dirty looking thread, and have had pretty decent luck cleaning it up by running my overstitch wheel over it a few times.

I prefer the linen thread as the synthetic stuff has always slipped on me some, creating loose stitches later. I have not had that problem with the linen. I presume that the fibers lock to each other some in the linen, whereas the nylon is smooth and slides over itself.

I have used up about half of one of those Barbours rolls of white. I dont do much with any other colors, but the few rolls I have are the small predyed spools.

DM

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Posted

All of my sewing is hand sewn with the Barbours/Campbell Bosworth linen thread. I melt my own mix of beeswax and pine pitch, and rub it into the thread for each project. Once in awhile, I will get some dirty looking thread, and have had pretty decent luck cleaning it up by running my overstitch wheel over it a few times.

I prefer the linen thread as the synthetic stuff has always slipped on me some, creating loose stitches later. I have not had that problem with the linen. I presume that the fibers lock to each other some in the linen, whereas the nylon is smooth and slides over itself.

I have used up about half of one of those Barbours rolls of white. I dont do much with any other colors, but the few rolls I have are the small predyed spools.

DM

How do you make up you pitch/wax mixture? I have seen pitch for use in hooves as an antiseptic, is that sutiable?

Do you use left or right twist on the thread? I imagine the twist would be more important for machine use and really wouldn't matter much for hand sewing, opinions?

Thanks

Jeremy

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Posted (edited)

I use a double boiler on my bbq grill outside, and melt about 1/2 pine pitch to 1/2 beeswax together, and pour it into cupcake papers to be used later. I am still using my first batch, but it is a bit soft, so will end up cutting the pitch down some more and going with more beeswax.

It does have the andvantage of making the fingertips sticky when you wax the thread, which makes the needles very easy to grab and pull through the leather.

I am not sure if the hoof type pitch would work or not. What I have I ordered online somewhere a year or two ago. I cant remember where now, but a simple search should find it for you.

As far as the twist, I dont think it matters for hand stitching, but machine work it probably does. I think mine is left hand 5 cord linen.

Good luck, and remember that the wax and pitch is very flammable and to be careful.

EDIT::: Here is a link to Chuck Burrows stitching tutorial with his recipe and method for making your own wax. See #8.. http://www.wrtcleath...therstitch.html

DM

Edited by DaltonMasterson
  • 3 weeks later...
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Posted

Anybody willing to sell me a few yards of the Barbours linen in 5, 6, and 7 cord sizes? I'd like to try a bit before dropping $50 on a spool that I might feel is the wring size. Also what needle is preferred? I've been using some big eye or easy thread needles from Springfield.

Thanks

Jeremy

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

nice post on thread, as a beginer I am always trying to learn. I went with the nylon braided because I thought it would be strong and not rot over time. However it was like trying to get a knot in a worm ! I "borrowed " one of my wifes popuri burners, the little ceremic pots that you put a little candle in the bottom of, then a little beeswax in the top instead of popuri. I then drag the nylon through the melted wax. The waxed nylon works for me. I use a dremel for the stitch holes and for the bit I use a carbide burr. Dentist have really cool carbide and diamond burrs in more shapes and sizes then you can imagine. They only use them once then throw them out. Most dentist will save a handfull of them for you if you ask. Be carefull using the round ones for drilling holes, they tend to wander around once inside the material.

Dave

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