Leather Handle Covers For Hand Tools

[shadow2]

I'd like to make some leather handle covers for hand tools, specifically a pair of pruning shears, to give as a gift. The image is from a collector's edition, which is where I got the idea. This edition costs around $300, and the regular edition, which is the same except for the leather and gold anodization is $45. The regular grips are a dipped plastic which I was thinking I could cut off at the imaginary inseam, and have a template to begin working with the leather. My concern is getting a tight fit, that stays tight as it wears with use, but not so tight that the seam is excessively stressed when sliding the covers on. Is it possible to sew the covers to be too small to install, but them wet them, or heat them in order to get them on. Are there methods for causing leather to shrink and conform to the contours of the handle once they are on. Baking? What types of leather are more suitable for this kind of work? I've done some basic leather-working before--wallet, belt, banjo strap--but never anything in this realm. Any thoughts on this process would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Shadow

Edited April 12, 2012 by shadow2

[ramrod]

if it were me, i'd put them on OVER the plastic. they might be too small to sew if you were to put the leather directly over the steel . plus, the plastic might help them to stay put.

it's going to be tough to stitch them - not much room to move and just small in general.

veg tan lather is what you'd want.....maybe 2/3 oz?

[shadow2]

Thanks for the reply, Ramrod. Regarding the stitching, this tool in particular can be disassembled so I can work with each handle separately. I was just reading some posts on wet forming and am now wondering about the approach of wet forming the leather on the handles, using small clamps down the seam and then sewing it up by hand after it has formed and dried. Originally, I was thinking about sewing, either by hand or with a machine, the covers off of the tool and then trying to slide them on, but I feel like it may be tougher to get a contoured fit that way.

[ramrod]

that wet formng method you described would work. it would hold it's shape after drying and the stitch up would be easy. i guess in retrospect, it might be fairly easy to do this. especially if you can disassemble the shears.

you have to watch out while the leather is wet because it will mark up very easily and you can't get the marks out.

i don't think you could slide the covers on after stitching. too many contours. it just wouldn't go. better to stitch them in place.

Edited April 12, 2012 by ramrod

[Northmount]

For a trial run, I would sew a "tube" that you know will be too tight to slide onto the handle (but not too tight)' then wet the leather by dunking it briefly, then slide it onto the handle, using the handle to stretch the "tube"', align the seam and let it dry. If it doesn't dry tight enough (24 hours), then I would try dampening the leather while on the handle, then force drying it to get it to shrink some more.

If the handle has a rough surface, the leather should stay on better than a smooth handle. The one concern I would have is that if the tool gets wet when used by the user, the leather may come loose and be easily pulled off. It would be worthwhile testing on an old pair of pliers to see if you are getting the results you want.

If you wet form and don't have a tight enough fit, I would consider running some epoxy or other glue of your choice that will stick to steel inside the leather grip and push it back onto the tool. Then even if it gets wet during use, it won't likely slide off.

Have fun experimenting and let us know how it turns out. CTG

[shadow2]

Thanks for your ideas North. By force drying do you mean with something like a heat-gun or hair-dryer or low temp in an oven?

I had thought about the glue as well, and I can also "knurl" the handle before I put the leather on. The handle is actually aluminum, not steel, so it won't be difficult to rough it up with a hacksaw blade.

[Northmount]

1334199741[/url]' post='243311']

Thanks for your ideas North. By force drying do you mean with something like a heat-gun or hair-dryer or low temp in an oven?

Any of those methods. Just monitor closely and don't get too high a temperature. There is at least 1 thread here where someone did a good job of destroying their work. Try a search for heat box or drying box or something like that. He was using either a heat gun or blow dryer if I remember correctly!

CTG

[NoName]

I did this to some saddlery tools the following way:

Cut a strip of 3-4 oz veg tanned leather about an inch longer than the handle you want to cover and wide enough to wrap around it with about an inch to spare.

Apply contact cement to the flesh side of the leather and to the handle.

Wet the leather until it is soggy.

Wrap the leather around the handle and pinch a seem along the inside of the handle with a pair of glazing (glass breaking) pliers.

The leather will be too wet to hold a good form at this point. Set it aside and check on it periodically as it dries, each time pinching the seem again.

When it is dry, hand stitch the seem as close to the handle as possible. Use a #6 overstitch wheel and a sharpened and polished awl (no stitching groover as it may weaken the seem).

Trim away the excess leather about 3/32 inch from the stitching.

Stain the leather the desired color. When dry, burnish the edge and seal the color in with lacquer.

It helps to wrap the jaws of the glazing pliers with very thin neutral colored leather to keep them from marking up the leather you are trying to form.

Best of luck!

Edited April 12, 2012 by NoName

[shadow2]

I did this to some saddlery tools the following way:

Thanks--your tools look great... Just like what I have in mind. A few questions about your method:

1. Not familiar with contact cement--is it ok to soak the leather after the cement has been applied? Will it still adhere to the handle?
2. Do you use a lock stitch with awe. That is, two pieces of thread locked at each hole like a sewing machine?
3. For wrapping the jaws of the pliers, do you suggest wet forming the leather to fit them or something less?
4. Was just doing some research on the overstitch wheel but wanted to clarify. Does #6 refer to the holes/inch? Does this tool actually punch holes or just mark where they will be?

Again, thank you.

[NoName]

Contact cement will work as I described previously. Be careful not to get any on the grain side of your leather prior to dyeing. It seals up the pores and prevents the dye from penetrating.

I would not recommend using the lockstitch awl. Get "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" book by Al Stohlman. This book describes the best methods. When you get the awl, it will come blade and a handle seperately. Plan on spending some time sharpening and polishing the awl blade. It will probably not work well when new. The edges need to be sharp and all sides need to be polished to a mirror finish. Jewelers Rouge on a felt buffing wheel (Dremel tool) or on a leather strop will work.

Yes, the number of the overstitch wheel is the spacing of holes per inch, and no it does not punch the holes. It only marks them so the stitches are even.

For the jaws of the pliers... I used contact cement and water. I coated the jaws and the backside of the leather with contact cement. I placed the leather on the inside of the jaws first, then dampened the leather and started trimming and wrapping.

Word of caution...When working with wet veg tanned leather make sure your hands are clean and your work surface is clean. The wet leather picks up dirt and stains very easily. An Oxalic solution will bleach out some stains.

[RNorton]

I was wondering, is there any way possible to get a leather cover for the knobish handle of my shallalegh to add some character and some comfort to it?

[RNorton]

I was wondering, is there any way possible to get a leather cover for the knobish handle of my shallalegh to add some character and some comfort to it?

[jasj]

Braided knots such as turksheads, pineapples or gauchos made with leather lacing are ideal for covering cylindrical or spherical objects. Just check out the knots covering the end of most whip handles. Try to find a whipmaker in your area.