How Can I Remove This Coating From My Leather Boots?

[mkitzis]

First off I would like to say thank you in advance to anyone able to help as this will save me tons of time and effort. I am new to the forum and am just dumbfounded with how much I have begun to learn by looking over peoples projects and reading tutorials.

I have a rather odd request but if there is anywhere to find an answer it looks as if I am in the right place. I have a pair of skate boots, they are all hand made in Minnesota using the same techniques they have been since day one, yet they are still the best in the game after several decades. My problem is they used a new material a few years back that was simply a color coating over a black leather, it has a chameleon effect with the leather as it changes colors from different angles. Well with that said it was a great idea that was poorly executed. The leather was very stiff and the coating wore off over a few months. My problem is the boots still have tons of life in them but I cant get the rest of the coating off. It wore off in the ankle area from all the movement and play in the leather at that part but the lower half is very stiff and has no wear thus the coating/laminate is still in tact. I have tried to remove it via finger nails and it is taking forever, I would easily have 8 hours into each boot to get these done and at that point a new pair of boots is only $200-300. So I am here asking for anyone help in hopes that a chemical can be used to remove this. Below I have a picture of what I am working with to give everyone an idea. Thanks in advanced and sorry for the rant.

[Leatherimages]

Mkitzis, (interesting group of sylables you have for a handle, pardner)

My experience tells me you should be ok with these.

You're on the right track, a solution would be prefereble to fingernails. Speaking of fingernails, Acetone (the old kind of fingerenail polish remeover) might work for starters. There's other solutions that might cut it also, as it's probably an acrylic color coat of some kind. But really, the best thing would be to use a leather specific solution with steel wool.

When I read your post first, I thought I was reading snake boots, and when I saw it is either textured cowhide, maybe water buffalo, I was convinced you'll pull these out just fine.

The product you want is Deglazer. There are several different makers of the stuff, of which Feibings is but one. Degalzer should be available from a "shoe finder" maybe a local shoe repair shop can help you get some, or ever pour you a bottle. *Dye Remover by Magix is not the same thing.* I'm told Deglazer has an oil of some kind in it to keep it from drying the leather. So here's what I do to get a good dye job on footwear leathers.

With a 000 steel wool pad, scrub the color off with the deglazer. You'll work up a slurry, so wipe it off with a rag as you work your way around the boot. There's no need to spread it around as you go. After you've worked it off in the first pass, repeat for a thorough deglazing. Next is to apply your spirit dye. Since it looks to be blue leather that was used, you'll get a good final black using Feibings Oil Dye. But if you want to use regular Feibings Leather Dye, I don't think it'll matter, just be certain to wipe all of the "dye stuffs" off immediatly after application.

I don't think it matters if the leather is dry or not from the deglazer. I've done it both ways.

Put the boot up to dry with trees in them, and leave it alone for a day or two. Your job will look way better if you keep the trees in them, cedar or plastic won't matter.

After they are completely dry, now one could use "a color coating". Easiest and smoothest is a leather color spray, again found through shoe finders. My advise is to use as little as possible to get an even coat. Even if you choose a flexible brush-on acrylic, less is more with leather.

Again, let it dry completely, and follow with a cream polish (let it dry before buffing), followed by a wax polish. You should be ready to skate your legs off with beautiful black custom boots.

Good luck,

Paul

[mkitzis]

Mkitzis, (interesting group of sylables you have for a handle, pardner)

My experience tells me you should be ok with these.

You're on the right track, a solution would be prefereble to fingernails. Speaking of fingernails, Acetone (the old kind of fingerenail polish remeover) might work for starters. There's other solutions that might cut it also, as it's probably an acrylic color coat of some kind. But really, the best thing would be to use a leather specific solution with steel wool.

When I read your post first, I thought I was reading snake boots, and when I saw it is either textured cowhide, maybe water buffalo, I was convinced you'll pull these out just fine.

The product you want is Deglazer. There are several different makers of the stuff, of which Feibings is but one. Degalzer should be available from a "shoe finder" maybe a local shoe repair shop can help you get some, or ever pour you a bottle. *Dye Remover by Magix is not the same thing.* I'm told Deglazer has an oil of some kind in it to keep it from drying the leather. So here's what I do to get a good dye job on footwear leathers.

With a 000 steel wool pad, scrub the color off with the deglazer. You'll work up a slurry, so wipe it off with a rag as you work your way around the boot. There's no need to spread it around as you go. After you've worked it off in the first pass, repeat for a thorough deglazing. Next is to apply your spirit dye. Since it looks to be blue leather that was used, you'll get a good final black using Feibings Oil Dye. But if you want to use regular Feibings Leather Dye, I don't think it'll matter, just be certain to wipe all of the "dye stuffs" off immediatly after application.

I don't think it matters if the leather is dry or not from the deglazer. I've done it both ways.

Put the boot up to dry with trees in them, and leave it alone for a day or two. Your job will look way better if you keep the trees in them, cedar or plastic won't matter.

After they are completely dry, now one could use "a color coating". Easiest and smoothest is a leather color spray, again found through shoe finders. My advise is to use as little as possible to get an even coat. Even if you choose a flexible brush-on acrylic, less is more with leather.

Again, let it dry completely, and follow with a cream polish (let it dry before buffing), followed by a wax polish. You should be ready to skate your legs off with beautiful black custom boots.

Good luck,

Paul

I appreciate the in depth reply it has a lot of details I would have never thought about.

I am curious though what would be the outcome if I simply removed the coating without doing the steps that follow?

The black that does show (although maybe not visible in the pictures) looks very nice. I ask because I am unsure if I will be able to obtain these things as well as these are my "beater" boots. I want them looking nice and all black but I have a brand new pair with custom colors, I use these for derby and other things... they wont look pretty for long but I want them to at least be all one color they look ratty right now with the junk half peeled off.

Thanks again.

[Leatherimages]

Well, I suppose if you know someone with a soft touch and a sand/bead blaster cabinet.

Or maybe the steel wool pad alone would have some of the effect you might want, I don't know.

Other than that, your guess is as good as mine.

Have fun.

[mkitzis]

Ended up using a watered down acetone, worked okay but needed to be very careful on the edges as it had the glue come right back up, but once dried the glue dried just fine.

[Leatherimages]

I would suggest a conditioner like Obenauf's LP(they're in Boise. Look them up online), at least some Lexol to keep what nourishment may still be in the leather.

Acetone can be very drying.

Paul